Date   

Re: Shipping Rose Stock By Rail

Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
 

Dave Evans wrote:
I suspect when Bob describes Rose "stock", he is referring to actual rose plants, not cut flowers.
Yes, and my post confused that point by mentioning cut flowers also. The Tyler, Texas rose business was rose plants, as well as I can remember.

There is a slight chance J-P may have been in Ohio, I just can not recall.
Jackson-Perkins is pretty much national. They have a very large facility just south of Portland, Oregon but doubtless have others around the country. Incidentally, the Portland location is far from coincidental--a major holiday in Portland is the spring Rose Festival, as it's a terrific climate for roses.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@...
Publishers of books on railroad history


Re: Shipping Rose Stock By Rail

devansprr
 

-- In STMFC@..., Anthony Thompson <thompson@...> wrote:

Bob Chaparro wrote:
I attended a local historical meeting at which the speaker discussed
his family's rose growing business.
This was a very large operation and shipped rose stock all over the
country. He mentioned that they shipped roses in refrigerator cars
from the 1940s through the 1960s.
Does anyone know more details about shipping rose stock in
refrigerator cars?
PFE maintained for many years a significant business in cut
flowers, shipped in express refrigerators, from the west coast to all
other parts of the country. Another case: I recall in my interview
with PFE's former AGM for Car Service, that he had been on a survey
team that went to the Cotton Belt in 1932 when SP obtained control of
that road, to evaluate what services PFE would have to perform on the
SSW. To their surprise, there was virtually no perishable shipping
from anywhere on the Cotton Belt, with only one exception: the roses
shipped from Tyler, Texas, which he said was a significant business.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, thompson@...
Publishers of books on railroad history
All,

I suspect when Bob describes Rose "stock", he is referring to actual rose plants, not cut flowers. My Grandfather (56+ years PRR), was also an avid rose grower, and after his retirement his primary hobby was evaluating (and photographing) new rose plants from both Starr Roses and Jackson-Perkins (?) to see how they grew and produced flowers in the Pittsburgh area. In the 1960's I recall my grandfather traveling to Southeastern Pennsylvania (somewhere SE of Lancaster) to meet with the rose companies, and I am pretty sure I recall driving past at least one of these growers - rose bushes in full bloom for over a mile along a road - amazing.

I believe this area of PA was one of the major producers of Rose stock in the US (but I could be completely wrong - I may have just been young and overly impressionable), and I suspect the shipments from these two producers went all over the country. There is a slight chance J-P may have been in Ohio, I just can not recall.

I'll check over on the PRRT&HS site to see if anyone recalls the PRR doing significant plant/rose stock business out of that area (I think near Gap, PA, along the PRR main). An interesting cargo, but IIRC plants were shipped dormant in either the fall/winter/or early spring for spring planting. So no bounty of colors for this load.

Dave Evans


Re: Chateau Martin box car

Charlie Vlk
 

Dave-
It looks like we're back to the 1001 being a unique car. The patch job was the first paint scheme; full paint was later.
Charlie

----- Original Message -----
From: Tim O'Connor
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Tuesday, November 09, 2010 3:43 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Chateau Martin box car



Charlie,

The 1003, 1005, 1006, 1008 were all ex-GPEX General American-Pfaulder
milk tank cars. I wouldn't be surprised if 1002-1009 were all this type.

I think 1001 was unique.

Also I think the "patch job" version of 1001 was its originally second
hand appearance, until it was fully repainted for Chateau Martin. So it
was short lived in that scheme (less than 2 years?).

The scan I have of GPEX 1003 also is a "patch job" where the milk company
lettering is painted out.

Tim O'Connor

At 11/9/2010 02:32 PM Tuesday, you wrote:
>Since my Westerfield ORER collection brackets the dates the 1001-1009 appear, is there any indication that the 1002-1009 were the same type boxcar as the 1001 (which had full Charteau Martin paint and patch job CMWX)?
>
>A manufacturer is interested in doing these cars in N Scale and wants to know what the cars looked like beyond the two schemes for the 1001.
>
>Charlie Vlk
>Railroad Model Resources


Re: ORER assistance

Brian Carlson
 

I figured I'd hear from you, just wanted to see who else i may be able to tap for information in the future.
Brian

--- On Wed, 11/10/10, Ray Breyer <rtbsvrr69@...> wrote:


From: Ray Breyer <rtbsvrr69@...>
Subject: Re: [STMFC] ORER assistance
To: STMFC@...
Date: Wednesday, November 10, 2010, 1:43 PM


 



Got ya covered Brian (why didn't you just ask me in the first place?). I'll light you up offlist!

Ray Breyer
Elgin, IL

--- On Tue, 11/9/10, Brian J Carlson <prrk41361@...> wrote:

From: Brian J Carlson <prrk41361@...>
Subject: [STMFC] ORER assistance
To: STMFC@...
Date: Tuesday, November 9, 2010, 9:59 PM
I'm about to start an article for our
NKPHTS magazine on the NKP Freight car
fleet. I'd like to augment my ORER data. Since I model 1957
most of my
issues revolve around this time frame. I'm looking for
people willing to
scan the NKP and WLE sections of the ORERs from the 20's
thru 1950. It would
not have to be every issue obviously but I'd like to build
up sufficient
information to develop a relatively complete picture. If
anyone is
interested in helping me with this project please contact
me OFF LIST.
Thanks. I'm thinking I'll have the basis for a clinic or
two for RPM meets
as I go too.

Brian J. Carlson, P.E.
Cheektowaga NY
prrk41361@...





------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


    STMFC-fullfeatured@...









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: ORER assistance

Ray Breyer
 

Got ya covered Brian (why didn't you just ask me in the first place?). I'll light you up offlist!

Ray Breyer
Elgin, IL

--- On Tue, 11/9/10, Brian J Carlson <prrk41361@...> wrote:

From: Brian J Carlson <prrk41361@...>
Subject: [STMFC] ORER assistance
To: STMFC@...
Date: Tuesday, November 9, 2010, 9:59 PM
I'm about to start an article for our
NKPHTS magazine on the NKP Freight car
fleet. I'd like to augment my ORER data. Since I model 1957
most of my
issues revolve around this time frame. I'm looking for
people willing to
scan the NKP and WLE sections of the ORERs from the 20's
thru 1950. It would
not have to be every issue obviously but I'd like to build
up sufficient
information to develop a relatively complete picture. If
anyone is
interested in helping me with this project please contact
me OFF LIST.
Thanks. I'm thinking I'll have the basis for a clinic or
two for RPM meets
as I go too.

Brian J. Carlson, P.E.
Cheektowaga NY
prrk41361@...





------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


    STMFC-fullfeatured@...



Suncoast Models FGEX Wood Kit

gary laakso
 

I located in my stash a circa 1972 $9.95 Suncoast Models FGEX wood kit. It has the body of the 12'-11" FGEX car but it has an all wood roof. I assume that it ought to have the steel roof used by FGEX , WFEX and BREX. The wood sides do not have the lower steel reinforcement sill and I am not sure how that can be represented.
I may build this and keep in my "period piece" group to show how very far kits have been transformed to the better. I did build 2 of the WFEX version of the kits, albeit one is much shorter then the other in 1972 and my building skills have improved along with the kits.


gary laakso
south of Mike Brock
vasa0vasa@...


Re: Durable Stirrups?

Frederick Freitas <prrinvt@...>
 

GUYZ,
 
I've had good luck using WKW Goo applied with a pin to the mounting lugs.
Haven't had a step failure in operation. so far, so good.
 
Fred Freitas

--- On Tue, 11/9/10, Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...> wrote:


From: Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...>
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Durable Stirrups?
To: STMFC@...
Date: Tuesday, November 9, 2010, 10:45 PM


 



I've used A-Line stirrups in cases where I wasn't too particular
about the prototype, or where the prototype definitely used a
bottom-mount sill step.

But some steps were side-mount, or a combination of side-bottom
or even side-end mount. And that's where the tough plastic steps
from Detail Associates, Tichy and others do a good job. They are
not so likely to break as they are to fall off, as they resist
most glues!

I'd had very good luck with metal steps in Westerfield kits, and
you can do neat things with them like correctly tilt them outwards
which you can't do with the molded plastic steps.

The 1937 AAR box cars had very distinctive sill steps, so I always
use the plastic kit steps for my Red Caboose/IMWX box cars. Then as
Richard says, I keep 'em away from the club. ;-)

Tim O'Connor

Victor, all of my HO scale rolling stock is designed to operate on a
diorama and to be handled periodically for maintenance, etc.
Mercifully, I don't have to deal with the ham-fisted bozos who seem
inevitable on most club layouts, but in my experience plastic sill
steps that are molded on or cemented in place are either grossly
oversize and out of scale or so fragile as to be vulnerable to even
reasonably careful handling. For that reason, my long-standing
practice is to replace them wherever possible with A-Line metal steps
(which, incidentally, are less expensive if purchased in bulk than in
individual retail packages). I heat each step to a dull red with my
resistance soldering tool and then quench it in water; this makes it
easy to bend the step to whatever exact configuration may be required
without breaking it. I then blacken it with a chemical blackening
agent before installing it, as the black coating takes paint better
than bare metal and tends to prevent unwanted shine from the metal if
the paint gets rubbed off. The A-Line steps are slightly over-scale,
but not much, and look quite realistic as well as being resistant to
any damage that might result from a derailment, etc. Worst case
scenario is that they get bent, and - having been annealed before
installation - they can easily be bent back into position and touch-
up paint applied if necessary. FWIW -

Richard Hendrickson







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


ADMIN: Re: Re: RPM Etiquette

mike brock <brockm@...>
 

Dennis Williams says:

"And now, ladies and gentlemen, Mrrrr. Ed!!!!!"

Since I have not the faintest idea of what frt car Dennis refers to, I suppose it is time to terminate this thread...some might say it was time a week ago. So...it is NOW terminated.

Mike Brock
STMFC Owner


Re: RPM Etiquette

Dennis Williams
 

And now, ladies and gentlemen, Mrrrr. Ed!!!!!
Dennis Williams
www.resinbuilders4u.com

--- On Tue, 11/9/10, Anthony Thompson <thompson@...> wrote:


From: Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Re: RPM Etiquette
To: STMFC@...
Date: Tuesday, November 9, 2010, 6:33 PM


 



Rich Ramik wrote:
Okay guys, does the phrase "beating a dead horse" come to mind on
this subject?
Yep, ya sure are. <g>

Tony Thompson
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937;
e-mail: thompson@...


Re: Con Cor Watermelon car

Tim O'Connor
 

Both Intermountain and Overland (!!!) are now selling Con-Cor RTR
models. Anyone know if these are custom runs or if they are selling
them as distributors only?

Tim O'Connor

Ed Mines asked:
"Is Con-cor still in business?"

Yes. Not much new for this group (unless you count a reissue of the Revell gon
with a scrap load as a new model), but plenty of great stuff in HO scale for the
steam to diesel transition era, particularly lightweight train sets such as the
UP M-10000, CB&Q Pioneer Zephyr, and GM Aerotrain, plus PRR mP54 coaches,
combines, and baggage-mail cars.
http://www.all-railroads.com/


Ben Hom


Re: Pullman troop sleep car question

Tim O'Connor
 

The Allied full cushion trucks were 50 ton rated trucks.
Bruce Smith
Which means that the axle-load limit was 42,250 lbs, or
169,000 lbs total for a 4-axle car. This was raised some
time in the 1960s to 44,250/177,000.

Tim O'Connor


Re: Pullman troop sleep car question

lnnrr <lnnrr@...>
 

Let us pray that WWIII never happens. If it does, hopefully it will
not only be out of the steam era but past the diesel era as well.
Chuck Peck

--- In STMFC@..., "Dave Nelson" <Lake_Muskoka@...> wrote:

Anyone know what the typical loaded weight of a WWIII Pullman built troop
sleeper was?



Or the axle capacity on the Allied trucks they rode on?



Thanks in advance to anyone who answers!



Dave Nelson





Re: Durable Stirrups?

Tim O'Connor
 

Good idea, Richard, I'll have to try it!

Tim O'Connor

A good point, Tim, but you're correct that those tough plastic steps
tend to fall off, even when affixed with CA, and I regard a step that
falls off (probably to never be seen again) to be as bad as one that
breaks off. However, I have a solution which I should have mentioned
in my earlier post. With side-mounted steps, I cement the kit steps
securely in place and then cut them off flush with the bottom of the
side sill. I then drill holes for the A-Line steps as close as
possible to the outside edges of the side at the locations of the
step attachment points and at an angle such that the steps are at
about a 30 degree angle. Then after the metal steps are secured with
CA, I bend them so they extend downward vertically, or at the same
angle as on the prototype (remember, I annealed the steps so they
bend easily). The result is a metal step which will neither break
nor fall off, and comes close enough in appearance to the prototype
that I'm satisfied. YMMV, of course.

Richard Hendrickson


Re: Durable Stirrups?

Richard Hendrickson
 

On Nov 9, 2010, at 7:45 PM, Tim O'Connor wrote:

I've used A-Line stirrups in cases where I wasn't too particular
about the prototype, or where the prototype definitely used a
bottom-mount sill step.

But some steps were side-mount, or a combination of side-bottom
or even side-end mount. And that's where the tough plastic steps
from Detail Associates, Tichy and others do a good job. They are
not so likely to break as they are to fall off, as they resist
most glues!
A good point, Tim, but you're correct that those tough plastic steps
tend to fall off, even when affixed with CA, and I regard a step that
falls off (probably to never be seen again) to be as bad as one that
breaks off. However, I have a solution which I should have mentioned
in my earlier post. With side-mounted steps, I cement the kit steps
securely in place and then cut them off flush with the bottom of the
side sill. I then drill holes for the A-Line steps as close as
possible to the outside edges of the side at the locations of the
step attachment points and at an angle such that the steps are at
about a 30 degree angle. Then after the metal steps are secured with
CA, I bend them so they extend downward vertically, or at the same
angle as on the prototype (remember, I annealed the steps so they
bend easily). The result is a metal step which will neither break
nor fall off, and comes close enough in appearance to the prototype
that I'm satisfied. YMMV, of course.

Richard Hendrickson


ORER assistance

Brian Carlson
 

I'm about to start an article for our NKPHTS magazine on the NKP Freight car
fleet. I'd like to augment my ORER data. Since I model 1957 most of my
issues revolve around this time frame. I'm looking for people willing to
scan the NKP and WLE sections of the ORERs from the 20's thru 1950. It would
not have to be every issue obviously but I'd like to build up sufficient
information to develop a relatively complete picture. If anyone is
interested in helping me with this project please contact me OFF LIST.
Thanks. I'm thinking I'll have the basis for a clinic or two for RPM meets
as I go too.

Brian J. Carlson, P.E.
Cheektowaga NY
prrk41361@...


Re: Durable Stirrups?

Tim O'Connor
 

I've used A-Line stirrups in cases where I wasn't too particular
about the prototype, or where the prototype definitely used a
bottom-mount sill step.

But some steps were side-mount, or a combination of side-bottom
or even side-end mount. And that's where the tough plastic steps
from Detail Associates, Tichy and others do a good job. They are
not so likely to break as they are to fall off, as they resist
most glues!

I'd had very good luck with metal steps in Westerfield kits, and
you can do neat things with them like correctly tilt them outwards
which you can't do with the molded plastic steps.

The 1937 AAR box cars had very distinctive sill steps, so I always
use the plastic kit steps for my Red Caboose/IMWX box cars. Then as
Richard says, I keep 'em away from the club. ;-)

Tim O'Connor

Victor, all of my HO scale rolling stock is designed to operate on a
diorama and to be handled periodically for maintenance, etc.
Mercifully, I don't have to deal with the ham-fisted bozos who seem
inevitable on most club layouts, but in my experience plastic sill
steps that are molded on or cemented in place are either grossly
oversize and out of scale or so fragile as to be vulnerable to even
reasonably careful handling. For that reason, my long-standing
practice is to replace them wherever possible with A-Line metal steps
(which, incidentally, are less expensive if purchased in bulk than in
individual retail packages). I heat each step to a dull red with my
resistance soldering tool and then quench it in water; this makes it
easy to bend the step to whatever exact configuration may be required
without breaking it. I then blacken it with a chemical blackening
agent before installing it, as the black coating takes paint better
than bare metal and tends to prevent unwanted shine from the metal if
the paint gets rubbed off. The A-Line steps are slightly over-scale,
but not much, and look quite realistic as well as being resistant to
any damage that might result from a derailment, etc. Worst case
scenario is that they get bent, and - having been annealed before
installation - they can easily be bent back into position and touch-
up paint applied if necessary. FWIW -

Richard Hendrickson


Re: Durable Stirrups?

Richard Hendrickson
 

On Nov 9, 2010, at 9:15 AM, wabash2813 wrote:

I've been communicationg with a manufacturer recently about the
delicate HO stirrups on their freight cars. He is of the opinion
that there is no alternative and still keep them to scale size. It
seems to me that after market parts are much more durable and we do
have some flat wire versions that are scale and durable. And I
believe Details Associates makes some out of a flexible plastic
material? He is going to send me spares on a sprue but I think in
the long term I would rather replace them with something more durable.

Folks what are your thoughts on this?
Victor, all of my HO scale rolling stock is designed to operate on a
diorama and to be handled periodically for maintenance, etc.
Mercifully, I don't have to deal with the ham-fisted bozos who seem
inevitable on most club layouts, but in my experience plastic sill
steps that are molded on or cemented in place are either grossly
oversize and out of scale or so fragile as to be vulnerable to even
reasonably careful handling. For that reason, my long-standing
practice is to replace them wherever possible with A-Line metal steps
(which, incidentally, are less expensive if purchased in bulk than in
individual retail packages). I heat each step to a dull red with my
resistance soldering tool and then quench it in water; this makes it
easy to bend the step to whatever exact configuration may be required
without breaking it. I then blacken it with a chemical blackening
agent before installing it, as the black coating takes paint better
than bare metal and tends to prevent unwanted shine from the metal if
the paint gets rubbed off. The A-Line steps are slightly over-scale,
but not much, and look quite realistic as well as being resistant to
any damage that might result from a derailment, etc. Worst case
scenario is that they get bent, and - having been annealed before
installation - they can easily be bent back into position and touch-
up paint applied if necessary. FWIW -

Richard Hendrickson


Re: Durable Stirrups?

Bill Vaughn
 

A line brass steps work great.

--- On Tue, 11/9/10, wabash2813 <reporterllc@...> wrote:

From: wabash2813 <reporterllc@...>
Subject: [STMFC] Durable Stirrups?
To: STMFC@...
Date: Tuesday, November 9, 2010, 9:15 AM







 









I've been communicationg with a manufacturer recently about the delicate HO stirrups on their freight cars. He is of the opinion that there is no alternative and still keep them to scale size. It seems to me that after market parts are much more durable and we do have some flat wire versions that are scale and durable. And I believe Details Associates makes some out of a flexible plastic material? He is going to send me spares on a sprue but I think in the long term I would rather replace them with something more durable.



Folks what are your thoughts on this?



Victor Baird

Fort Wayne, Indiana

























[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: RPM Etiquette

Anthony Thompson <thompson@...>
 

Rich Ramik wrote:
Okay guys, does the phrase "beating a dead horse" come to mind on this subject?
Yep, ya sure are. <g>

Tony Thompson
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937;
e-mail: thompson@...


Re: RPM Etiquette

RichRamik <richramik@...>
 

Well there are three simple rules we should all follow.

1. Under no circumstances should anyone touch another persons model without permission. Simple - it's not yours.

2. Ask permission of the owner prior to touching in any manner.

3. If the owner is not present and you absolutely, positively have to touch, refer to rule #1.

Even with fellow modelers I have known for decades, I always ask. Okay guys, does the phrase "beating a dead horse" come to mind on this subject?

Thanks,
Rich Ramik

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