Date   

PRR Flat Car book

Bruce Smith
 

Folks,

Some of you may not have realized it, but the PRRT&HS published a
comprehensive book on PRR flat cars about 2 years ago. Just this
month, the PRRT&HS has announced that it once again has an e-store
and now you can buy the book easily and directly over the web.

Just go to http://www.prrths.com/estore/
and scroll down until you get to:
Pennsylvania Railroad Flat Cars Revenue & Work Equipment, 1818
1968, by Elden Gatwood and Al Buchan, 2008, $39 for softcover, $60
for hardcover.

The photos of the loads in the book are worth the price alone!

Disclaimer - I am a member of the PRRT&HS Board of Directors, a proud
owner of a copy of the book, and this post is shameless advertising
for the book.

Regards
Bruce

Bruce F. Smith
Auburn, AL
http://www.vetmed.auburn.edu/index.pl/bruce_f._smith2

"Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield."
__
/ \
__<+--+>________________&#92;__/___ ________________________________
|- ______/ O O &#92;_______ -| | __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ |
| / 4999 PENNSYLVANIA 4999 &#92; | ||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||
|/_____________________________&#92;|_|________________________________|
| O--O &#92;0 0 0 0/ O--O | 0-0-0 0-0-0




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: PRR/N&W H30a Covered Hoppers

pennsylvania1954
 

Hi Denny--I certainly concur with Bruce that this is an H30 not H30a. Railshop lists it on their website now as an H30.

This site may be of use to you:

http://prr.railfan.net/freight/classpage.html?class=H30

In the list of H30 numbers you have, 255576 - 255825 are class H30a.

Steve Hoxie
Pensacola FL


Re: Squadron Putty & Resin Kits

StephenK
 

I occasionally read a British aircraft model magazine (the mag is British, not the planes!). In any case, the reviews of the models are quite complete. For very small cracks between parts, the builders often use correction fluid (like Wite-out) I have tried it and it works!

Steve Kay

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Andy Carlson <midcentury@...> wrote:

I have been a big fan of Ace Hardware's "2-Ton" epoxy, a long cure rate 50/50
epoxy. It seems to have a finished harness which mimics the styrene base
material well, which when sanding/filing doesn't recess, saving having to do a
2nd or more additional coats. Drills, taps and reinforces well on styrene. With
a hole to fill, by placing a taut piece of clear Scotch Tape bridging the gap, a
back-fill of epoxy gives a repair which mostly doesn't even require any sanding.


I don't like 5-minute epoxy, it should be left behind at your store,
unpurchased.
-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA





________________________________
From: Kurt Laughlin <fleeta@...>
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sun, August 29, 2010 1:40:30 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Squadron Putty & Resin Kits


To thin or keep soft Squadron and other similar putties, use Testor's Liquid
Cement. The thinner it is, the more it shrinks, though.

I agree with the others that resin is best filled with thick (gap-flling)
superglue. Accellerator helps the process. You must sand it soon after it
dries, however, because overnight it will become harder than the resin (bad
for sanding).

Large areas (1/8 inch diameter or more) are best filled with some epoxy
putty. The hardware store stuff is fine.

For pinholes, use a Gunze Sangyo product, "Mr. Surfacer 500". It is like a
very thick paint but dries hard and wet sands easily.

A key to puttying models: Spend your time dry-fitting and trimming the
pices before gluing them rather than sanding filler afterwards. Also, only
use the minimum amount of filler. Minimum filler addition = minimum filler
removal = minimum detail lost.

Don't bother with a gray primer (or any primer at all) - it just hides
detail. If you want to check for defects, paint it your final color.
Inspect, sand, fill, and sand as needed, then wash it clean and paint the
final coats. It's always worked as good as anything else for me.

KL

----- Original Message -----
From: behillman

I tried filling some holes, etc. with "Squadron Putty" on some F&C resin kit
parts and it didn't stick good at all; broke out of the holes very easily
after a several day drying time. Any one with ideas about how to use it on
resin? Apparently the two don't like to adhere well.

Also, when trying to apply small amounts of "Squadron Putty" it dries very
quickly on the surface and doesn't allow you to spread it around easily.
It's base is "Toluene". Anyone try to, say, mix it with some more toluene,
maybe, or another solvent, to extend it's work-ability?




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


N&W HC-1 hoppers was (PRR/N&W H30a Covered Hoppers)

Bruce Smith
 

Now, I know nothing about these hopper cars as prototypes, and no documentation is included in the kit. I am also away from any relevant resources I might personally hold in this regard. What can listers kindly tell me? 1) When were these cars produced, and when were they retired?, 2) Were the N&W cars purchased de novo, or were they purchased from then-owner PRR second hand?
Denny,

Approximately 60 N&W class HC-1 (70210-70219) and HC-2 (70160-70209) were built new by the N&W (http://www.riverraisinmodels.com/lib/ nwhc1hc2.pdf). These were identical or nearly so to the PRR's H30 class. It appears that they were built prior to WWII (builder's photo of 70210 at the N&WHS web site http://www.nwhs.org/archivesdb/ detail.php?ID=20206 looks like 9/1937 if I am reading the photo date correctly)

BTW, the Rail Shops model is an H30 and not an H30A. There was some confusion during the run up to release, but the release is clearly an H30 (YAY!)

Regards
Bruce

Bruce F. Smith
Auburn, AL
http://www.vetmed.auburn.edu/index.pl/bruce_f._smith2

"Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield."
__
/ &#92;
__<+--+>________________&#92;__/___ ________________________________
|- ______/ O O &#92;_______ -| | __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ |
| / 4999 PENNSYLVANIA 4999 &#92; | ||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||
|/_____________________________&#92;|_|________________________________|
| O--O &#92;0 0 0 0/ O--O | 0-0-0 0-0-0


Just one more day...

Scott <smason2@...>
 

to take advantage of the August "Buy Two, Get One Free", DVD sale. The sale ends at the end of the day tomorrow, so don't wait any longer. Just order any two DVD's titles, and in the comments box, let me know which title you want for free. It's that simple.

You only have about 30 hours left to save a bundle, and get some great DVD's!

Thanks!

Scott
www.scottymason.com


Re: Squadron Putty & Resin Kits

Ed Mims
 

Bondo GLAZING & SPOT PUTTY is clearly the best all round filler for model building. It is available in a 4.5 oz tube at auto parts stores. Don't confuse this with the Bondo epoxy filler. This is a one part material, kind of orangey red in color and comes in a red, white and black tube. It will bond to almost anything and drys quickly. I keep it around for use on models but also use it around the house to fill holes in walls, woodwork, etc. It does not srink appreciably but in some cases might require a second (skim) coating to get a flat surface. It is the only filler I use.
 
Try to keep it off of your fingers. It bonds to them pretty tightly.
 
Ed Mims
Jacksonville, FL

--- On Mon, 8/30/10, Jack Burgess <jack@yosemitevalleyrr.com> wrote:


From: Jack Burgess <jack@yosemitevalleyrr.com>
Subject: RE: [STMFC] Re: Squadron Putty & Resin Kits
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, August 30, 2010, 3:15 PM


 



Denny mentioned:

<All that said, I still use Squadron putty for tiny jobs where waiting
<overnight for handling is or would be a pain. I too also despair (kind
<word) at the shrinkage.
<
<Denny

...which reminded me that the plastic model builders fill holes with CA set
with Accelerator. According to articles, they apply some CA and immediately
spray it with accelerator. It sets immediately and is easy to sand
immediately (but gets very hard in a little while). Multiple applications
could be used filling deeper areas.

Jack Burgess
www.yosemitevalleyrr.com











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: PRR/N&W H30a Covered Hoppers

Donald Ford <ford.donald77@...>
 

Denny
The SPF's will jump on this
Here is what info I have on these cars:
Nos. 254251-255575
254251-254350 100 built May 1935
254351-254650 300 built April & May 1936
254651-254950 300 built March –June 1938
254951-255050 100 built April-June 1940
255051-255275 225 built November & December 1940
255276-255575 300 built March 1946
Many of these cars lasted into Penn-Central in company snad service. Some made
it to Con-Rail.
Here are a list of references I have:

Pennsy Power III
pp. 408 #254821
 
PRR Color Guide I
pp. 112 #498058, #498057, #255419
PRR Color Guide II
pp. 65 #254306, #254523, #254824
 
Cars of PRR
pp. 53 #254252 roof
 
PennsylvaniaRailroad Locomotives and Cars 1939
pp. 31 #254351
 
Train Shed Cyclopedia #5
            pp. 296-297 #254252
 
Railroad Model Craftsman August 1987
pp. 86 #PC32301, #PC32349
Railroad Model Craftsman September 1995
pp. 41 #255023
 
Mainline Modeler March 2001
pp. 59 #254252
pp. 57-58 plan ¼"=1'-0"
Mainline Modeler April 2001
pp. 62 #498055
pp. 63 #CR74008
pp. 64 #498055, #255419, #498058
pp. 65 #PC32349, #PC32322
 
HO Model Trains March 1953
pp. 25 HO modeling article
 
Model Railroader December 1971
pp. 71 #255024 (shows fabricated bolster, car on EBT 3' gauge trucks)
Model Railroader October 1981
pp. 66 #255552, #PC875304
pp. 67 #255105, plan 3.5mm=1'-0"
 
Keystone Vol. 15-4
pp. 19 #254821, class diagram
Keystone Vol. 16-4
pp. 27 #254478
Keystone Vol. 20-3
pp. 7 #254252, #255105
Keystone Vol. 35-2
pp. 22 #254821
pp. 23 #255281
pp. 24-25 lettering diagram CK
pp. 28 #255323, #254554, #254306
pp. 30-31 lettering diagram SK1b
pp. 38 #255409
pp. 45 #255656
pp. 48 #254772
pp. 50-51 lettering diagram PK
The article by Richard Burg in the Vol. 15-4 of the Keystone is very good.  The
F&C kit is also a challange.  The H30 is only different in the roof.  I pictures
of these cars with 4 different type trucks including Crown, B-1, Whitehead &
Kales with and witout leaf springs in the center group.
I would send you some pictures but my computer skills is not up to that.  The
roof shot in the Wayner "Cars of the Pennsylvania Railroad helped me with the
F&C kit. 
Don Ford
Kanab UT


________________________________
From: Denny Anspach <danspach@macnexus.org>
To: STMFC List <STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Mon, August 30, 2010 12:50:01 PM
Subject: [STMFC] PRR/N&W H30a Covered Hoppers

 
Friends, I have taken up Rail Shops, Inc. new HO kit for this exotic looking (to
me) and interesting freight car. The kit is a mixture of very clean well
detailed "flat" molded styrene parts, but with all the end bracing and a lot of
small parts to be cut and folded from extensive frets of fine brass etchings.
There are no 3rd party aftermarket parts in the box.

Although a list of part numbers is referenced in the instructions, none is in
the kit. Inasmuch as the instructions refer to parts simply by number ("part 2",
or "part 33"), I laid out all the parts on the bench and took the time to
extract their numbers from the instructions and photographs, and then both mark
them directly with a fine pen, make my own written list . A minor irritant, but
yet still an irritant.

The styrene is a light gray with a very high shiny finish that I have not seen
before, and it is also bendable, a requirement inasmuch as key parts of the
major construction require bending. I have already assembled the basic body/box,
and so far both the directions and actual assembly are exactly "as advertised".


A selection of appropriate decals can be purchased separately from the Rail
Shops website, but none are included with the kit.

I will report later when I start addressing the "origami" phase of construction.

Now, I know nothing about these hopper cars as prototypes, and no documentation
is included in the kit. I am also away from any relevant resources I might
personally hold in this regard. What can listers kindly tell me? 1) When were
these cars produced, and when were they retired?, 2) Were the N&W cars purchased
de novo, or were they purchased from then-owner PRR second hand?


Denny

Denny S. Anspach, MD
Okoboji, Iowa







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Squadron Putty & Resin Kits

Jack Burgess
 

Denny mentioned:

<All that said, I still use Squadron putty for tiny jobs where waiting
<overnight for handling is or would be a pain. I too also despair (kind
<word) at the shrinkage.
<
<Denny

...which reminded me that the plastic model builders fill holes with CA set
with Accelerator. According to articles, they apply some CA and immediately
spray it with accelerator. It sets immediately and is easy to sand
immediately (but gets very hard in a little while). Multiple applications
could be used filling deeper areas.


Jack Burgess
www.yosemitevalleyrr.com


PRR/N&W H30a Covered Hoppers

Denny Anspach <danspach@...>
 

Friends, I have taken up Rail Shops, Inc. new HO kit for this exotic looking (to me) and interesting freight car. The kit is a mixture of very clean well detailed "flat" molded styrene parts, but with all the end bracing and a lot of small parts to be cut and folded from extensive frets of fine brass etchings. There are no 3rd party aftermarket parts in the box.

Although a list of part numbers is referenced in the instructions, none is in the kit. Inasmuch as the instructions refer to parts simply by number ("part 2", or "part 33"), I laid out all the parts on the bench and took the time to extract their numbers from the instructions and photographs, and then both mark them directly with a fine pen, make my own written list . A minor irritant, but yet still an irritant.

The styrene is a light gray with a very high shiny finish that I have not seen before, and it is also bendable, a requirement inasmuch as key parts of the major construction require bending. I have already assembled the basic body/box, and so far both the directions and actual assembly are exactly "as advertised".

A selection of appropriate decals can be purchased separately from the Rail Shops website, but none are included with the kit.

I will report later when I start addressing the "origami" phase of construction.

Now, I know nothing about these hopper cars as prototypes, and no documentation is included in the kit. I am also away from any relevant resources I might personally hold in this regard. What can listers kindly tell me? 1) When were these cars produced, and when were they retired?, 2) Were the N&W cars purchased de novo, or were they purchased from then-owner PRR second hand?

Denny

Denny S. Anspach, MD
Okoboji, Iowa


Re: Squadron Putty & Resin Kits

Denny Anspach <danspach@...>
 

Andy Carlson has it just right in advising the use of a standard long-set epoxy to use as a filler choice; and to aalso avoid the 5 minute type, except in extremis [my term!].

An easier epoxy to use is an epoxy designed to be a filler, i.e. epoxy resin already filled with vinyl microballoons, or microfibres. These filler-resins are much lighter in weight, and are much easier to sand. I am still using for this purpose two small "sample" jars (resin and hardener) of very light weight sculpting epoxy handed out at the 2000 NMRA San Jose convention. Like with all epoxies, if the resin becomes stiff and turbid with time, just place the resin container in very hot water for a period of time, and the resin then becomes reconstituted (if that is the word) for another couple of years.

Something very much to keep in mind is that the polyester and epoxy-resin-based fillers set without shrinkage, while the solvent-based fillers always have the potential to always shrink to some extent: the more solvent, the more shrinkage (a cautionary note to those "thinning" putties).

All that said, I still use Squadron putty for tiny jobs where waiting overnight for handling is or would be a pain. I too also despair (kind word) at the shrinkage.

Denny

Denny S. Anspach, MD
Okoboji, Iowa


Re: Squadron Putty & Resin Kits

Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
 

I've always been happy with Squadron Green, though it's true one needs to learn how to use it. I have not used it much with resin kits, but have not encountered any problems, either. The material does dry out and occasionally one has to squeeze out some discard material to reach fresh putty, but since a tube lasts me for years, I can hardly complain about a little waste.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@signaturepress.com
Publishers of books on railroad history


1942-1946 Dry Bulk Covered Hopper Cars Definition and Discharge Gates

al.kresse <water.kresse@...>
 

Folks,

I'm looking at the 1942-46 built Pere Marquette 70-ton covered hopper cars. My available definition for a LO is a special car type "LO" -- A self-clearing permanently enclosed car, having fixed roof, sides and ends and provided with openings for loading through roof or sides. Openings fitted with weathertight covers or doors. Car also provided with bottom openings for unloading, with tight fitting covers or doors to prevent leakage of such commonities as sand, etc. is from a Aug 1938 ORER. Would that be current for my era?

I've also CBC images of the Enterprise discharge frames and gates for 1937 and 1957. Which would been used in 1942-46 era. The major diff seems to be an square extension on the gate operating shaft to install a crank handle into.


Re: Squadron Putty & Resin Kits

michaelashelley <mashelley@...>
 

I thin Squadron white putty with acetone (Cutex Nail Polish Remover, because that's what I have on hand.) It can be smoothed with a cotton swab dipped in acetone as well. However, I have not tried using it on resin.

Squadron white putty seems to have a finer grain than their green putty.

M.A.Shelley

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "behillman" <chris_hillman@...> wrote:

I tried filling some holes, etc. with "Squadron Putty" on some F&C resin kit parts and it didn't stick good at all; broke out of the holes very easily after a several day drying time. Any one with ideas about how to use it on resin? Apparently the two don't like to adhere well.

Also, when trying to apply small amounts of "Squadron Putty" it dries very quickly on the surface and doesn't allow you to spread it around easily. It's base is "Toluene". Anyone try to, say, mix it with some more toluene, maybe, or another solvent, to extend it's work-ability?

Thanks, Paul Hillman


Re: Squadron Putty & Resin Kits

Bob Sterner
 

Testors sells a white putty in a tube that is thinner and easier to work with than Squadron.

Bob Sterner

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Lucas" <stevelucas3@...> wrote:

The red Bondo putty works well for me. It can be cut with Testor's solvent. I also brush a little bit of solvent into the top of the tube when closing it up, or else it'll dry out a bit.

Gunze Sangyo "Mr. Surfacer" I can also reccommend, having used it on many resin kits. Including a resin coach kit that I have become very anal retentive about the finish on. This stuff, when painted on, shows bad joints and flaws immediately. It's nice to find them before painting a model.

Steve Lucas.

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Rob & Bev Manley" <robev1630@> wrote:

Paul,
I agree with the red Bondo spot putty.It has worked well and I have used it for years with no ill results.

Rob Manley

----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Hillman
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2010 2:44 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Squadron Putty & Resin Kits



Jack, and all,

Bondo "Glazing & Spot Putty" might be a better material. I have some from working on my vehicle paint jobs I'm doing also. I think it has a longer work-time and sticks to about anything which is cleaned well. Nice call!

The holes I'm having to fill are, yes, mistakes I made in drilling some counter-sunk holes for screws in the wrong places, to make a car-floor removable. They're like 1/16" dia. in 1/16" material and counter-sunk. There are also some casting-flaws in the car body that need filling & filing.

Let's see how the old "Bondo trick" comes through.

Thanks, Paul Hillman

----- Original Message -----
From: Jack Burgess<mailto:jack@>
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com<mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2010 2:02 PM
Subject: RE: [STMFC] Squadron Putty & Resin Kits

<I tried filling some holes, etc. with "Squadron Putty" on some F&C resin
<kit parts and it didn't stick good at all; broke out of the holes very
<easily after a several day drying time. Any one with ideas about how to
<use it on resin? Apparently the two don't like to adhere well.
<
<Also, when trying to apply small amounts of "Squadron Putty" it dries
<very quickly on the surface and doesn't allow you to spread it around
<easily. It's base is "Toluene". Anyone try to, say, mix it with some
<more toluene, maybe, or another solvent, to extend it's work-ability?
<
<Thanks, Paul Hillman

I've been using Bondo Glazing & Spot Putty for styrene and possibly resin
too. I know I haven't problems using is on styrene and don't recall any
problems with resin. It is available at auto parts stores.

Jack Burgess
www.yosemitevalleyrr.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Archer rivets

Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
 

Ned Carey wrote:
2) I found it difficult to handle the full 1" long strip of rivets. I would up putting them on in strips of 2 to 4 and lining them up. This worked fine. Tony Thompson mentioned in an earlier e-mail that he got the hang of working with the long strips. Any tips Tony?
The strips have a kind of stiffness that you wouldn't have with a same-size piece of regular decal. I just handled them accordingly. I think the main thing I tried to do was to get them close to the right position on the model right from the start. My feeling was that they are entirely workable.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@signaturepress.com
Publishers of books on railroad history


Re: Archer rivets

Steve Lucas <stevelucas3@...>
 

For making a long narrow strip, a rivet punch IMHO works very well. I wanted such a strip for the bottom of a streamlined resin kit coach side. I punched a row of rivets in .005" thick styrene about 1/2" wide, CA'ing it to the bottom of the side after first attaching it with Testor's solvent. More CA filled the joint between side and rivet strip, with Mr. Surfacer painted into the joint for good measure. I then trimmed the rivet strip to conform with car side, using progressively finer grades of sandpaper to 1500-grit. Result--an invisible joint between rivet strip and car side.

It's easier to keep a straight piece of 1/2" wide styrene with rivets punched in it straight, than it is to keep a long decal strip straight. And I get to pull out my hair when my son does something annoying rather than pulling it out while decalling.

Steve Lucas.

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Ned Carey" <nedspam@...> wrote:

In my "what on your bench" response I mentioned a Shay I was working on. I had the first opportunity to use Archer rivets. I needed about a one inch long row of rivets on about a .050" wide strip of brass.


My thoughts:
1) Firstly I was disappointed in the shape of the rivets. They seemed to be an irregular oval shape not round. Painted and in use I don't think it is as big a concern as I thought when I saw the package. Is this irregular shape common for Archer?

2) I found it difficult to handle the full 1" long strip of rivets. I would up putting them on in strips of 2 to 4 and lining them up. This worked fine. Tony Thompson mentioned in an earlier e-mail that he got the hang of working with the long strips. Any tips Tony?

3) I didn't see anyone else mention a tip in the instructions. Brush a little Future acrylic floor polish (essentially clear acrylic paint) and apply the decals while the Future is still wet to help adhesion. I did this on bare brass and it worked fine. - In fact I needed to scrape off a couple that were in poor alignment. This was done before any overcoat on the decals. It took some effort to scrape them off. They were not delicate at all.

I wouldn't hesitate to use them again. I can see this could be another significant advance in modeling technology. Builders plates, trust plates, hinges, patch panels and many other details could be done this way.

Ned Carey



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Squadron Putty & Resin Kits

Steve Lucas <stevelucas3@...>
 

The red Bondo putty works well for me. It can be cut with Testor's solvent. I also brush a little bit of solvent into the top of the tube when closing it up, or else it'll dry out a bit.

Gunze Sangyo "Mr. Surfacer" I can also reccommend, having used it on many resin kits. Including a resin coach kit that I have become very anal retentive about the finish on. This stuff, when painted on, shows bad joints and flaws immediately. It's nice to find them before painting a model.

Steve Lucas.

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Rob & Bev Manley" <robev1630@...> wrote:

Paul,
I agree with the red Bondo spot putty.It has worked well and I have used it for years with no ill results.

Rob Manley

----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Hillman
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2010 2:44 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Squadron Putty & Resin Kits



Jack, and all,

Bondo "Glazing & Spot Putty" might be a better material. I have some from working on my vehicle paint jobs I'm doing also. I think it has a longer work-time and sticks to about anything which is cleaned well. Nice call!

The holes I'm having to fill are, yes, mistakes I made in drilling some counter-sunk holes for screws in the wrong places, to make a car-floor removable. They're like 1/16" dia. in 1/16" material and counter-sunk. There are also some casting-flaws in the car body that need filling & filing.

Let's see how the old "Bondo trick" comes through.

Thanks, Paul Hillman

----- Original Message -----
From: Jack Burgess<mailto:jack@...>
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com<mailto:STMFC@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2010 2:02 PM
Subject: RE: [STMFC] Squadron Putty & Resin Kits

<I tried filling some holes, etc. with "Squadron Putty" on some F&C resin
<kit parts and it didn't stick good at all; broke out of the holes very
<easily after a several day drying time. Any one with ideas about how to
<use it on resin? Apparently the two don't like to adhere well.
<
<Also, when trying to apply small amounts of "Squadron Putty" it dries
<very quickly on the surface and doesn't allow you to spread it around
<easily. It's base is "Toluene". Anyone try to, say, mix it with some
<more toluene, maybe, or another solvent, to extend it's work-ability?
<
<Thanks, Paul Hillman

I've been using Bondo Glazing & Spot Putty for styrene and possibly resin
too. I know I haven't problems using is on styrene and don't recall any
problems with resin. It is available at auto parts stores.

Jack Burgess
www.yosemitevalleyrr.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Archer rivets

Ned Carey <nedspam@...>
 

In my "what on your bench" response I mentioned a Shay I was working on. I had the first opportunity to use Archer rivets. I needed about a one inch long row of rivets on about a .050" wide strip of brass.


My thoughts:
1) Firstly I was disappointed in the shape of the rivets. They seemed to be an irregular oval shape not round. Painted and in use I don't think it is as big a concern as I thought when I saw the package. Is this irregular shape common for Archer?

2) I found it difficult to handle the full 1" long strip of rivets. I would up putting them on in strips of 2 to 4 and lining them up. This worked fine. Tony Thompson mentioned in an earlier e-mail that he got the hang of working with the long strips. Any tips Tony?

3) I didn't see anyone else mention a tip in the instructions. Brush a little Future acrylic floor polish (essentially clear acrylic paint) and apply the decals while the Future is still wet to help adhesion. I did this on bare brass and it worked fine. - In fact I needed to scrape off a couple that were in poor alignment. This was done before any overcoat on the decals. It took some effort to scrape them off. They were not delicate at all.

I wouldn't hesitate to use them again. I can see this could be another significant advance in modeling technology. Builders plates, trust plates, hinges, patch panels and many other details could be done this way.

Ned Carey


Re: What's on your work bench?

Ned Carey <nedspam@...>
 

Currently My freight car projects are on temporary hold

Precision Scale 6,000 gal. Van Dyke tank car.
This kit is not well known. Many people do not know this kit comes in standard gauge as well as narow gauge. I would recomend the kit to anyone who wants a unique tank car. While certinly not common by the end of the steam era it adds aditional variety top our tank car fleets in both style and size. I recomend you get the version with brass detail parts and get a copy of Richard Hendricksons article on these cars in the December 1995 Railroad Model Craftsman.

Speedwitch Media's 8,000 gal. Presed steel tank car.
I highly recomend this kit. It is a kitbash in a box with excellent instructions and pictures. It is fun to build. Ted is to be commended for the great in progress photos that leave little question how to proceed.

Sunshine WM boxcars
I sure these will look great when I am done but dealing with the running boards and corner grabs has not been fun.

What is currently progressing is two Shay engines. A four truck shay only needs paint at this point.

Bill Welch's question about the sherline mills got me motivated to work on my second shay. I am using the mill to cut to shape, cut windows and cut fold lines for a scratchbuilt cab.

Ned Carey


Re: Squadron Putty & Resin Kits

Armand Premo
 

FWIW I have used Squadron green and white putty as well as Ace 5 minute epoxy for years without a problem .The two ton epoxy is also great if you are not in a hurry.Armand Premo

----- Original Message -----
From: Andy Carlson
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2010 7:14 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Squadron Putty & Resin Kits



I have been a big fan of Ace Hardware's "2-Ton" epoxy, a long cure rate 50/50
epoxy. It seems to have a finished harness which mimics the styrene base
material well, which when sanding/filing doesn't recess, saving having to do a
2nd or more additional coats. Drills, taps and reinforces well on styrene. With
a hole to fill, by placing a taut piece of clear Scotch Tape bridging the gap, a
back-fill of epoxy gives a repair which mostly doesn't even require any sanding.

I don't like 5-minute epoxy, it should be left behind at your store,
unpurchased.
-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA

________________________________
From: Kurt Laughlin <fleeta@verizon.net>
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sun, August 29, 2010 1:40:30 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Squadron Putty & Resin Kits

To thin or keep soft Squadron and other similar putties, use Testor's Liquid
Cement. The thinner it is, the more it shrinks, though.

I agree with the others that resin is best filled with thick (gap-flling)
superglue. Accellerator helps the process. You must sand it soon after it
dries, however, because overnight it will become harder than the resin (bad
for sanding).

Large areas (1/8 inch diameter or more) are best filled with some epoxy
putty. The hardware store stuff is fine.

For pinholes, use a Gunze Sangyo product, "Mr. Surfacer 500". It is like a
very thick paint but dries hard and wet sands easily.

A key to puttying models: Spend your time dry-fitting and trimming the
pices before gluing them rather than sanding filler afterwards. Also, only
use the minimum amount of filler. Minimum filler addition = minimum filler
removal = minimum detail lost.

Don't bother with a gray primer (or any primer at all) - it just hides
detail. If you want to check for defects, paint it your final color.
Inspect, sand, fill, and sand as needed, then wash it clean and paint the
final coats. It's always worked as good as anything else for me.

KL

----- Original Message -----
From: behillman

I tried filling some holes, etc. with "Squadron Putty" on some F&C resin kit
parts and it didn't stick good at all; broke out of the holes very easily
after a several day drying time. Any one with ideas about how to use it on
resin? Apparently the two don't like to adhere well.

Also, when trying to apply small amounts of "Squadron Putty" it dries very
quickly on the surface and doesn't allow you to spread it around easily.
It's base is "Toluene". Anyone try to, say, mix it with some more toluene,
maybe, or another solvent, to extend it's work-ability?








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