Date   

Re: PFE Reefer...Too Many Doors?

michael bishop <goldrod_1@...>
 

Not only does it have extra doors, it has extra ice hatches.
http://www.billspennsyphotos.com/apps/photos/photo?photoid=82586974
 
Michael Bishop

--- On Sat, 5/7/11, Bob C <thecitrusbelt@yahoo.com> wrote:


From: Bob C <thecitrusbelt@yahoo.com>
Subject: [STMFC] PFE Reefer...Too Many Doors?
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, May 7, 2011, 11:55 PM


 



Is it just my old eyes or does this look like a PFE reefer with two sets of doors on one side? I believe this is a Class R-40-30 mechanical reefer.

http://www.billspennsyphotos.com/apps/photos/photo?photoid=82586975

Bob Chaparro
Hemet, CA








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


PFE Reefer...Too Many Doors?

Bob C <thecitrusbelt@...>
 

Is it just my old eyes or does this look like a PFE reefer with two sets of doors on one side? I believe this is a Class R-40-30 mechanical reefer.

http://www.billspennsyphotos.com/apps/photos/photo?photoid=82586975

Bob Chaparro
Hemet, CA


Re: new this week

mopacfirst
 

I KNEW I'd seen details of this car somewhere. Thanks for jogging my short memory.

Ron Merrick

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Ed Hawkins <hawk0621@...> wrote:


On May 6, 2011, at 8:01 PM, mopacfirst wrote:
<snip>

Ron,
The ARLX 1-2000 cars were significantly different from that R-40-23 in
many ways. Please refer to my article in RP CYC Volume 21 <snip>
Regards,
Ed Hawkins

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: new this week

Clark Propst
 

Odd balls has a set that'll do either the TRAX or PCX cars.

But, like most of his sets there are bits missing and he wasn't able to get a good maroon for the large Armour letters. I would suggest buying a set from Jerry to compliment the Oddballs set. I doing just that for my Stan Rydarowicz TRAX kit. Stan said he'd be making the PCX kit soon.

It appears (to me) that the first few TRAX cars had black roofs, but this was soon changed to roofs painted the same color as the sides.
Clark Propst

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "mopacfirst" <ron.merrick@...> wrote:

Sorry, another question. Does the decal have reporting marks PCX or TRAX for the later cars?

Ron Merrick


Re: new this week

jerryglow2
 

No but as I replied to Gene re dates, that could be done by request on an order - a beauty of the process I use.

Jerry Glow

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "mopacfirst" <ron.merrick@...> wrote:

Sorry, another question. Does the decal have reporting marks PCX or TRAX for the later cars?

Ron Merrick

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "mopacfirst" <ron.merrick@> wrote:

So I see in the Refrigerator Car Guide that the car (ARLX 1-2000) bears a good resemblance to the R-40-23, not counting the meat-reefer door style. The date built says to me that these cars probably had rectangular panel roofs. Can't see the ends really clearly in any of the photos in this book, but they seem to be R3-3 IDE type. What's that rod on the rightward side of the end? One or both ends?

The old Classic Freight Car series reefer book has several Armour shots, but of the later ART-style cars.

Ron Merrick


--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Gerald Glow <jerryglow@> wrote:

I've just completed artwork and taking orders for decals for an Armour
steel reefer.<snip>
--
Jerry Glow
The Villages FL
http://home.comcast.net/~jerryglow/decals.html


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: new this week

jerryglow2
 

I have built dates of 10-48 and 2-49 as I understand the production was over a bit of a period. Three reweight dates are given for '51,52,and 53 but I can offer customizaed sets on request.

Jerry Glow

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Gene" <bierglaeser@...> wrote:

Jerry,
Both decals look very nice. What date built and reweigh date have you put on the "Armour-orig" decal?
Gene Green

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Gerald Glow <jerryglow@> wrote:

I've just completed artwork and taking orders for decals for an Armour
steel reefer.
See: Armour reefer specify origina
<http://home.comcast.net/%7Ejerryglow/samples/Armour-orig.jpg>l or
billboard <http://home.comcast.net/%7Ejerryglow/samples/Armour.jpg>
(post 1952) style
--
Jerry Glow
The Villages FL
http://home.comcast.net/~jerryglow/decals.html


Re: new this week

Ed Hawkins
 

On May 6, 2011, at 8:01 PM, mopacfirst wrote:

So I see in the Refrigerator Car Guide that the car (ARLX 1-2000)
bears a good resemblance to the R-40-23, not counting the meat-reefer
door style. The date built says to me that these cars probably had
rectangular panel roofs. Can't see the ends really clearly in any of
the photos in this book, but they seem to be R3-3 IDE type. What's
that rod on the rightward side of the end? One or both ends?

The old Classic Freight Car series reefer book has several Armour
shots, but of the later ART-style cars.
Ron,
The ARLX 1-2000 cars were significantly different from that R-40-23 in
many ways. Please refer to my article in RP CYC Volume 21 for views of
the ARLX Depressed Panel Roof (much different than the Murphy panel
roof used on the R-40-23) and Improved Dreadnaught Ends that lacked
intermediate minor corrugations (again, different than the ends used on
the R-40-23). In addition to a scaled general arrangement drawing made
from the original ACF drawing, included is a full-page end view (ACF
builder's photo) as well as an overhead view of the roof taken at an
Erie Railroad icing station.

In Oct. 2010 Sunshine released a urethane kit of the ARLX 1-2000
reefers. Due to the extreme complexity of the roof, Sunshine could not
duplicate the tapered depressions that the prototype cars had, but I
think the roof is "passable" as it is considering the difficulty of
creating an accurate scale model. To produce the roof correctly would
probably take one cut by CNC.

The vertical rod on each end was to activate draining of the brine
tanks. In the article I would have liked to feature a separate drawing
of this mechanism, but the ACF drawing of this detail was not in the
ACF drawing collection at the Museum of Transportation.
Regards,
Ed Hawkins


Re: new this week

Gene <bierglaeser@...>
 

Jerry,
Both decals look very nice. What date built and reweigh date have you put on the "Armour-orig" decal?
Gene Green

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Gerald Glow <jerryglow@...> wrote:

I've just completed artwork and taking orders for decals for an Armour
steel reefer.
See: Armour reefer specify origina
<http://home.comcast.net/%7Ejerryglow/samples/Armour-orig.jpg>l or
billboard <http://home.comcast.net/%7Ejerryglow/samples/Armour.jpg>
(post 1952) style
--
Jerry Glow
The Villages FL
http://home.comcast.net/~jerryglow/decals.html


Re: UTLX tank car -- is this an ACF Type 21 ?

Tim O'Connor
 

Brian

Thanks, good observation. I hadn't thought of that.

Tim O'

http://bnsfsd70.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=1895237
Tim O'
Looks like an X-3. Notice the stubby side sills. On an X-3 the channels face in, AC&F channels face out.

Brian Leppert
Carson City, NV


Re: new this week

mopacfirst
 

Sorry, another question. Does the decal have reporting marks PCX or TRAX for the later cars?

Ron Merrick

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "mopacfirst" <ron.merrick@...> wrote:

So I see in the Refrigerator Car Guide that the car (ARLX 1-2000) bears a good resemblance to the R-40-23, not counting the meat-reefer door style. The date built says to me that these cars probably had rectangular panel roofs. Can't see the ends really clearly in any of the photos in this book, but they seem to be R3-3 IDE type. What's that rod on the rightward side of the end? One or both ends?

The old Classic Freight Car series reefer book has several Armour shots, but of the later ART-style cars.

Ron Merrick


--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Gerald Glow <jerryglow@> wrote:

I've just completed artwork and taking orders for decals for an Armour
steel reefer.<snip>
--
Jerry Glow
The Villages FL
http://home.comcast.net/~jerryglow/decals.html




Re: new this week

mopacfirst
 

So I see in the Refrigerator Car Guide that the car (ARLX 1-2000) bears a good resemblance to the R-40-23, not counting the meat-reefer door style. The date built says to me that these cars probably had rectangular panel roofs. Can't see the ends really clearly in any of the photos in this book, but they seem to be R3-3 IDE type. What's that rod on the rightward side of the end? One or both ends?

The old Classic Freight Car series reefer book has several Armour shots, but of the later ART-style cars.

Ron Merrick

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Gerald Glow <jerryglow@...> wrote:

I've just completed artwork and taking orders for decals for an Armour
steel reefer.<snip>
--
Jerry Glow
The Villages FL
http://home.comcast.net/~jerryglow/decals.html


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: UTLX tank car -- is this an ACF Type 21 ?

brianleppert@att.net
 

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...> wrote:

http://bnsfsd70.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=1895237

Tim O'
Looks like an X-3. Notice the stubby side sills. On an X-3 the channels face in, AC&F channels face out.

Brian Leppert
Carson City, NV


Re: The Chopper

Pieter Roos
 

Hi Steve;

Yes, that's it! To my surprise, it seems it's still available:

http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/clr/clr2.htm

I've done OK with it, I had to do a bit of work on the stop but it will cut small styrene if handled carefully.

Pieter Roos
Connnecticut

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Lucas" <stevelucas3@...> wrote:

Pieter--

My wife bought me a "K-Tool miter" about twenty years ago. Here's one offered recently on fleabay--

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p4340.l2557&item=130513001059&nma=true&rt=nc&si=uPDqds8zgzaOvSx1Csh8SX14V2s%253D#ht_500wt_959

I found it good for cutting turnout ties and other large-section HO timber where close tolerances are not critical, but not so useful for the smaller stuff. There is simply too much play in the arm and adjustable stop for fine cutting to make smaller parts. But the included Zona saw blade has proven useful for cutting up styrene kits!

Steve Lucas.

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Pieter_Roos" <pieter_roos@> wrote:


A couple of years after the original Chopper was released, a competing design was offered by another manufacturer which did allow the arm to be rotated, and also accepted a razor saw blade and allowed the arm to slide for use of the saw. I have not seen it for sale for years.

Pieter Roos
Connecticut


UTLX tank car -- is this an ACF Type 21 ?

Tim O'Connor
 


Re: The Chopper

Steve Lucas <stevelucas3@...>
 

Pieter--

My wife bought me a "K-Tool miter" about twenty years ago. Here's one offered recently on fleabay--

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p4340.l2557&item=130513001059&nma=true&rt=nc&si=uPDqds8zgzaOvSx1Csh8SX14V2s%253D#ht_500wt_959

I found it good for cutting turnout ties and other large-section HO timber where close tolerances are not critical, but not so useful for the smaller stuff. There is simply too much play in the arm and adjustable stop for fine cutting to make smaller parts. But the included Zona saw blade has proven useful for cutting up styrene kits!

Steve Lucas.

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Pieter_Roos" <pieter_roos@...> wrote:


A couple of years after the original Chopper was released, a competing design was offered by another manufacturer which did allow the arm to be rotated, and also accepted a razor saw blade and allowed the arm to slide for use of the saw. I have not seen it for sale for years.

Pieter Roos
Connecticut


Re: Modelling welded seams on boxcars...

Steve Lucas <stevelucas3@...>
 

Thanks to everyone for the very useful suggestions.

Greg, I'll give your method a try. I've already printed off your post and put a copy in the kit box. I remember reading your technique in MM in the early '90's and had always been looking to try it.

Steve Lucas.

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, tgregmrtn@... wrote:


Steve,

Why do folks modeling HO Scale believe that you should "model" weld seams? When you think about how small they actually are why not just forget scribing them or adding something that would be a scale ½" or MORE?

Here's what I describe regarding weld seams in our Shake N Take clinic in Cocoa Beach a couple years back.


Determine where exactly where the weld seams would appear on the car and...
Create a small styrene jig the width of the panel and...
On a painted (Basic car color) car after decaled...
use an Orange Colored pencil (or if the car is another color like black ...use white colored pencil) draw a line following the jig to each side creating what the eye will perceive to be a weld seam and...
Immediately next to that Orange line strike a darker line so as to create a line for the weld seam and a hard shadow.
When the lines are drawn with a Post-it note sheet use a contrasting color to each side of the seam. i.e. what I call "plus Red" to the right and "Plus orange" orange to the left, a narrow faint over spray, not hiding the lines ...
weather to taste
I might add that I try to simulate this with a color that is darker for the shadow or lighter for the seam so that it stands out and use a color similar to the car's color when it is other than Freight Car Red (which I use orange for FCC).
KEEP YOUR PENCIL SHARP!

This gives the illusion that there is a clear difference to each panel and highlights the weld seam without adding an unrealistic bulge to the panels. I realize it takes a couple extra steps to completing the car but once done you'll never go back.

If you were modeling in say O Scale I might think differently but not in Ho Scale.

Greg Martin






-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Lucas <stevelucas3@...>
To: STMFC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, May 5, 2011 12:56 pm
Subject: [STMFC] Modelling welded seams on boxcars...




I have an undec Branchline kit for a 40`, 10`-6`i.h., ten-panel rivetted-seam boxcar. I want to model a GTW 515500-515999 series AC&F-built 12-panel welded seam car using it and RailCad decals (prototype photo bottom of page 100 RMJ Boxcars, Book 1).

Any suggestions as how best to model the welded side sheet seams on this car? I've thought of simply scribing them into the styrene, but maybe Archer welded seam decals might look better?

Thanks in advance,

Steve Lucas.







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: ARMOUR Reefers (was: new this week)

Clark Propst
 

Sorry, I switched the mix around. Should be

2-3 parts yellow to 1 part orange.

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, cepropst@... wrote:

Steve I just painted two IM reefers I redid with Stan's parts (doors, ends, roof) and one of his TRAX reefer kits.

After looking at the photos of several cars with new paint in Gene's reefer book. I mixed Floquil Reefer Yellow and SP Daylight Orange. Maybe 1 part yellow 2-3 parts orange. I'm pleased with the mix.

The cars I remember seeing had all darkened from age. I simulate this with an overspray of a rust color.

Clark Propst

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Hoxie" <stevehprr@> wrote:


What shade of yellow/orange was used originally on the ARMOUR steel reefers? Can it be as easy as UP Armour Yellow?

Steve Hoxie
Pensacola FL


Re: ARMOUR Reefers (was: new this week)

Clark Propst
 

Steve I just painted two IM reefers I redid with Stan's parts (doors, ends, roof) and one of his TRAX reefer kits.

After looking at the photos of several cars with new paint in Gene's reefer book. I mixed Floquil Reefer Yellow and SP Daylight Orange. Maybe 1 part yellow 2-3 parts orange. I'm pleased with the mix.

The cars I remember seeing had all darkened from age. I simulate this with an overspray of a rust color.

Clark Propst

--- In STMFC@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Hoxie" <stevehprr@...> wrote:


What shade of yellow/orange was used originally on the ARMOUR steel reefers? Can it be as easy as UP Armour Yellow?

Steve Hoxie
Pensacola FL


Re: The Chopper

Jack Burgess
 

<Jack,
<
<I think I'm following you; but as they say, a picture is worth a lot.
<
<gary roe
<quincy, illinois

Done...a couple of photos are now posted in the Photo section in the Folder
entitled "NWSL Chopper Mods":

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/STMFC/photos/album/597511428/pic/list

The Chopper 2 photo shows the raiser for the pivot arm and the new "cutting
surface" with the fence glued to it. Look carefully and you can see that the
fence is actually two pieces of styrene with a slot of the razor blade. The
fence extends an inch or so to the right of the blade and overhangs the
"stop block" sliding plate. This provides better accuracy for cutting long
pieces of wood or styrene.

The Chopper 2 photo shows the styrene "stop block" sliding plate better and
a piece of styrene being readied for cutting. I usually have the clamp for
the sliding plate in the far right threaded hole and I'm not sure why I had
it in the other hole for these photos (they were taken years ago for a
clinic).

What isn't obvious from this photo is that the width of the sliding plate is
such that it can be turned 180 degrees and clamped in place and the stop
block will still end up flush with the fence. With it in the position shown
in the photos (but using the far right clamp position), it can cut pieces up
to about 2" (real) inches long. If the sliding plate is turned 180 degrees,
you can cut pieces up to 4" long.

Jack


Re: The Chopper

Andy Harman
 

At 05:34 PM 5/5/2011 -0700, you wrote:
I've toyed with a number of ideas of how to make the length stop adjustable
via a screw drive...many times I set the stop and cut a piece of styrene
only to find that it is a couple hundredths too long or too short. Rather
than loosen the clamp for the stop and try to slide it one way or the other,
I'd prefer to adjust it via a screw. I'd also like to be able to design a
rotating pivot for the arm in order to easily cut angles, much like a chop
saw.
I think there is a market for a *precision* chopper tool with the adjustments you describe. It would seem that those who are getting use out of these have modified them in some way. Or in the language of model railroading, they're not exactly RTR.

Andy

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