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Re: Squadron Putty & Resin Kits
StephenK
I occasionally read a British aircraft model magazine (the mag is British, not the planes!). In any case, the reviews of the models are quite complete. For very small cracks between parts, the builders often use correction fluid (like Wite-out) I have tried it and it works!
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Steve Kay
--- In STMFC@..., Andy Carlson <midcentury@...> wrote:
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N&W HC-1 hoppers was (PRR/N&W H30a Covered Hoppers)
Now, I know nothing about these hopper cars as prototypes, and no documentation is included in the kit. I am also away from any relevant resources I might personally hold in this regard. What can listers kindly tell me? 1) When were these cars produced, and when were they retired?, 2) Were the N&W cars purchased de novo, or were they purchased from then-owner PRR second hand?Denny, Approximately 60 N&W class HC-1 (70210-70219) and HC-2 (70160-70209) were built new by the N&W (http://www.riverraisinmodels.com/lib/ nwhc1hc2.pdf). These were identical or nearly so to the PRR's H30 class. It appears that they were built prior to WWII (builder's photo of 70210 at the N&WHS web site http://www.nwhs.org/archivesdb/ detail.php?ID=20206 looks like 9/1937 if I am reading the photo date correctly) BTW, the Rail Shops model is an H30 and not an H30A. There was some confusion during the run up to release, but the release is clearly an H30 (YAY!) Regards Bruce Bruce F. Smith Auburn, AL http://www.vetmed.auburn.edu/index.pl/bruce_f._smith2 "Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield." __ / \ __<+--+>________________\__/___ ________________________________ |- ______/ O O \_______ -| | __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ | | / 4999 PENNSYLVANIA 4999 \ | ||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||__|| |/_____________________________\|_|________________________________| | O--O \0 0 0 0/ O--O | 0-0-0 0-0-0
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Just one more day...
Scott <smason2@...>
to take advantage of the August "Buy Two, Get One Free", DVD sale. The sale ends at the end of the day tomorrow, so don't wait any longer. Just order any two DVD's titles, and in the comments box, let me know which title you want for free. It's that simple.
You only have about 30 hours left to save a bundle, and get some great DVD's! Thanks! Scott www.scottymason.com
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Re: Squadron Putty & Resin Kits
Ed Mims
Bondo GLAZING & SPOT PUTTY is clearly the best all round filler for model building. It is available in a 4.5 oz tube at auto parts stores. Don't confuse this with the Bondo epoxy filler. This is a one part material, kind of orangey red in color and comes in a red, white and black tube. It will bond to almost anything and drys quickly. I keep it around for use on models but also use it around the house to fill holes in walls, woodwork, etc. It does not srink appreciably but in some cases might require a second (skim) coating to get a flat surface. It is the only filler I use.
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 Try to keep it off of your fingers. It bonds to them pretty tightly.  Ed Mims Jacksonville, FL
--- On Mon, 8/30/10, Jack Burgess <jack@...> wrote:
From: Jack Burgess <jack@...> Subject: RE: [STMFC] Re: Squadron Putty & Resin Kits To: STMFC@... Date: Monday, August 30, 2010, 3:15 PM Â Denny mentioned: <All that said, I still use Squadron putty for tiny jobs where waiting <overnight for handling is or would be a pain. I too also despair (kind <word) at the shrinkage. < <Denny ...which reminded me that the plastic model builders fill holes with CA set with Accelerator. According to articles, they apply some CA and immediately spray it with accelerator. It sets immediately and is easy to sand immediately (but gets very hard in a little while). Multiple applications could be used filling deeper areas. Jack Burgess www.yosemitevalleyrr.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Re: PRR/N&W H30a Covered Hoppers
Donald Ford <ford.donald77@...>
Denny
The SPF's will jump on this Here is what info I have on these cars: Nos. 254251-255575 254251-254350 100 built May 1935 254351-254650 300 built April & May 1936 254651-254950 300 built March –June 1938 254951-255050 100 built April-June 1940 255051-255275 225 built November & December 1940 255276-255575 300 built March 1946 Many of these cars lasted into Penn-Central in company snad service. Some made it to Con-Rail. Here are a list of references I have: Pennsy Power III pp. 408 #254821  PRR Color Guide I pp. 112 #498058, #498057, #255419 PRR Color Guide II pp. 65 #254306, #254523, #254824  Cars of PRR pp. 53 #254252 roof  PennsylvaniaRailroad Locomotives and Cars 1939 pp. 31 #254351  Train Shed Cyclopedia #5            pp. 296-297 #254252  Railroad Model Craftsman August 1987 pp. 86 #PC32301, #PC32349 Railroad Model Craftsman September 1995 pp. 41 #255023  Mainline Modeler March 2001 pp. 59 #254252 pp. 57-58 plan ¼"=1'-0" Mainline Modeler April 2001 pp. 62 #498055 pp. 63 #CR74008 pp. 64 #498055, #255419, #498058 pp. 65 #PC32349, #PC32322  HO Model Trains March 1953 pp. 25 HO modeling article  Model Railroader December 1971 pp. 71 #255024 (shows fabricated bolster, car on EBT 3' gauge trucks) Model Railroader October 1981 pp. 66 #255552, #PC875304 pp. 67 #255105, plan 3.5mm=1'-0"  Keystone Vol. 15-4 pp. 19 #254821, class diagram Keystone Vol. 16-4 pp. 27 #254478 Keystone Vol. 20-3 pp. 7 #254252, #255105 Keystone Vol. 35-2 pp. 22 #254821 pp. 23 #255281 pp. 24-25 lettering diagram CK pp. 28 #255323, #254554, #254306 pp. 30-31 lettering diagram SK1b pp. 38 #255409 pp. 45 #255656 pp. 48 #254772 pp. 50-51 lettering diagram PK The article by Richard Burg in the Vol. 15-4 of the Keystone is very good. The F&C kit is also a challange. The H30 is only different in the roof. I pictures of these cars with 4 different type trucks including Crown, B-1, Whitehead & Kales with and witout leaf springs in the center group. I would send you some pictures but my computer skills is not up to that. The roof shot in the Wayner "Cars of the Pennsylvania Railroad helped me with the F&C kit. Don Ford Kanab UT ________________________________ From: Denny Anspach <danspach@...> To: STMFC List <STMFC@...> Sent: Mon, August 30, 2010 12:50:01 PM Subject: [STMFC] PRR/N&W H30a Covered Hoppers  Friends, I have taken up Rail Shops, Inc. new HO kit for this exotic looking (to me) and interesting freight car. The kit is a mixture of very clean well detailed "flat" molded styrene parts, but with all the end bracing and a lot of small parts to be cut and folded from extensive frets of fine brass etchings. There are no 3rd party aftermarket parts in the box. Although a list of part numbers is referenced in the instructions, none is in the kit. Inasmuch as the instructions refer to parts simply by number ("part 2", or "part 33"), I laid out all the parts on the bench and took the time to extract their numbers from the instructions and photographs, and then both mark them directly with a fine pen, make my own written list . A minor irritant, but yet still an irritant. The styrene is a light gray with a very high shiny finish that I have not seen before, and it is also bendable, a requirement inasmuch as key parts of the major construction require bending. I have already assembled the basic body/box, and so far both the directions and actual assembly are exactly "as advertised". A selection of appropriate decals can be purchased separately from the Rail Shops website, but none are included with the kit. I will report later when I start addressing the "origami" phase of construction. Now, I know nothing about these hopper cars as prototypes, and no documentation is included in the kit. I am also away from any relevant resources I might personally hold in this regard. What can listers kindly tell me? 1) When were these cars produced, and when were they retired?, 2) Were the N&W cars purchased de novo, or were they purchased from then-owner PRR second hand? Denny Denny S. Anspach, MD Okoboji, Iowa [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Re: Squadron Putty & Resin Kits
Jack Burgess <jack@...>
Denny mentioned:
<All that said, I still use Squadron putty for tiny jobs where waiting <overnight for handling is or would be a pain. I too also despair (kind <word) at the shrinkage. < <Denny ...which reminded me that the plastic model builders fill holes with CA set with Accelerator. According to articles, they apply some CA and immediately spray it with accelerator. It sets immediately and is easy to sand immediately (but gets very hard in a little while). Multiple applications could be used filling deeper areas. Jack Burgess www.yosemitevalleyrr.com
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PRR/N&W H30a Covered Hoppers
Denny Anspach <danspach@...>
Friends, I have taken up Rail Shops, Inc. new HO kit for this exotic looking (to me) and interesting freight car. The kit is a mixture of very clean well detailed "flat" molded styrene parts, but with all the end bracing and a lot of small parts to be cut and folded from extensive frets of fine brass etchings. There are no 3rd party aftermarket parts in the box.
Although a list of part numbers is referenced in the instructions, none is in the kit. Inasmuch as the instructions refer to parts simply by number ("part 2", or "part 33"), I laid out all the parts on the bench and took the time to extract their numbers from the instructions and photographs, and then both mark them directly with a fine pen, make my own written list . A minor irritant, but yet still an irritant. The styrene is a light gray with a very high shiny finish that I have not seen before, and it is also bendable, a requirement inasmuch as key parts of the major construction require bending. I have already assembled the basic body/box, and so far both the directions and actual assembly are exactly "as advertised". A selection of appropriate decals can be purchased separately from the Rail Shops website, but none are included with the kit. I will report later when I start addressing the "origami" phase of construction. Now, I know nothing about these hopper cars as prototypes, and no documentation is included in the kit. I am also away from any relevant resources I might personally hold in this regard. What can listers kindly tell me? 1) When were these cars produced, and when were they retired?, 2) Were the N&W cars purchased de novo, or were they purchased from then-owner PRR second hand? Denny Denny S. Anspach, MD Okoboji, Iowa
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Re: Squadron Putty & Resin Kits
Denny Anspach <danspach@...>
Andy Carlson has it just right in advising the use of a standard long-set epoxy to use as a filler choice; and to aalso avoid the 5 minute type, except in extremis [my term!].
An easier epoxy to use is an epoxy designed to be a filler, i.e. epoxy resin already filled with vinyl microballoons, or microfibres. These filler-resins are much lighter in weight, and are much easier to sand. I am still using for this purpose two small "sample" jars (resin and hardener) of very light weight sculpting epoxy handed out at the 2000 NMRA San Jose convention. Like with all epoxies, if the resin becomes stiff and turbid with time, just place the resin container in very hot water for a period of time, and the resin then becomes reconstituted (if that is the word) for another couple of years. Something very much to keep in mind is that the polyester and epoxy-resin-based fillers set without shrinkage, while the solvent-based fillers always have the potential to always shrink to some extent: the more solvent, the more shrinkage (a cautionary note to those "thinning" putties). All that said, I still use Squadron putty for tiny jobs where waiting overnight for handling is or would be a pain. I too also despair (kind word) at the shrinkage. Denny Denny S. Anspach, MD Okoboji, Iowa
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Re: Squadron Putty & Resin Kits
Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
I've always been happy with Squadron Green, though it's true one needs to learn how to use it. I have not used it much with resin kits, but have not encountered any problems, either. The material does dry out and occasionally one has to squeeze out some discard material to reach fresh putty, but since a tube lasts me for years, I can hardly complain about a little waste.
Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA 2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com (510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@... Publishers of books on railroad history
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1942-1946 Dry Bulk Covered Hopper Cars Definition and Discharge Gates
al.kresse <water.kresse@...>
Folks,
I'm looking at the 1942-46 built Pere Marquette 70-ton covered hopper cars. My available definition for a LO is a special car type "LO" -- A self-clearing permanently enclosed car, having fixed roof, sides and ends and provided with openings for loading through roof or sides. Openings fitted with weathertight covers or doors. Car also provided with bottom openings for unloading, with tight fitting covers or doors to prevent leakage of such commonities as sand, etc. is from a Aug 1938 ORER. Would that be current for my era? I've also CBC images of the Enterprise discharge frames and gates for 1937 and 1957. Which would been used in 1942-46 era. The major diff seems to be an square extension on the gate operating shaft to install a crank handle into.
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Re: Squadron Putty & Resin Kits
michaelashelley <mashelley@...>
I thin Squadron white putty with acetone (Cutex Nail Polish Remover, because that's what I have on hand.) It can be smoothed with a cotton swab dipped in acetone as well. However, I have not tried using it on resin.
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Squadron white putty seems to have a finer grain than their green putty. M.A.Shelley
--- In STMFC@..., "behillman" <chris_hillman@...> wrote:
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Re: Squadron Putty & Resin Kits
Testors sells a white putty in a tube that is thinner and easier to work with than Squadron.
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Bob Sterner
--- In STMFC@..., "Steve Lucas" <stevelucas3@...> wrote:
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Re: Archer rivets
Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
Ned Carey wrote:
2) I found it difficult to handle the full 1" long strip of rivets. I would up putting them on in strips of 2 to 4 and lining them up. This worked fine. Tony Thompson mentioned in an earlier e-mail that he got the hang of working with the long strips. Any tips Tony?The strips have a kind of stiffness that you wouldn't have with a same-size piece of regular decal. I just handled them accordingly. I think the main thing I tried to do was to get them close to the right position on the model right from the start. My feeling was that they are entirely workable. Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA 2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com (510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@... Publishers of books on railroad history
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Re: Archer rivets
Steve Lucas <stevelucas3@...>
For making a long narrow strip, a rivet punch IMHO works very well. I wanted such a strip for the bottom of a streamlined resin kit coach side. I punched a row of rivets in .005" thick styrene about 1/2" wide, CA'ing it to the bottom of the side after first attaching it with Testor's solvent. More CA filled the joint between side and rivet strip, with Mr. Surfacer painted into the joint for good measure. I then trimmed the rivet strip to conform with car side, using progressively finer grades of sandpaper to 1500-grit. Result--an invisible joint between rivet strip and car side.
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It's easier to keep a straight piece of 1/2" wide styrene with rivets punched in it straight, than it is to keep a long decal strip straight. And I get to pull out my hair when my son does something annoying rather than pulling it out while decalling. Steve Lucas.
--- In STMFC@..., "Ned Carey" <nedspam@...> wrote:
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Re: Squadron Putty & Resin Kits
Steve Lucas <stevelucas3@...>
The red Bondo putty works well for me. It can be cut with Testor's solvent. I also brush a little bit of solvent into the top of the tube when closing it up, or else it'll dry out a bit.
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Gunze Sangyo "Mr. Surfacer" I can also reccommend, having used it on many resin kits. Including a resin coach kit that I have become very anal retentive about the finish on. This stuff, when painted on, shows bad joints and flaws immediately. It's nice to find them before painting a model. Steve Lucas.
--- In STMFC@..., "Rob & Bev Manley" <robev1630@...> wrote:
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Archer rivets
Ned Carey <nedspam@...>
In my "what on your bench" response I mentioned a Shay I was working on. I had the first opportunity to use Archer rivets. I needed about a one inch long row of rivets on about a .050" wide strip of brass.
My thoughts: 1) Firstly I was disappointed in the shape of the rivets. They seemed to be an irregular oval shape not round. Painted and in use I don't think it is as big a concern as I thought when I saw the package. Is this irregular shape common for Archer? 2) I found it difficult to handle the full 1" long strip of rivets. I would up putting them on in strips of 2 to 4 and lining them up. This worked fine. Tony Thompson mentioned in an earlier e-mail that he got the hang of working with the long strips. Any tips Tony? 3) I didn't see anyone else mention a tip in the instructions. Brush a little Future acrylic floor polish (essentially clear acrylic paint) and apply the decals while the Future is still wet to help adhesion. I did this on bare brass and it worked fine. - In fact I needed to scrape off a couple that were in poor alignment. This was done before any overcoat on the decals. It took some effort to scrape them off. They were not delicate at all. I wouldn't hesitate to use them again. I can see this could be another significant advance in modeling technology. Builders plates, trust plates, hinges, patch panels and many other details could be done this way. Ned Carey
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Re: What's on your work bench?
Ned Carey <nedspam@...>
Currently My freight car projects are on temporary hold
Precision Scale 6,000 gal. Van Dyke tank car. This kit is not well known. Many people do not know this kit comes in standard gauge as well as narow gauge. I would recomend the kit to anyone who wants a unique tank car. While certinly not common by the end of the steam era it adds aditional variety top our tank car fleets in both style and size. I recomend you get the version with brass detail parts and get a copy of Richard Hendricksons article on these cars in the December 1995 Railroad Model Craftsman. Speedwitch Media's 8,000 gal. Presed steel tank car. I highly recomend this kit. It is a kitbash in a box with excellent instructions and pictures. It is fun to build. Ted is to be commended for the great in progress photos that leave little question how to proceed. Sunshine WM boxcars I sure these will look great when I am done but dealing with the running boards and corner grabs has not been fun. What is currently progressing is two Shay engines. A four truck shay only needs paint at this point. Bill Welch's question about the sherline mills got me motivated to work on my second shay. I am using the mill to cut to shape, cut windows and cut fold lines for a scratchbuilt cab. Ned Carey
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Re: Squadron Putty & Resin Kits
Armand Premo
FWIW I have used Squadron green and white putty as well as Ace 5 minute epoxy for years without a problem .The two ton epoxy is also great if you are not in a hurry.Armand Premo
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----- Original Message -----
From: Andy Carlson To: STMFC@... Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2010 7:14 PM Subject: [STMFC] Squadron Putty & Resin Kits I have been a big fan of Ace Hardware's "2-Ton" epoxy, a long cure rate 50/50 epoxy. It seems to have a finished harness which mimics the styrene base material well, which when sanding/filing doesn't recess, saving having to do a 2nd or more additional coats. Drills, taps and reinforces well on styrene. With a hole to fill, by placing a taut piece of clear Scotch Tape bridging the gap, a back-fill of epoxy gives a repair which mostly doesn't even require any sanding. I don't like 5-minute epoxy, it should be left behind at your store, unpurchased. -Andy Carlson Ojai CA ________________________________ From: Kurt Laughlin <fleeta@...> To: STMFC@... Sent: Sun, August 29, 2010 1:40:30 PM Subject: Re: [STMFC] Squadron Putty & Resin Kits To thin or keep soft Squadron and other similar putties, use Testor's Liquid Cement. The thinner it is, the more it shrinks, though. I agree with the others that resin is best filled with thick (gap-flling) superglue. Accellerator helps the process. You must sand it soon after it dries, however, because overnight it will become harder than the resin (bad for sanding). Large areas (1/8 inch diameter or more) are best filled with some epoxy putty. The hardware store stuff is fine. For pinholes, use a Gunze Sangyo product, "Mr. Surfacer 500". It is like a very thick paint but dries hard and wet sands easily. A key to puttying models: Spend your time dry-fitting and trimming the pices before gluing them rather than sanding filler afterwards. Also, only use the minimum amount of filler. Minimum filler addition = minimum filler removal = minimum detail lost. Don't bother with a gray primer (or any primer at all) - it just hides detail. If you want to check for defects, paint it your final color. Inspect, sand, fill, and sand as needed, then wash it clean and paint the final coats. It's always worked as good as anything else for me. KL ----- Original Message ----- From: behillman I tried filling some holes, etc. with "Squadron Putty" on some F&C resin kit parts and it didn't stick good at all; broke out of the holes very easily after a several day drying time. Any one with ideas about how to use it on resin? Apparently the two don't like to adhere well. Also, when trying to apply small amounts of "Squadron Putty" it dries very quickly on the surface and doesn't allow you to spread it around easily. It's base is "Toluene". Anyone try to, say, mix it with some more toluene, maybe, or another solvent, to extend it's work-ability? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.851 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3101 - Release Date: 08/29/10 14:34:00
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Re: Squadron Putty & Resin Kits
Kurt Laughlin <fleeta@...>
I was talking about putty, not liquid cement.
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KL
----- Original Message -----
From: Andy Carlson I don't like 5-minute epoxy, it should be left behind at your store, unpurchased.
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Squadron Putty & Resin Kits
Andy Carlson
I have been a big fan of Ace Hardware's "2-Ton" epoxy, a long cure rate 50/50
epoxy. It seems to have a finished harness which mimics the styrene base material well, which when sanding/filing doesn't recess, saving having to do a 2nd or more additional coats. Drills, taps and reinforces well on styrene. With a hole to fill, by placing a taut piece of clear Scotch Tape bridging the gap, a back-fill of epoxy gives a repair which mostly doesn't even require any sanding. I don't like 5-minute epoxy, it should be left behind at your store, unpurchased. -Andy Carlson Ojai CA ________________________________ From: Kurt Laughlin <fleeta@...> To: STMFC@... Sent: Sun, August 29, 2010 1:40:30 PM Subject: Re: [STMFC] Squadron Putty & Resin Kits To thin or keep soft Squadron and other similar putties, use Testor's Liquid Cement. The thinner it is, the more it shrinks, though. I agree with the others that resin is best filled with thick (gap-flling) superglue. Accellerator helps the process. You must sand it soon after it dries, however, because overnight it will become harder than the resin (bad for sanding). Large areas (1/8 inch diameter or more) are best filled with some epoxy putty. The hardware store stuff is fine. For pinholes, use a Gunze Sangyo product, "Mr. Surfacer 500". It is like a very thick paint but dries hard and wet sands easily. A key to puttying models: Spend your time dry-fitting and trimming the pices before gluing them rather than sanding filler afterwards. Also, only use the minimum amount of filler. Minimum filler addition = minimum filler removal = minimum detail lost. Don't bother with a gray primer (or any primer at all) - it just hides detail. If you want to check for defects, paint it your final color. Inspect, sand, fill, and sand as needed, then wash it clean and paint the final coats. It's always worked as good as anything else for me. KL ----- Original Message ----- From: behillman I tried filling some holes, etc. with "Squadron Putty" on some F&C resin kit parts and it didn't stick good at all; broke out of the holes very easily after a several day drying time. Any one with ideas about how to use it on resin? Apparently the two don't like to adhere well. Also, when trying to apply small amounts of "Squadron Putty" it dries very quickly on the surface and doesn't allow you to spread it around easily. It's base is "Toluene". Anyone try to, say, mix it with some more toluene, maybe, or another solvent, to extend it's work-ability? [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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