Date   

Re: Squadron Putty & Resin Kits

Kurt Laughlin <fleeta@...>
 

To thin or keep soft Squadron and other similar putties, use Testor's Liquid Cement. The thinner it is, the more it shrinks, though.

I agree with the others that resin is best filled with thick (gap-flling) superglue. Accellerator helps the process. You must sand it soon after it dries, however, because overnight it will become harder than the resin (bad for sanding).

Large areas (1/8 inch diameter or more) are best filled with some epoxy putty. The hardware store stuff is fine.

For pinholes, use a Gunze Sangyo product, "Mr. Surfacer 500". It is like a very thick paint but dries hard and wet sands easily.

A key to puttying models: Spend your time dry-fitting and trimming the pices before gluing them rather than sanding filler afterwards. Also, only use the minimum amount of filler. Minimum filler addition = minimum filler removal = minimum detail lost.

Don't bother with a gray primer (or any primer at all) - it just hides detail. If you want to check for defects, paint it your final color. Inspect, sand, fill, and sand as needed, then wash it clean and paint the final coats. It's always worked as good as anything else for me.

KL

----- Original Message -----
From: behillman

I tried filling some holes, etc. with "Squadron Putty" on some F&C resin kit parts and it didn't stick good at all; broke out of the holes very easily after a several day drying time. Any one with ideas about how to use it on resin? Apparently the two don't like to adhere well.

Also, when trying to apply small amounts of "Squadron Putty" it dries very quickly on the surface and doesn't allow you to spread it around easily. It's base is "Toluene". Anyone try to, say, mix it with some more toluene, maybe, or another solvent, to extend it's work-ability?


Re: Squadron Putty & Resin Kits

Paul Hillman
 

Jack, and all,

Bondo "Glazing & Spot Putty" might be a better material. I have some from working on my vehicle paint jobs I'm doing also. I think it has a longer work-time and sticks to about anything which is cleaned well. Nice call!

The holes I'm having to fill are, yes, mistakes I made in drilling some counter-sunk holes for screws in the wrong places, to make a car-floor removable. They're like 1/16" dia. in 1/16" material and counter-sunk. There are also some casting-flaws in the car body that need filling & filing.

Let's see how the old "Bondo trick" comes through.

Thanks, Paul Hillman

----- Original Message -----
From: Jack Burgess<mailto:jack@yosemitevalleyrr.com>
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com<mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2010 2:02 PM
Subject: RE: [STMFC] Squadron Putty & Resin Kits



<I tried filling some holes, etc. with "Squadron Putty" on some F&C resin
<kit parts and it didn't stick good at all; broke out of the holes very
<easily after a several day drying time. Any one with ideas about how to
<use it on resin? Apparently the two don't like to adhere well.
<
<Also, when trying to apply small amounts of "Squadron Putty" it dries
<very quickly on the surface and doesn't allow you to spread it around
<easily. It's base is "Toluene". Anyone try to, say, mix it with some
<more toluene, maybe, or another solvent, to extend it's work-ability?
<
<Thanks, Paul Hillman

I've been using Bondo Glazing & Spot Putty for styrene and possibly resin
too. I know I haven't problems using is on styrene and don't recall any
problems with resin. It is available at auto parts stores.

Jack Burgess
www.yosemitevalleyrr.com


Re: Rivet size for Sunshine SAL B7 round top box car roof

Bill McCoy
 

John and Frank,

Thanks. That's just what I needed.

Bill McCoy
Jax

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, FRANK PEACOCK <frank3112@...> wrote:


Bill, I would go with the 5/8 rivets. The typical side rivets (rivet heads of course) are about 11/16 and 5/8 is close to that. Of course it might be a good plan to match the size on the kit, which are probably oversize. FHP (Frank H. Peacock)

To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
From: wpmccoy@...
Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2010 18:35:15 +0000
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Rivet size for Sunshine SAL B7 round top box car roof




























Prototype rivet size was the question. I worded it badly. Thanks.



Bill McCoy



--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@> wrote:

Bill, surely you can do simple arithmetic? -- divide 5/8 by 87.1 and
7/8 by 87.1. You'll find the Archer rivets are less than 1/2 the size
of the Tichy rivets, so either size is going to look better. Which one
is exactly right for your prototype can only be known from a blueprint
or other primary source.
Tim O'Connor
I'm building my Sunshine SAL B7 round roof box car. The roof casting ends were concave and had to be sanded square with loss of the roof end rivet detail. I tried Tichy 8017 .020" rivets but I can't get the spacing exactly even. Archer lists 2 size of rivets, 5/8" and 7/8". Which is right for the rivets that attach the car roof to the car ends and sides?
Thanks.
Bill McCoy
Jax, FL




















Re: Squadron Putty & Resin Kits

Bill Welch
 

Usually when I have to repair a hole, it is because of a mistake I have made either measuring or drilling or both. I like using styrene rod for these kinds of situations. Once I have determined what size rod need, which sometimes means enlarging the hole slightly, I flood it with Testors liquid on the surface and the underside and may do this several times, melting the styrene into hole. Sometime I will apply some ACC on the reverse side and will then use a sharp chisel blade to trim the rod on the visible side. Generally the repair is invisible.

BTW, in a packet of rod, I have noticed there is some variation in the size of the rod, so trying a few different piece of rod will likely yield a fit when you get close. Also, the rod is not always the same end to end.

This can be done almost more quickly than it takes time to talk about.

Bill Welch

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "behillman" <chris_hillman@...> wrote:

I tried filling some holes, etc. with "Squadron Putty" on some F&C resin kit parts and it didn't stick good at all; broke out of the holes very easily after a several day drying time. Any one with ideas about how to use it on resin? Apparently the two don't like to adhere well.

Also, when trying to apply small amounts of "Squadron Putty" it dries very quickly on the surface and doesn't allow you to spread it around easily. It's base is "Toluene". Anyone try to, say, mix it with some more toluene, maybe, or another solvent, to extend it's work-ability?

Thanks, Paul Hillman


Re: Squadron Putty & Resin Kits

Tim O'Connor
 

Paul, if the holes are small, I use thin CA. It's easy to work with,
easy to sop up any excess and it dries hard and smooth. I sometimes use
it as a "wash" over top of putty since putty doesn't have a perfectly
smooth finish. For big holes, I'd use a base layer of slow drying epoxy
and then backfill with CA.

Tim O'Connor

I tried filling some holes, etc. with "Squadron Putty" on some F&C resin kit parts and it didn't stick good at all; broke out of the holes very easily after a several day drying time. Any one with ideas about how to use it on resin? Apparently the two don't like to adhere well.

Also, when trying to apply small amounts of "Squadron Putty" it dries very quickly on the surface and doesn't allow you to spread it around easily. It's base is "Toluene". Anyone try to, say, mix it with some more toluene, maybe, or another solvent, to extend it's work-ability?

Thanks, Paul Hillman


Re: Rivet size for Sunshine SAL B7 round top box car roof

FRANK PEACOCK
 

Bill, I would go with the 5/8 rivets. The typical side rivets (rivet heads of course) are about 11/16 and 5/8 is close to that. Of course it might be a good plan to match the size on the kit, which are probably oversize. FHP (Frank H. Peacock)

To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
From: wpmccoy@comcast.net
Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2010 18:35:15 +0000
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Rivet size for Sunshine SAL B7 round top box car roof




























Prototype rivet size was the question. I worded it badly. Thanks.



Bill McCoy



--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...> wrote:

Bill, surely you can do simple arithmetic? -- divide 5/8 by 87.1 and
7/8 by 87.1. You'll find the Archer rivets are less than 1/2 the size
of the Tichy rivets, so either size is going to look better. Which one
is exactly right for your prototype can only be known from a blueprint
or other primary source.
Tim O'Connor
I'm building my Sunshine SAL B7 round roof box car. The roof casting ends were concave and had to be sanded square with loss of the roof end rivet detail. I tried Tichy 8017 .020" rivets but I can't get the spacing exactly even. Archer lists 2 size of rivets, 5/8" and 7/8". Which is right for the rivets that attach the car roof to the car ends and sides?
Thanks.
Bill McCoy
Jax, FL


















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: ADMIN: Replies OFF LIST, GR&I class OC Ballast cars

cinderandeight@...
 

Mike,
I have a full set of the early readers we all grew to love (?), "Fun
with Dick and Jane", "One Cherry Street" etc. if you need a loaner.
Does anyone know of, or have a decent photo of GR&I #2675, class GW
(OC) Rodgers dump cars (1897), built by Wells and French in Chicago? There
was one in Railroad Gazette in 1897, but all I have is a photocopy. (R.G.
June 18, 1897 P. 433)
Just to keep this message legal, I don't like rats.
Rich Burg


Re: Squadron Putty & Resin Kits

Jack Burgess
 

<I tried filling some holes, etc. with "Squadron Putty" on some F&C resin
<kit parts and it didn't stick good at all; broke out of the holes very
<easily after a several day drying time. Any one with ideas about how to
<use it on resin? Apparently the two don't like to adhere well.
<
<Also, when trying to apply small amounts of "Squadron Putty" it dries
<very quickly on the surface and doesn't allow you to spread it around
<easily. It's base is "Toluene". Anyone try to, say, mix it with some
<more toluene, maybe, or another solvent, to extend it's work-ability?
<
<Thanks, Paul Hillman

I've been using Bondo Glazing & Spot Putty for styrene and possibly resin
too. I know I haven't problems using is on styrene and don't recall any
problems with resin. It is available at auto parts stores.


Jack Burgess
www.yosemitevalleyrr.com


Re: Rivet size for Sunshine SAL B7 round top box car roof

John Degnan <Scaler164@...>
 

Jim King of Smoky Mountain Model Works should be able to answer this since he has my copy of the original PULLMAN drawings for this car (for the purpose of producing an accurate kit of it in the near future (in HO and S scales)).


John Degnan
Scaler164@comcast.net

----- Original Message -----
From: Bill
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2010 02:09 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Rivet size for Sunshine SAL B7 round top box car roof


I'm building my Sunshine SAL B7 round roof box car. The roof casting ends were concave and had to be sanded square with loss of the roof end rivet detail. I tried Tichy 8017 .020" rivets but I can't get the spacing exactly even. Archer lists 2 size of rivets, 5/8" and 7/8". Which is right for the rivets that attach the car roof to the car ends and sides?

Thanks.

Bill McCoy
Jax, FL



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Squadron Putty & Resin Kits

Paul Hillman
 

I tried filling some holes, etc. with "Squadron Putty" on some F&C resin kit parts and it didn't stick good at all; broke out of the holes very easily after a several day drying time. Any one with ideas about how to use it on resin? Apparently the two don't like to adhere well.

Also, when trying to apply small amounts of "Squadron Putty" it dries very quickly on the surface and doesn't allow you to spread it around easily. It's base is "Toluene". Anyone try to, say, mix it with some more toluene, maybe, or another solvent, to extend it's work-ability?

Thanks, Paul Hillman


Re: Rivet size for Sunshine SAL B7 round top box car roof

Bill McCoy
 

Prototype rivet size was the question. I worded it badly. Thanks.

Bill McCoy

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...> wrote:


Bill, surely you can do simple arithmetic? -- divide 5/8 by 87.1 and
7/8 by 87.1. You'll find the Archer rivets are less than 1/2 the size
of the Tichy rivets, so either size is going to look better. Which one
is exactly right for your prototype can only be known from a blueprint
or other primary source.

Tim O'Connor

I'm building my Sunshine SAL B7 round roof box car. The roof casting ends were concave and had to be sanded square with loss of the roof end rivet detail. I tried Tichy 8017 .020" rivets but I can't get the spacing exactly even. Archer lists 2 size of rivets, 5/8" and 7/8". Which is right for the rivets that attach the car roof to the car ends and sides?
Thanks.
Bill McCoy
Jax, FL


Re: Rivet size for Sunshine SAL B7 round top box car roof

Bill McCoy
 

Prototype rivet size was the question. I worded it badly. Thanks.

Bill McCoy

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...> wrote:


Bill, surely you can do simple arithmetic? -- divide 5/8 by 87.1 and
7/8 by 87.1. You'll find the Archer rivets are less than 1/2 the size
of the Tichy rivets, so either size is going to look better. Which one
is exactly right for your prototype can only be known from a blueprint
or other primary source.

Tim O'Connor

I'm building my Sunshine SAL B7 round roof box car. The roof casting ends were concave and had to be sanded square with loss of the roof end rivet detail. I tried Tichy 8017 .020" rivets but I can't get the spacing exactly even. Archer lists 2 size of rivets, 5/8" and 7/8". Which is right for the rivets that attach the car roof to the car ends and sides?
Thanks.
Bill McCoy
Jax, FL


Re: Rivet size for Sunshine SAL B7 round top box car roof

Tim O'Connor
 

Bill, surely you can do simple arithmetic? -- divide 5/8 by 87.1 and
7/8 by 87.1. You'll find the Archer rivets are less than 1/2 the size
of the Tichy rivets, so either size is going to look better. Which one
is exactly right for your prototype can only be known from a blueprint
or other primary source.

Tim O'Connor

I'm building my Sunshine SAL B7 round roof box car. The roof casting ends were concave and had to be sanded square with loss of the roof end rivet detail. I tried Tichy 8017 .020" rivets but I can't get the spacing exactly even. Archer lists 2 size of rivets, 5/8" and 7/8". Which is right for the rivets that attach the car roof to the car ends and sides?
Thanks.
Bill McCoy
Jax, FL


Re: Brass Reefer Hatch Latch

Tim O'Connor
 

Tichy makes the nicest HO latches, in plastic. They are thin but
not as brittle as the resin latches, and they are better detailed.
I think Sunshine made some etched stainless steel latches, but
they have no relief detail.

Tim O'Connor

At 8/29/2010 02:03 PM Sunday, you wrote:
Why not use Grandt plastic ones? They can be sanded (thinned) more easily than brass. I just used a set to replace the moulded on ones on an IM R40-10 to do an ART clone. <http://home.comcast.net/~jerryglow/modeling/ART_steel_reefers.html>

Jerry Glow

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "buygonet" <buygone@...> wrote:

Does anybody know or have a source for reefer hatch latches, the resin ones that come with Sunshine kits are quite fragile and I would like to use brass ones. Thanks

Paul C. Koehler


Rivet size for Sunshine SAL B7 round top box car roof

Bill McCoy
 

I'm building my Sunshine SAL B7 round roof box car. The roof casting ends were concave and had to be sanded square with loss of the roof end rivet detail. I tried Tichy 8017 .020" rivets but I can't get the spacing exactly even. Archer lists 2 size of rivets, 5/8" and 7/8". Which is right for the rivets that attach the car roof to the car ends and sides?

Thanks.

Bill McCoy
Jax, FL


Re: Brass Reefer Hatch Latch

jerryglow2
 

Why not use Grandt plastic ones? They can be sanded (thinned) more easily than brass. I just used a set to replace the moulded on ones on an IM R40-10 to do an ART clone. <http://home.comcast.net/~jerryglow/modeling/ART_steel_reefers.html>

Jerry Glow

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "buygonet" <buygone@...> wrote:

Does anybody know or have a source for reefer hatch latches, the resin ones that come with Sunshine kits are quite fragile and I would like to use brass ones. Thanks

Paul C. Koehler


Brass Reefer Hatch Latch

buygonet <buygone@...>
 

Does anybody know or have a source for reefer hatch latches, the resin ones that come with Sunshine kits are quite fragile and I would like to use brass ones. Thanks

Paul C. Koehler


Re: Reefers With End Doors?

rwitt_2000
 

Adrian Hundhausen wrote:

Follow this link to the 1895 St. Charles Car Co. catalog, then scroll
down to the ETV&G 34' Riordan Patent reefer with end doors:
http://www.win.org/library/services/lhgen/SCcarco/CarCo3.htm
<http://www.win.org/library/services/lhgen/SCcarco/CarCo3.htm>

I was curious about this reefer so a Goggle search on the "Riordan
Patent" yielded the following. I didn't find a link to the
appropriate patent. This appears to one of what is hundreds of patents
received for designs of pre-1900 refrigerator cars.



A small resin manufacturer, Silver Crash Car Works, makes a kit in HO
scale for these reefers.




http://www.silvercrashcarworks.com/34footsideladderreefer.html




From a post on the BRHS list:
http://209.242.54.70/archives/BRHSLIST/2009-11/msg00096.html




"The words "Riordan Patent" over the door on the photo lead to the
major remaining puzzle about this prototype and, in turn, to one of the
more interesting aspects of the model. Some of the refrigerator cars
marked Riordan Patent had a pair of tall and narrow doors on their ends.
These doors could be opened to provide ventilation for the lading. A
photo of ETV&G car #12088 on page 67 of "PFE - PACIFIC FRUIT EXPRESS" by
Thompson, Church and Jones shows a good view of these doors."



This reefer may pre-date this list, but there appears to be an Early
Rail Group List that discusses cars built before 1900.



Needless to state that I have no commercial relationship with Silver
Crash car Works.




Bob Witt


Re: ADMIN: Replies OFF LIST

Frederick Freitas <prrinvt@...>
 

Mike,
 
From the sounds of it you may need the old McGuffy Reader for the inmates to begin lessons. Creative writting acn wait for a while.
 
Fred Freitas

--- On Sun, 8/29/10, mike brock <brockm@brevard.net> wrote:


From: mike brock <brockm@brevard.net>
Subject: [STMFC] ADMIN: Replies OFF LIST
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, August 29, 2010, 10:37 AM


 



Richard Hendrickson writes:

If you
are interested in either list (or both), e-mail me OFF LIST at
<rhendrickson@opendoor.com> . Please DO NOT respond directly to this
message, thus cluttering up the STMFC list; contact me directly at
the address above.
It is difficult for me to imagine a more clearly written statement that
replies should be OFF LIST. Richard say to NOT respond directly to his
message. Gary Ray immediately responds directly to Richard's message, to the
list...the STMFC. To paraphrase Lincoln, You can expect some of the people
some of the time to read and follow directions but you cannot expect ALL of
the people ALL of the time to do so. Perhaps that's because ALL of the
people simply cannot read. More than likely, it is because some don't
understand what it means to reply OFF LIST. Therefore...before I escort Gary
to Moderate Jail...I hate to go down there this time of year...the rats, you
know...and the cries for mercy...I'll try to explain. When someone says to
reply OFF LIST it means to replace the "TO" address of the STMFC with the
individual's address that sent the message. One would think this would be
obvious but I guess not.

So...anyhow, down to Moderate Jail. Lets see...I guess we'll put Gary in
with the other moro...uh...inmates that cannot read. Hmmm. Now, where did I
put that First Grade Reader book that I promised to bring with me on my last
visit...oh yes, here it is. One can always hope I guess. Geeez. Moldy down
here. And I can hear the cries for mercy beginning. Not as loud as last
time.

Mike Brock
STMFC OWner








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


ADMIN: Replies OFF LIST

mike brock <brockm@...>
 

Richard Hendrickson writes:

If you
are interested in either list (or both), e-mail me OFF LIST at
<rhendrickson@opendoor.com> . Please DO NOT respond directly to this
message, thus cluttering up the STMFC list; contact me directly at
the address above.
It is difficult for me to imagine a more clearly written statement that replies should be OFF LIST. Richard say to NOT respond directly to his message. Gary Ray immediately responds directly to Richard's message, to the list...the STMFC. To paraphrase Lincoln, You can expect some of the people some of the time to read and follow directions but you cannot expect ALL of the people ALL of the time to do so. Perhaps that's because ALL of the people simply cannot read. More than likely, it is because some don't understand what it means to reply OFF LIST. Therefore...before I escort Gary to Moderate Jail...I hate to go down there this time of year...the rats, you know...and the cries for mercy...I'll try to explain. When someone says to reply OFF LIST it means to replace the "TO" address of the STMFC with the individual's address that sent the message. One would think this would be obvious but I guess not.

So...anyhow, down to Moderate Jail. Lets see...I guess we'll put Gary in with the other moro...uh...inmates that cannot read. Hmmm. Now, where did I put that First Grade Reader book that I promised to bring with me on my last visit...oh yes, here it is. One can always hope I guess. Geeez. Moldy down here. And I can hear the cries for mercy beginning. Not as loud as last time.

Mike Brock
STMFC OWner

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