Re: GA 8018 in Shorpy photo
Frank Greene
rwitt_2000 wrote:
--- In STMFC@..., "benjaminfrank_hom" <b.hom@...> wrote: Thanks, gentlemen. A discussion about early plug doors at message 32975, 7/28/2004, indicates the door hardware on GA 8018 is similar to the PRR XL cars, just reversed to open to the right. Wonder of wonders, Yahoo search is actually working today. Get 'em while you can boys! -- Frank Greene Memphis, TN
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Re: Weathering Chalk
Hi,
I've been using chalks for weathering for over 20 years now. It's not the only weathering I do but very few cars go to the layout without some chalk on them. At first I applied the chalks dry and over sprayed them to lock them in place. That works - but you have to first learn how much chalk to apply because the over spray with dull coat changes them - and the change depends upon the combination of the color(s) of the car and the color of the chalk. Dry chalks will show finger prints and also come off over time. Over spraying is necessary. I use a "wet chalk slurry" now. Almost always. I take some chalk and scrape it to a powder into a small plastic container (I prefer to use a model RR wheelset package cover). Then I add water and a few drops of white glue (I use Krystal Klear for this) and the smallest amount of kitchen detergent I can put on the end of a toothpick (as a wetting agent). I mix different colors of chalk (mostly "earth tones") until I get the 'shade' I want (today). The white glue acts as a binder - I use/prefer KK simply because it mixes in with the water so much easier. I apply the slurry to the model using an eye dropper and let it flow ... and collect. Working just one 'face' of the model at a time and letting them dry before changing faces. I have been known to 'hurry' the drying process by using small pieces of tissue and 'wicking/drawing off' the excess (just touch the corner of a 1/2" square of tissue to the edge of the puddle). With this process I do not 'need' to over spray and can pretty much see what it will look like ... when the slurry has evaporated out. If I have an un-prototypical clump of chalk some where I just "rub it out" with my finger (after it is fully dry!) ... always moving my finger in the 'down' direction of the model. There is -no- other weathering technique I like as well for getting those clumps/concentrations of 'stuff' in the corners and hollows. I especially like wet chalks on the roofs of steam era freight cars. For the sides of the models I tend to use washes of very thin weathering colors more these days. That said - I also almost always do some weathering of stuff like grabs and ladders by hand with a brush. And also almost always do some washes (either acrylic or lacquer - which have -very- different 'action' on the model!). I always like to finish a model by over spraying what I call a "blending coat" of weathering colors (darker on top, lighter on the bottom). It de-emphasizes the individual techniques (hand brush, chalk slurry, washes) and makes them 'work' (for me). The last thing I do is almost always some kind of dull coat ... if the model needs it. "No shiny new paint jobs on -MY- freight cars!" YMMV. - Jim
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Re: Freight Conductors' Train Book available online
Jim Pickett
I think Styron is a kind of plastic or maybe a plastics manufacturer. Or perhaps William Styron was cheap and travelled by freight train to save money.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Jim Pickett
--- On Mon, 3/29/10, gary roe <wabashrr@...> wrote:
From: gary roe <wabashrr@...> Subject: [STMFC] Re: Freight Conductors' Train Book available online To: STMFC@... Date: Monday, March 29, 2010, 8:27 AM --- In STMFC@yahoogroups. com, "laramielarry" <larryostresh@ ...> wrote: I started looking at these records this AM and already have a question. The very first train has 2 car loads of "styron". A check of the internet tells me he is "a writer born in 1925"; but for some reason, I doubt that's what's in these cars. A check of the rest of the records in the Excel file brought up no more loads of this type. Could someone tell me what "styron" is? gary roe quincy, illinois [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Re: Weathering Chalk
Frederick Freitas <prrinvt@...>
GUYZ,
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You can use cheap cosmetic colors from the ladies section if you like. I've used up the set my daughter had with good results. Some colors are very useful for streaking, or, staining on covered hoppers. Let them dry for a couple days, then hit them with a dull finish to seal them. Big box stores carry these sets, and are very cheap. Fred Freitas
--- On Mon, 3/29/10, Thomas Baker <bakert@...> wrote:
From: Thomas Baker <bakert@...> Subject: RE: [STMFC] Weathering Chalk To: "STMFC@..." <STMFC@...> Date: Monday, March 29, 2010, 6:10 AM The question about using inexpensive ladies makeup, eye shadow, rouge, I don't know exactly what--has been something I've wondered about, too. Perhaps someone out there has experience with this. I have used weathering chalks and find them very satisfactory, but I add that component after the flat spray. I rub whatever hue or combination of hues is desired, and it seems to stay without further spraying. I am not sure whether the chalks are oil-based. I obtained mine from a local art store. Tom
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Re: Weathering Chalk
Jack Burgess
I've used pastel chalks (oil-based) for decades and never over-spray them
with Dullcote. However, I do my initial weathering with an airbrush, some (such as sun-fading) when I initially air brush the model and the rest after the decals have been applied and the car has been given a flat spray. I use the pastels to provide additional color variations on the wheelsets and trucks, on brake parts, and on other small details that I want to "pop" out from the rest of the car. You can also use chalks to occasionally to replicate lettering which has dissolved and starting to stain the side of the car. I don't find a need to seal the car after applying this final weathering since I don't handle my cars nor let anyone else do it and it is limited to fine details. But, remember that most of the weathering (that which would be most susceptible to handling) is done with an air brush. A quick search on Amazon brought up a set of 36 Pentel oil-based chalks (the same manufacturer of the set I use) which includes black, grey, white, yellow, and rust (along with many others)...all the basic colors you need for $10. Those chalks will give you and a friend enough chalk to last a lifetime. I use a piece of sheet-rock metal sandpaper and scrape the chalks onto it to create a pile of powder, saving each color of powder in a small plastic 6-compartment storage box. Bragdon Enterprises (www.bragdonent.com) sells some non-pastel materials which a lot of modelers like. I have some but they are more expensive and I like the fine control of the pastels better. But they might not be as susceptible to coming off while handling. Jack Burgess www.yosemitevalleyrr.com
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Re: Westerfield AC&F Builder's Photos and Lot List Question
Dennis Storzek
--- In STMFC@..., Thomas Baker <bakert@...> wrote:
...I understand that the SOO LINEWhich articles are these? I should have them someplace, but... From what I recall, they are less than useful for modeling. There have been several articles about the Soo car fleet published over the years by the late Guy N. Keichefer (sp?). These are mostly a statistical analysis of the car fleet, using the totals of car types from various years ORERs. In one of the articles, Guy attempted to sort out the different details of the various groups of "sawtooth" boxcars and assign them a "type" code. This has fallen into disuse (if it was ever used at all) because more recently full builder and lot number information has come available that does a better job of explaining what is what than Guy's system. Guy's work was useful at the time it was published, but has subsequently been superseded by better information. None of the articles had darwings beyond the typical sketches found on equipment diagrams. There are now drawings of almost all the different groups of cars. Some have been prepared from my field work and are awaiting publication, while others are the original Haskel & Barker drawings available from the Pullman Library of the Illinois Railway Museum. Why don't you take a look at the info I posted in the files area of the STMFPH list at: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/STMFPH/files/Soo_%22Sawtooth%22_Primer/ Let me know (either on list or off) which group of cars you are interested in, and I will direct you to where drawings can be obtained. Dennis
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Re: 1:1 resin casting
Jim King
It's just a natural progression of Jim's age. First HO, then O, now 1:1.
His eyes are finally going... :) Either that or he forgot to renew his support for SolidWorks... Jim, nice work. Mike Turner Simpsonville, SC 29681 Hey, Mikey: I just need reading glasses, so the eyes are still holding out J. I’ve made 1:1 parts on a few occasions and, of course, have been producing industrial castings for several years. The Lawndale project was a natural for some non-load bearing replicas. About ¼ the price of what metal castings would have cost. All of the parts have been installed and unless I tell you which ones are “fake”, you’d never know. Jim King Smoky Mountain Model Works, Inc. Ph. (828) 777-5619 <www.smokymountainmodelworks.com> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Central Ohio Prototype Modeler Meet Reminder
Benjamin Hom
Forwarded from Eric Hansmann (eric@...):
-------------- Forwarded Message: -------------- Time is ticking away on the low hotel rate for the Central Ohio Prototype Modelers Meet in Marion, Ohio, April 22 through 24. The $55.00 per night Comfort Inn rate will expire on March 31st. Finalize your plans now to attend. Event details can be reviewed on the website: http://www.hansmanns.org/meet/ Registration is only $20. A portion of the registrations will be donated to the Marion Union Station Association to assist with upkeep of this historic depot. Click on the registration link at the web site to print out your form. Marion is a major point where busy CSX and Norfolk Southern lines cross. Lots of prototype action outside and a wide range of prototype models and presentations inside at the Central Ohio Prototype Modelers Meet, April 22 to 24 in Marion, Ohio. Feel free to email Denis Blake or Eric Hansmann with any questions: dblake7@... eric@... Eric Hansmann Chagrin Falls, Ohio Event Publicity Assistant
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Re: Freight Conductors' Train Book available online
Gary Roe
--- In STMFC@..., "laramielarry" <larryostresh@...> wrote:
I started looking at these records this AM and already have a question. The very first train has 2 car loads of "styron". A check of the internet tells me he is "a writer born in 1925"; but for some reason, I doubt that's what's in these cars. A check of the rest of the records in the Excel file brought up no more loads of this type. Could someone tell me what "styron" is? gary roe quincy, illinois
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Re: Weathering Chalk
Charles Hladik
Chris,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Myself and many others are having great success with Bragdon weathering powders. I believe that the rust colors (3) are actually powdered rust, anyway they all adhere nicely and there is a good array of colors. See _www.bragdonent.com_ (http://www.bragdonent.com) Chuck Hladik
In a message dated 3/29/2010 5:02:24 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
chris_hillman@... writes: Just a quick question about chalks for weathering. What is available for weathering-chalks that don't disappear after a flat-spray, final cover? I use chalks, but, just trying to perfect the methods. I've heard the latest theories; A - Flat spray the car. B - "Over-weather" using oil-based chalks. (Work in heavily) C - Final flat-spray. (Expect to lose some color intensity) My local hobby-shop "guru" told me about buying, oil-based, ladies eye-make-up at the local "Dollar Store" for 2 dollars instead of the (same) high-priced, "commercial stuff". The set he had was all earth-tones. (Good, economic idea???) Not trying to diminish the modeling-suppliers. If their stuff is best, then I'll use it. (Pricy though) Thanks, Paul Hillman [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Re: Weathering Chalk
Thomas Baker
The question about using inexpensive ladies makeup, eye shadow, rouge, I don't know exactly what--has been something I've wondered about, too. Perhaps someone out there has experience with this.
I have used weathering chalks and find them very satisfactory, but I add that component after the flat spray. I rub whatever hue or combination of hues is desired, and it seems to stay without further spraying. I am not sure whether the chalks are oil-based. I obtained mine from a local art store. Tom
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Weathering Chalk
Paul Hillman
Just a quick question about chalks for weathering.
What is available for weathering-chalks that don't disappear after a flat-spray, final cover? I use chalks, but, just trying to perfect the methods. I've heard the latest theories; A - Flat spray the car. B - "Over-weather" using oil-based chalks. (Work in heavily) C - Final flat-spray. (Expect to lose some color intensity) My local hobby-shop "guru" told me about buying, oil-based, ladies eye-make-up at the local "Dollar Store" for 2 dollars instead of the (same) high-priced, "commercial stuff". The set he had was all earth-tones. (Good, economic idea???) Not trying to diminish the modeling-suppliers. If their stuff is best, then I'll use it. (Pricy though) Thanks, Paul Hillman
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Central Ohio Prototype Modeler Meet
seaboard_1966
Folks, we are approaching the last few days for folks to make their reservations at the Comfort Inn for the first ever Central Ohio Prototype Modelers Meet to be held April 22-24 at Marion Union Station. We have an regularly updated website for those interested in our meet. Please check it out at http://www.hansmanns.org/meet/index.htm
Denis Blake Meet Organizer Central Ohio Prototype Modelers Meet
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FW: two rail O scale train show
Location: Strasburg PA Fire Company
203 W. Franklin St. Strasburg PA 17579 Saturday, April 10, 2010 Time 9:am to 1 pm Admission $5. Wives and children under 17 free Active military with ID FREE Amish Style Cooking http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q <http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=203+west+franklin+street,+ strasburg,+pa&sll=37.0625,-95.677068&sspn=53.300127,113.90625&ie=UTF8&t=h&z= 17> &hl=en&geocode=&q=203+west+franklin+street,+strasburg,+pa&sll=37.0625,-95.67 7068&sspn=53.300127,113.90625&ie=UTF8&t=h&z=17 Table Holders will have a full table of merchandise until 1:00PM no early packing is allowed Table holders listed below; John Dunn George Eshbach Joe Foehrkolb - Baldwin Forge Joe Giannovario - O Scale Trains Karl Geffchman - V&W Hobbies Bob Heil - Sunset / Golden Gate Models Bob Jones Jim Kerner Paul Kopp Allen Landis Bob / Karen Lavezzi Tom Mapes Don McFall - Old Line Graphics Jack Mc Garry = Allegheny Scale Models Roger Pasquale Bill Pierson Mike Rahilly - Just 2 Rails Stan Richmond - Car Works Brian Scace Tom Shore Jim Sycks Attalee Taylor Michael Williams Rich Yoder - RY Models Art Selby Jim Hawk John Hall - Estate of Raymond Hall Beth Marshal Public Delivery Track George Peckman John Blanda Chris Crane Drew McCann - Cherry Valley Model Railroad Club Marvin Nicholson William Truscott Walter Maier Bernie Duerr Tom Thorp - Custom Bench Work White Elephant table SHOW PROMOTERS John Dunn 609-432-2871 Rich Yoder 484-256-4068 Visit our website www.scaletworail.com
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Re: GA 8018 in Shorpy photo
rwitt_2000
--- In STMFC@..., "benjaminfrank_hom" <b.hom@...> wrote:
In the second photo in this group of four there is a PRR Class XL with its Wagner door; and of course opening to the left. http://hdl.loc.gov/loc.pnp/hec.10147 Bob Witt
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Re: Fw: [BRPRy] BR & P boxcar #3656
rwitt_2000
These links worked better for me.
U.S. CAPITOL. DOME FROM RAILROAD YARDS IN SOUTHEAST SECTION digital file from original negative http://hdl.loc.gov/loc.pnp/hec.10146 http://hdl.loc.gov/loc.pnp/hec.10147 http://hdl.loc.gov/loc.pnp/hec.10148 http://hdl.loc.gov/loc.pnp/hec.10149 Also these images appear to show just how "team tracks" were use in this period. Notice in the last image a worker is unloading lumber from the FEC boxcar. Bob Witt Indianapolis, Indiana --- In STMFC@..., "Claus Schlund \(HGM\)" <claus@...> wrote: approximately the same time and place. Multiple views of some of the details can be seen.http://www.loc.gov/pictures/item/hec2008007159/?sid=60600cde11707c1a59c4\; 98a05bcf3def http://www.loc.gov/pictures/item/hec2008007160/?sid=60600cde11707c1a59c4\; 98a05bcf3def http://www.loc.gov/pictures/item/hec2008007161/?sid=60600cde11707c1a59c4\; 98a05bcf3def http://www.loc.gov/pictures/item/hec2008007162/?sid=60600cde11707c1a59c4\; 98a05bcf3def
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Re: GA 8018 in Shorpy photo
Benjamin Hom
Frank Greene asked:
"The next car behind BR&P 3656 is GA 8018. What type door is that? Plug?" http://www.shorpy.com/node/7941?size=_original That's a Wagner door, the same type as the ones on the PRR Class XL boxcars. Ben Hom
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GA 8018 in Shorpy photo
Frank Greene
joel norman wrote:
There is an good view of one side and the roof of boxcar #3656 inThe next car behind BR&P 3656 is GA 8018. What type door is that? Plug? -- Frank Greene Memphis, TN
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Re: N&W Movie
Rob M.
Even though the opening credits don't say so, the N&W movie appears to have many similarities with Roger Wade Productions railroad promo films of the 40's and 50's.
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The theme of following a car of freight is the same as the 1948 CNJ promotional film, "The BIG little Railroad". The CNJ video doesn't include any shop footage, but has a goodly amount if in-cab videos (along with the same theme of maintenance and some "office" footage. The stock music in the N&W film from the 50's contains some of the same stock music as in the CNJ film. I know I've heard the same stock music on another RR video, possibly off of Prelinger IIRC. Like the N&W film, the CNJ film has many run-buys and is filled with good freight car shots in classic schemes, including quite a few Canadian cars on-line with the CNJ as well as a good number of non-east-coast roads. Rob Mondichak
--- In STMFC@..., Mark Morgan <bnonut@...> wrote:
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web site
Al and Patricia Westerfield <westerfield@...>
Just a warning. Apparently the catalog program I have used for years is shut down. As a result the market basket cannot send an email to me with the order attached. If you have ordered something in the last week or are planning to order, please order in one of 3 ways: mail, phone or attach the order to a regular email. I'm trying to work around the problem but may have to create an entirely new web site. - Al Westerfield
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