Date   

Re: Riveted Plate Ends - was RDG/ Southern box car questions

 

Another missing detail part needed in HO. I am planning on making a Reading XMu and BXMu and would like to know if anyone makes them. Those Reading boxes fit in with the current discussion.
 
Rich Christie

--- On Thu, 12/9/10, EDWIN HAWKINS <hawk0621@...> wrote:


From: EDWIN HAWKINS <hawk0621@...>
Subject: Re: [STMFC] RDG/ Southern box car questions
To: STMFC@...
Date: Thursday, December 9, 2010, 11:04 AM


 



Dave,
Thanks for your reply. Pat heard about the error earlier.
Take care, Ed

--- On Thu, 12/9/10, Dave Pfeiffer <dave.pfeiffer@...> wrote:

From: Dave Pfeiffer <dave.pfeiffer@...>
Subject: Re: [STMFC] RDG/ Southern box car questions
To: STMFC@...
Date: Thursday, December 9, 2010, 7:26 AM

 

Ed,

Reading XMt box cars 100000 - 100499 had 7/8 corrugated ends. XMt's
100500 - 100999 had riveted plate ends.

Dave Pfeiffer

----- Original Message -----
From: "EdwardM" <ed_mines@...>
To: <STMFC@...>
Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 2010 10:22 AM
Subject: [STMFC] RDG/ Southern box car questions

The new RPC is terrific with many photos I've never seen before.

Did RDG box cars series 100500 have riveted plate ends or 7/8 Murphy ends?
The new RPC says Murphy (p.92). Ted's spiral bound box car reference
manual says riveted ("X29") ends (p.129).

(I have the utmost respect for the gentlemen connected with both
publications).

Were the ends of the taller RDG USRA steel box cars (101000-102999)
identical to the ends of the flat ended Seaboard & NC&StL box cars? The
sides must have had significantly different river patterns, right? Was
there ever a Red Ball kit for these cars? I think there was a cast end.

Did the AHM door box car have the Murphy solid steel roof that most of
these USRA steel box had? How close were these models to Southern's double
door, ds box cars?

Ed



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Unsual routings?

Clark Propst
 

Excel doesn't transfer well. The loads were out of Watertown Minn. One went to Philly and the other to Brooklyn.
Clark Propst


Re: Reading class HTf and HTh hoppers

ed_mines
 

--- In STMFC@..., I wrote: Both versions can be seen in the Cline/Culotta NMRA book.

My mistake. Only the car with the flat end.

About 30 years ago I acquired some blue prints with O scale drawings of RDG rolling stock. They looked to be ancient then.

For the cars without rivets crowd theres a nice HO part aproximating the Murphy panel we've been discussing - the IM USRA gon end.

Does IM still offer parts? How about Red Caboose?

Ed


Re: Reading hoppers

anthony wagner
 

Thanks very much for this info. A friend and I actually model the NYC & PRR in
central Pennsylvania circa 1949 but RDG hoppers were pretty commonplace,
especially if one includes the RDG connection at Newberry Jct. Just wanted to
portray the RDG's cars correctly. Tony Wagner



________________________________
From: David Owens <daowens@...>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Wed, December 8, 2010 3:54:08 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Reading hoppers


On Wed, Dec 8, 2010 at 4:16 PM, Bruce Smith <smithbf@...> wrote:

On Dec 8, 2010, at 10:44 AM, tonyw738 wrote:

Can anyone tell me when the RDG began using the red "Worlds Largest
Anthracite Carrier" logos on its new hopper cars, as well as on
older cars that were repaired and repainted in the company's shops?
Tony,

That scheme came into being circa 1942 (IIRC). George Losse's
excellent page on READING hoppers (http://www.georgelosse.com/
shamokin/?p=2776) has a nice photo of HTf 87994 reweighed STC 12-43.

Also, how long would older cars without that logo have been seen in
service?
Cars in the older scheme lasted past WWII. There is at least one,
perhaps more photos in the Kline & Culotta Postwar Freight Car Fleet
book.

Regards
Bruce

Bruce F. Smith
Auburn, AL
http://www.vetmed.auburn.edu/index.pl/bruce_f._smith2

"Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield."
__
/ &#92;
__<+--+>________________&#92;__/___ ________________________________
|- ______/ O O &#92;_______ -| | __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ |
| / 4999 PENNSYLVANIA 4999 &#92; | ||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||
|/_____________________________&#92;|_|________________________________|
| O--O &#92;0 0 0 0/ O--O | 0-0-0 0-0-0


It wasn't a hopper photo that came up when I hit that truncated link!

Dave Owens

--
2011 New England/Northeast Prototype Modelers Meet
June 3-4, 2011 (Always the weekend after Memorial Day)
Collinsville, Connecticut
www.neprototypemeet.com



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: RDG/ Southern box car questions

Ed Hawkins
 

Dave,
Thanks for your reply. Pat heard about the error earlier.
Take care, Ed

--- On Thu, 12/9/10, Dave Pfeiffer <dave.pfeiffer@...> wrote:


From: Dave Pfeiffer <dave.pfeiffer@...>
Subject: Re: [STMFC] RDG/ Southern box car questions
To: STMFC@...
Date: Thursday, December 9, 2010, 7:26 AM


 



Ed,

Reading XMt box cars 100000 - 100499 had 7/8 corrugated ends. XMt's
100500 - 100999 had riveted plate ends.

Dave Pfeiffer

----- Original Message -----
From: "EdwardM" <ed_mines@...>
To: <STMFC@...>
Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 2010 10:22 AM
Subject: [STMFC] RDG/ Southern box car questions

The new RPC is terrific with many photos I've never seen before.

Did RDG box cars series 100500 have riveted plate ends or 7/8 Murphy ends?
The new RPC says Murphy (p.92). Ted's spiral bound box car reference
manual says riveted ("X29") ends (p.129).

(I have the utmost respect for the gentlemen connected with both
publications).

Were the ends of the taller RDG USRA steel box cars (101000-102999)
identical to the ends of the flat ended Seaboard & NC&StL box cars? The
sides must have had significantly different river patterns, right? Was
there ever a Red Ball kit for these cars? I think there was a cast end.

Did the AHM door box car have the Murphy solid steel roof that most of
these USRA steel box had? How close were these models to Southern's double
door, ds box cars?

Ed



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links










[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Multiple Micro Sol Applications

Jim Betz
 

Hi,

Another method I've used - often - is to wait about 10-15
minutes and then wick up the excess decal setting solution
with small bits of paper towel. I cut the towel into small
pieces about 3/4" square and just touch it to the edge of
the wet spot and it draws up the wetness. Do NOT touch the
decal - it is very fragile when it is wet.
This is not different from using a brush in terms of the
basic concept ... but the small pieces of paper towel seem
to pick up more fluid in a single 'pull'. I just toss
them into the waste basket when they are fully saturated
and pick up another if needed. I usually hold the corner
or edge of the small piece of paper towel in a pair of
tweezers.
When I wick off the excess this way the decal will dry
fairly quickly - and if you get it dry enough you can even
float a 2nd/3rd 'coat' of setting solution before it has
fully dried.

Personally, I have ruined several decals trying to prick
the air bubbles when the decal is still wet. If you don't
put the needle/pin point straight down and pick it straight
up ... if you 'drag' it horizontally during either motion ...
it will catch the decal and ruin/damage it.
Having said that - if the decal is still 'just moist' I
find that pricking when it is in that state works better
than when it is fully dry.
If you position your hand correctly and ensure the pin
is moving only vertically ... you can do this. And, in
fact, I am able to do a rapid/bouncing kind of movement
that tap-tap-taps all over the surface of both large and
small decals without damage. And I don't pay particular
attention to whether or not I am hitting the bubbles
directly/only. If the bubble is large then I will prick
it several times.
If the decal has fully dried at least once - I find that
I can "prick with abandon".
My decal tapping device of choice is one of the 2" long
straight pins that have a round plastic ball head. I find
them much easier to hold.

All of this is about your fine motor control - I find
that if I "land" some part of my hand to the model first
that I have much better fine motor control. I use the
heel of my hand if possible (similar to using a computer
mouse) but often find I have to use my little finger or
something like that - and have to use parts of the model
such as the corners or stirrup steps for a "grounding
point".
- Jim


Re: Unsual routings?

al_brown03
 

Two questions: (1) Did the first shipment come from the same Green Giant plant as the second? I'm looking at that "PRR-LV-PRR" and thinking "shipper-specified routing", but then five days later they ship by a different route. (2) Where'd PRR hand off to LV: Buffalo? Seems circuitous, but Allentown makes even less sense for a shipment to Philly.

The destinations are different Green Giant plants, but either routing could be used for either destination. I'm sure others understand this better than I.

Al Brown, Melbourne, Fla.

--- In STMFC@..., Clark and Eileen <cepropst@...> wrote:

Below are a couple intersting routings for SFRD reefers from west of Minneapolis to somewhere on the Pennsy.

Date Initials Number Type From F City,State To T City,State Route Contents
1/15/1954 SFRD 36014 RS Green Giant Philadelphia PA Green Giant MW-MNS-RI- PRR-LV-PRR 350 12oz corn, 1250 7oz corn
1/20/1954 SFRD 14638 RS Green Giant Watertown MN Green Giant Brooklyn NY MW-MNS-RI-CSS&SB-PRR 300 12oz corn LeSuer White, 1015 7oz corn

Clark Propst
Mason City Iowa

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Round Roof - the conclusion

Bill Lane
 

I would like to thank all that replied to my posts. It is sincerely
appreciated. It looks like we are going with N & W. Something a little
different...









Thank You,
Bill Lane

Modeling the Mighty Pennsy & PRSL in 1957 in S Scale since 1988

See my finished models at:
<http://www.lanestrains.com/> http://www.lanestrains.com
Look at what has been made in PRR in S Scale!

Custom Train Parts Design
<http://www.lanestrains.com/SolidWorks_Modeling.htm>
http://www.lanestrains.com/SolidWorks_Modeling.htm

PRR Builders Photos Bought, Sold & Traded
(Trading is MUCH preferred)
<http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRphotos.xls>
http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRphotos.xls

***Join the PRR T&HS***
The other members are not ALL like me!
<http://www.prrths.com/> http://www.prrths.com
<http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRTHS_Application.pdf>
http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRTHS_Application.pdf

Join the Pennsylvania Reading Seashore Lines Historical Society
It's FREE to join! <http://www.prslhs.com/> http://www.prslhs.com
Preserving The Memory Of The PRSL


Unsual routings?

Clark Propst
 

Below are a couple intersting routings for SFRD reefers from west of Minneapolis to somewhere on the Pennsy.

Date Initials Number Type From F City,State To T City,State Route Contents
1/15/1954 SFRD 36014 RS Green Giant Philadelphia PA Green Giant MW-MNS-RI- PRR-LV-PRR 350 12oz corn, 1250 7oz corn
1/20/1954 SFRD 14638 RS Green Giant Watertown MN Green Giant Brooklyn NY MW-MNS-RI-CSS&SB-PRR 300 12oz corn LeSuer White, 1015 7oz corn

Clark Propst
Mason City Iowa


Re: Multiple Micro Sol Applications

Andy Sperandeo <asperandeo@...>
 

Hello Brody,

It's best to let one application dry completely before making another. If the decal is still soft when you make a subsequent application, you may distort or damage the lettering.

Good luck, and

Merry Christmas,

Andy

Andy Sperandeo
Executive Editor
Model Railroader magazine
asperandeo@...
262-796-8776, ext. 461
FAX 262-796-1142


Re: Multiple Micro Sol Applications

Bruce Smith
 

On Dec 9, 2010, at 8:02 AM, jerryglow@... wrote:

I seldom wait very long. I apply it with a dedicated soft brush and soak up the excess off the model with the brush. I was a custom painter for 10 years and could not afford to wait 10-12 hours as some have recommended.

Jerry Glow
And I'll add that if you let it dry, then any bubbles that form are harder to get rid of. I'm not sure I understand the concern about tearing. I usually add micro-sol or whatever I am using to the edge of the decal and let it pull under by capillary action. If you let the decal dry, this becomes a lot harder. My wait time between applications is usually about 20-30 minutes.

Regards
Bruce

Bruce F. Smith
Auburn, AL
http://www.vetmed.auburn.edu/index.pl/bruce_f._smith2

"Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield."
__
/ &#92;
__<+--+>________________&#92;__/___ ________________________________
|- ______/ O O &#92;_______ -| | __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ |
| / 4999 PENNSYLVANIA 4999 &#92; | ||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||
|/_____________________________&#92;|_|________________________________|
| O--O &#92;0 0 0 0/ O--O | 0-0-0 0-0-0


Re: Multiple Micro Sol Applications

jerryglow2
 

I seldom wait very long. I apply it with a dedicated soft brush and soak up the excess off the model with the brush. I was a custom painter for 10 years and could not afford to wait 10-12 hours as some have recommended.

Jerry Glow
http://home.comcast.net/~jerryglow/decals.html

--- In STMFC@..., "Brody" <northtowner@...> wrote:


If using multiple applications of Micro Sol on a decal, how long should I wait between applications? Advice will be appreciated.


Re: RDG/ Southern box car questions

Dave Pfeiffer
 

Ed,

Reading XMt box cars 100000 - 100499 had 7/8 corrugated ends. XMt's 100500 - 100999 had riveted plate ends.

Dave Pfeiffer

----- Original Message -----
From: "EdwardM" <ed_mines@...>
To: <STMFC@...>
Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 2010 10:22 AM
Subject: [STMFC] RDG/ Southern box car questions


The new RPC is terrific with many photos I've never seen before.

Did RDG box cars series 100500 have riveted plate ends or 7/8 Murphy ends? The new RPC says Murphy (p.92). Ted's spiral bound box car reference manual says riveted ("X29") ends (p.129).

(I have the utmost respect for the gentlemen connected with both publications).

Were the ends of the taller RDG USRA steel box cars (101000-102999) identical to the ends of the flat ended Seaboard & NC&StL box cars? The sides must have had significantly different river patterns, right? Was there ever a Red Ball kit for these cars? I think there was a cast end.

Did the AHM door box car have the Murphy solid steel roof that most of these USRA steel box had? How close were these models to Southern's double door, ds box cars?

Ed



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links




Re: Plan 2b Single door Round Roof car

David
 

--- In STMFC@..., "Bill Lane" <bill@...> wrote:

Thanks again for the reply. It is the flush roof. I thought I had the on line N&W photos but cannot find them.
N&W class B-1
46000-46999, Ralston 1936-7
47000-47499, Pressed Steel 1937

http://spec.lib.vt.edu/imagebase/norfolksouthern/full/NS2892.jpeg
http://spec.lib.vt.edu/imagebase/norfolksouthern/full/NS2893.jpeg
http://spec.lib.vt.edu/imagebase/norfolksouthern/full/NS2894.jpeg
http://spec.lib.vt.edu/imagebase/norfolksouthern/full/NS2986.jpeg

Note that the roadname with 'AND' spelled out is correct for a post-1948 repaint until these were rebuilt with peaked roofs in the mid-1950s.


David Thompson


Re: Multiple Micro Sol Applications

Brody <northtowner@...>
 

I thank you and rutlandrs for your comments.

I wonder if 12 hours would be enough time for Micro Sol to dry or are 24 hours needed?

Max

--- In STMFC@..., RDG2124 <RDG2124@...> wrote:

You can let it completely dry then apply a second application or let it go to a damp instead of a wet look before applying more.  Avoid adding while still wet in appearance else your decal may wrinkle or move ruining the decal.  If air bubbles occur, when the decal looks just about dry prick them with a sewing needle then apply more Micro Sol.

Evan Leisey
Bennett, CO


-----Original Message-----
From: Brody northtowner@...
To: STMFC STMFC@...
Sent: Wed, Dec 8, 2010 7:53 pm
Subject: [STMFC] Multiple Micro Sol Applications

 
If using multiple applications of Micro Sol on a decal, how long should I wait between applications? Advice will be appreciated.







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Multiple Micro Sol Applications

RDG2124 <RDG2124@...>
 

You can let it completely dry then apply a second application or let it go to a damp instead of a wet look before applying more.  Avoid adding while still wet in appearance else your decal may wrinkle or move ruining the decal.  If air bubbles occur, when the decal looks just about dry prick them with a sewing needle then apply more Micro Sol.

Evan Leisey
Bennett, CO

-----Original Message-----
From: Brody <northtowner@...>
To: STMFC <STMFC@...>
Sent: Wed, Dec 8, 2010 7:53 pm
Subject: [STMFC] Multiple Micro Sol Applications

 
If using multiple applications of Micro Sol on a decal, how long should I wait between applications? Advice will be appreciated.







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: RDG/ Southern box car questions

Bill Welch
 

The 5,000 Southern DS DD cars had Hutchins roofs and inset Dreadnaught ends. I am not familiar with the AHM model.

The SAL/NC&StL had flat plate riveted ends similar to the RDG cars and a similar if not identical roof. Since the SAL/NC&StL cars are the 1932 ARA design they have five riveted panels while the RDG car has four panels on each side of the door. The side sills are very different.

Bill Welch

--- In STMFC@..., "EdwardM" <ed_mines@...> wrote:

The new RPC is terrific with many photos I've never seen before.

Did RDG box cars series 100500 have riveted plate ends or 7/8 Murphy ends? The new RPC says Murphy (p.92). Ted's spiral bound box car reference manual says riveted ("X29") ends (p.129).

(I have the utmost respect for the gentlemen connected with both publications).

Were the ends of the taller RDG USRA steel box cars (101000-102999) identical to the ends of the flat ended Seaboard & NC&StL box cars? The sides must have had significantly different river patterns, right? Was there ever a Red Ball kit for these cars? I think there was a cast end.

Did the AHM door box car have the Murphy solid steel roof that most of these USRA steel box had? How close were these models to Southern's double door, ds box cars?

Ed


Multiple Micro Sol Applications

Brody <northtowner@...>
 

If using multiple applications of Micro Sol on a decal, how long should I wait between applications? Advice will be appreciated.


Re: Plan 2b Single door Round Roof car

Bruce Smith
 

"Bill Lane" <bill@...> 12/08/10 6:29 PM >>>
Ben,
Thanks again for the reply. It is the flush roof. I thought I had the
on line N&W photos but cannot find them.

Bill,

Try Virginia tech at
http://imagebase.lib.vt.edu/browse.php?folio_ID=/trans/nss

While not the resource you're thinking of, also check out the N&WHS.
They have lots of class B1 boxcar stuff on-line or available for order
at: http://www.nwhs.org/archivesdb/listdocs.php?index=rs&id=433

Regards
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL


Re: NP Round Roof Box Car

J.A. Phillips
 

Bill All-

The ex-DTI cars leased from Morrison to the NP were written up by Chris Frissell of Montana in two recent issues of the NP Historical Association's _Mainstreeter_ (with photos). You should be able to buy copies from the NPRHA Company Store on the Interweb at www.nprha.org -- happy shopping!

John Phillips
Seattle

''The walls of his heart were like paper. But he kept it to himself. He kept a lot to himself.'' -- Doctor Zhivago (1965)

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