Date   

GN Lettering Help

railsnw1 <railsnw@...>
 

Trying to finish up drawing some lettering for GN 50' Automobile Boxcars 43900 to 43999 and I'm having some issues with the paint codes. Can someone provide photos or documents (drawings, letters, etc) explaining the size of lettering and the different codes. From the few clear photos I have found it looks like the suppliers name, date, and shop??? I'm looking for proper type for mid 1950's.

Thanks,

Richard Wilkens


Re: Steam Era Freight Cars Reference Manual, Volume Two: Tank Cars

frograbbit602
 

Mark,

If you can cancel your current order you can call Speedwitch Media or Ted and order the book direct. The number listed in Vol 2: Tank Cars is 203-453-6174. I ordered mine direct when came out and got the book in several days from Ted.

Lester Breuer

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "bnonut" <bnonut@...> wrote:

I copied the text from Teds site. Are these available? I ordered one from Karen's Books and she has not received any.

Thank You,
Mark Morgan


Re: DL&W 53133 40' 1937 boxcar

Tim O'Connor
 

They were not "1937" box cars.

DL&W 53000-53259 were 10'0" IH box cars built by Magor in 1950.
According to my notes all had APEX rb; no info on hand brakes.
All had 8-rung ladders too. DL&W cars with Youngstown doors in
these series (incl 52000-52249, 52500-52999) were 5-6-5 style.
Some (from the 3 series) had Superior doors, don't know which.

From Rich Burg:

"The equipment diagram for [53000-53259] shows the truck side frames to be
a mix of ACF-21359-AE, and Symington-Gould TF5318, with Sym-Gould bolsters.
Three cars had Chrysler high speed trucks (#53004, 53090, 53126). The cars
were built by Magor Car Corp. in Jan-Feb 1950. Ten cars were equipped with
DF loaders and renumbered 84975-84984."

Tim O'Connor

At 3/11/2010 02:38 PM Thursday, you wrote:
John F. Cizmar asked:
"Would anyone know what type of roofwalk and hand brake was supplied by Magor when the DL&W box cars were built? I'd like to upgrade the RTR boxcar I got for Christmas with a Kaydee Apex (if correct)."

Request double checking your car number - 53133 doesn't fit any of the DL&W car series in Ed Hawkins' table of 1937 AAR boxcars on the Steam Era Freight Cars website.
http://www.steamfreightcars.com/prototype/frtcars/1937aarpdfmain.html


Ben Hom


Re: DL&W 53133 40' 1937 boxcar

John F. Cizmar
 

Don,
That's interesting as the ELHS lists in the features of these models as having steel roofwalks.  
John

--- On Thu, 3/11/10, Don Burn <burn@windrvr.com> wrote:


From: Don Burn <burn@windrvr.com>
Subject: RE: [STMFC] DL&W 53133 40' 1937 boxcar
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, March 11, 2010, 1:30 PM


 



You might check out
http://steamfreight cars.com/ prototype/ frtcars/1937aarp dfmain.html since it
lists the 5 orders from the DL&W. According to that document all the roof
walks were wood, and the brake wheel was Ajax except for one order with
Equipco.

Don Burn

-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@yahoogroups. com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of
John F. Cizmar
Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2010 2:25 PM
To: Steam Freight Cars
Subject: [STMFC] DL&W 53133 40' 1937 boxcar

Would anyone know what type of roofwalk and hand brake was supplied by
Magor when the DL&W box cars were built?  I'd like to upgrade the RTR
boxcar I got for Christmas with a Kaydee Apex (if correct).
John F. Cizmar




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------ --------- --------- ------

Yahoo! Groups Links




__________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus
signature database 4936 (20100311) __________

The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

http://www.eset. com
__________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature
database 4936 (20100311) __________

The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

http://www.eset. com












[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: DL&W 53133 40' 1937 boxcar

Benjamin Hom
 

John F. Cizmar asked:
"Would anyone know what type of roofwalk and hand brake was supplied by Magor when the DL&W box cars were built? I'd like to upgrade the RTR boxcar I got for Christmas with a Kaydee Apex (if correct)."

Request double checking your car number - 53133 doesn't fit any of the DL&W car series in Ed Hawkins' table of 1937 AAR boxcars on the Steam Era Freight Cars website.
http://www.steamfreightcars.com/prototype/frtcars/1937aarpdfmain.html


Ben Hom


Re: DL&W 53133 40' 1937 boxcar

Don Burn
 

You might check out
http://steamfreightcars.com/prototype/frtcars/1937aarpdfmain.html since it
lists the 5 orders from the DL&W. According to that document all the roof
walks were wood, and the brake wheel was Ajax except for one order with
Equipco.

Don Burn

-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
John F. Cizmar
Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2010 2:25 PM
To: Steam Freight Cars
Subject: [STMFC] DL&W 53133 40' 1937 boxcar

Would anyone know what type of roofwalk and hand brake was supplied by
Magor when the DL&W box cars were built?  I'd like to upgrade the RTR
boxcar I got for Christmas with a Kaydee Apex (if correct).
John F. Cizmar




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links




__________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus
signature database 4936 (20100311) __________

The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

http://www.eset.com


__________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature
database 4936 (20100311) __________

The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

http://www.eset.com


DL&W 53133 40' 1937 boxcar

John F. Cizmar
 

Would anyone know what type of roofwalk and hand brake was supplied by Magor when the DL&W box cars were built?  I'd like to upgrade the RTR boxcar I got for Christmas with a Kaydee Apex (if correct).
John F. Cizmar


Re: Steam Era Freight Cars Reference Manual, Volume Two: Tank Cars

Benjamin Hom
 

Mark Morgan wrote:
"I copied the text from Teds site. Are these available? I ordered one from Karen's Books and
she has not received any."

I bought my copy two years ago directly from Ted. Why didn't you order directly from him?


Ben Hom


Re: Steam Era Freight Cars Reference Manual, Volume Two: Tank Cars

Don Burn
 

Ted had them in January at the Springfield Show.

Don Burn

-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
bnonut
Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2010 1:40 PM
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [STMFC] Steam Era Freight Cars Reference Manual, Volume Two:
Tank Cars

I copied the text from Teds site. Are these available? I ordered one
from Karen's Books and she has not received any.

Thank You,
Mark Morgan



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links




__________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus
signature database 4935 (20100311) __________

The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

http://www.eset.com


__________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature
database 4936 (20100311) __________

The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

http://www.eset.com


Steam Era Freight Cars Reference Manual, Volume Two: Tank Cars

Mark
 

I copied the text from Teds site. Are these available? I ordered one from Karen's Books and she has not received any.

Thank You,
Mark Morgan


Re: Making Rivets

Tim O'Connor
 

For onesey-twosey rivets, the time honored Athearn donor rivet is
quite fast, easy, and very cheap. The main problem has always been
to obtain a consistent size, and to create a perfectly spaced line
of rivets. That's where Archer shines!

Tim O'Connor

I am also going to experiment though with the, thick-ACC-Gel / upside-down anti-gravity method, for producing a one-or-two-rivet method.

Paul Hillman


Re: Making Rivets

pullmanboss <tgmadden@...>
 

Paul Hillman wrote:

Thanks for all of the replies about rivets & "Archer Rivets".

After my re-perusing the Archer site & their products, I believe I have been convinced of their virtues. My initial surprise was at the cost of the decal sheets, but if their viability is excellent, as stated by the several experienced members of this group, then their cost is acceptable.
They are expensive to make. I've been told they are made using the same technology/equipment the electronics industry uses to apply microdroplets of conductive adhesive for bonding integrated circuits. The rivets are jetted onto the film, not screened on en masse. I don't know whether it's a done by rows, like an ink jet printer, or individually, by traversing the head or substrate. I'm sure it's a fast process, but it's not a mass process.

Tom Madden


Re: Caboose Trucks

michaelashelley <mashelley@...>
 

That is very similar to a circuit I've used to run an Atlas turntable motor using DCC track power. I was later told that the full wave bridge rectifier is not really needed - although I think it's necessary if you ever ran the caboose on regular DC track.

Somone else might want to test the circuit without the rectifier, since it's been a long time since I took Electrical Circuits 2.

Michael A. Shelley

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Sandifer" <steve.sandifer@...> wrote:

I prefer to use plastic trucks with stainless steel wipers purchased from Richmond Controls. They roll better and are easier to electrically isolate. I currently have them on Walthers and Intermountain caboose trucks.
See:
http://ssandifer.com/Lay/Howard/Const/LEDMarker/Index.htm

And thanks to Jim's circuit I have flicker free markers lamps.

----------------------------------------------------------------
J. Stephen (Steve) Sandifer
mailto:steve.sandifer@...
<snip>


Re: Milw stock car

rockroll50401 <cepropst@...>
 

LOL Doug, Yes the cars have been built for some time. Doesn't everyone build their resin kits as they buy them? Other wise you'd end up with a big pile of kits and not enough lifetime to build them....Doesn't the 'bang for your buck' come from building and working them in an ops?
"Buy what you can use and build what you buy"

I have damage claim reports for the Milw in 54-56 with stock cars loaded here in town. But, they were being shipped to Dubuque, I could check the numbers with the ORER.

My motivation for replacing the doors is to help the ops crew distinquish between a load of hogs and a load of cattle by looking at the car instead of their switch list. An aside would be to have them quit bitching : )
Clark Propst


Re: Caboose Trucks

Jim Betz
 

Hi,

The Flicker Free circuit works equally well in either DC or
DCC. It is designed for LEDs but can probably be adapted for
bulbs. You are on your own for that ... I don't use bulbs
any more. Yes, you could add a magnetic reed switch if you
wanted to - if you are interested contact me directly and I
can provide more details. Please include the words "Flicker
Free" in the subject of the email to get prompter answers.

*****

Thanks for the pointers to sources for trucks. And thanks
also for the solutions that do not involve metal trucks. I
may re-visit that line of thinking after I have an example
of the Richmond Controls wipers to look at and evaluate.
- Jim


rivets

AZTECFAN <aztecfan@...>
 

Try Grant Line.
I think PBL the people who made Brass Sn3 had plastic hand rail rivets that had a hole for inserting hand rails.

Jim Sleeth S gauger


Re: Milw stock car

Douglas Harding <dharding@...>
 

Clark do you have evidence of double deck cars going to Deckers? I ask because I am not sure that many of the local stock pens in
the area that served Deckers had facilities for loading the second deck, ie no double chutes. I double deck car may be provided,
but may only have hogs loaded on the lower level if there is no means of loading the upper deck.

As to unloading, Deckers unloaded hogs on a concrete floor that was level with the car floor. It is possible they used portable
ramps to unloaded the upper deck, but the only unloading chute at the hog building at Deckers was for unloading trucks.

But it doesn't matter anyway, because by the time I write this (responding to the digest version) you probably already have the
cars built and are waiting for the delivery of your freight trucks while the paint dries.

Doug Harding
www.iowacentralrr.org


Re: Making Rivets

Paul Hillman
 

Thanks for all of the replies about rivets & "Archer Rivets".

After my re-perusing the Archer site & their products, I believe I have been convinced of their virtues. My initial surprise was at the cost of the decal sheets, but if their viability is excellent, as stated by the several experienced members of this group, then their cost is acceptable. Their application & usage, as shown in the Tom Madden photos, and others, is superb. I think they will indeed work for my intended, needed applications.

However, I'd better, very carefully, measure and determine what spacing and size that I need. I need, really, only a few for my current project. The left-overs, I would hope could be used further down the (rail) road.

I am also going to experiment though with the, thick-ACC-Gel / upside-down anti-gravity method, for producing a one-or-two-rivet method.

Paul Hillman

----- Original Message -----
From: wabash2813<mailto:reporterllc@yahoo.com>
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com<mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2010 1:09 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Making Rivets




If I need to just put down one, two or three small Archer rivets in a spot, I find it difficult to handle, dip and slide the very small decal section with the normal method, so I came up with another one for that:

I put a small puddle of decal set in the location where the spot of rivets are going. (Make sure the other nearby rivets have set.) Then I place the small decal section next to that spot and put some decal set on top of that. I wait a few seconds and finally, I slide the one, two, three rivet film section into position onto the puddle with a small paint brush or pointed tooth pick and let it set. It works for me. This can also come in handy if you accidentally knock just a few rivets off and need to replace them. Note I do not soak that small section in water but only use the decal setting solution.

Incidentally, I use the usual method for applying Archer decals when doing larger strips but do put on the decal set in the home spot first and place the decal strip on top. I may apply more decal set on top of the decal if necessary. Note that some manufacturers provide two strengths of decal set, one for the normal application and one a bit stronger for stubborn applications. I have always used the normal strength version with the Archer rivets. (I use the Micro Scale product.)

The Archer rivets are a great product but my main beef is that little sheet is expensive and he gives you different spacing on the same sheet. So if you need a lot of one spacing, you have to buy more of those expensive sheets. I had to by three of these for one passenger car! My other beef is that if I need to cut and use just one narrow strip of small rivets, that narrow strip is very fragile. If I could get the spacing btw rows for my car, that would let me cut a wider strip with more than one row in it, and that would obviously be less fragile. But they look great and work well for the most part. Looking at them under magnification they are shaped just like the real thing! Perhaps over time he'll provide more of what we need. I understand he is open to using artwork from those that want to contribute their time.

Another alternative is drilling holes in your car sides and adding molded rivets from Tichy. However that seems a bit tedious compared to the decals or using some kind of embossing method.

Victor Baird
Fort Wayne, Indiana


Re: Library of Congress photo page

Tim Meyer
 

Thanks for a lead on the information. I will see if I can find that issue of Mainline Modeler.

Thanks

Tim Meyer

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "al_brown03" <abrown@...> wrote:

Beautiful picture! It appears on the cover of Mainline Modeler, 5/92. The two cars in question are 40' Fowler boxcars: see Koeller, MM 8/92, pp 40-45.

Al Brown, Melbourne, Fla.


--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "fltenwheeler" <floridatenwheeler@> wrote:

Hi Ben


I hope this works http://lcweb2.loc.gov/cgi-bin/query/D?fsaall:94:./temp/~pp_csmn::

Thanks

Tim Meyer

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "benjaminfrank_hom" <b.hom@> wrote:

Tim (no last name) asked:
"I was looking at the Library of Congress photo page and came across pictures of CMO boxcars 32800 and 3233x. What series where they in?"

A pointer to the photo may help narrow things down...


Ben Hom


Re: Pullman War Emergency box car "red"?

Ed Hawkins
 

On Mar 10, 2010, at 3:13 PM, blindog@mindspring.com wrote:

A friend asked if I had any idea what shade of "boxcar red" the CofG's
and the West Point's War Emergency boxcars were painted. Hard to tell
from b&w pics, you know....
I'm wondering if, given that they were all built at Bessemer at about
the same time, if they were all the same shade?
Scott Chatfield
Scott,
"Pullman War Emergency box car red??" Pullman-Standard painted freight
cars with the same paints that were available to the industry as any
other builder. These included Sherwin-Williams, Glidden, DuPont,
Pittsburgh, C.R. Long, and others.

In Pat Wider's extensive article in RP CYC Vol. 19 on emergency box
cars, the paint specs are provided for all of the emergency box cars
built at Bessemer. The data came from original Pullman bills of
materials. We know are the names of the paints, but no paint samples
were taken.

For CoG emergency box cars built by AC&F (41000-41099), there's a paint
sample in the ACF bill of materials at the St. Louis Mercantile
Library. The sides were painted with PPG Carhide Synthetic paint, a
medium red-brown shade with a very flat appearance. Two other series of
CofG box cars built by ACF later in 1944 (40' and 50' all-steel cars
with 10' door openings) also used Pittsburgh Carhide paint, but they
were medium red-brown or oxide red with a gloss. When looking at all
three paint samples side by side, they were all different even though
they were all painted with Pittsburgh paint over the course of 9 months
in 1944.
Regards,
Ed Hawkins

99061 - 99080 of 187879