On the NP flatcar I recently built, it came with both a peel and stick and a resin deck. I ended up using the resin deck - was happier with the appearance of painted "wood", in my opinion the peel and

I think you need to lie and say they're good for UP. Bet that'll get instant approval. <VBG> Are they the same pics you posted on the M&StL list? I viewed them there this morning. Jerry Glow

<VBG> I'm trying! He's on life 9 I think... Regards Bruce Smith

I've added two more photos to the photo section file that no one wants to approve. These two show the power hand brake conglomeration I came up with for the WP and MP cars. I used a piece of a Ajax

Easy fix Bruce,get rid of the cat <VBG>Armand Premo

I've been adding a few new sets and listing some not previously listed. Among them are sets for PRR X29, B&O M26, UP PS-0, ACY rebuilt boxcar, and flatcars for MP and WP. As usual, they're available

Yes, a third thanks and to repeat what Clark stated, thank you for going the extra mile. I had found the a letter in NP files having to do with Duluth steel mill letter regarding car shortages era

Hi Joe, I will be using the JJL Erie caboose for sure when I get there. I have two NE cabooses, just need to learn when the L&HR were re-sheathed so I can do that one correctly. The RMC article is

Thanks, Pierre. I can imagine that xylene is tough on styrene. It also occurred to me after writing my post that a primer undercoat might be contributing to the problems I'm having. I have a little

Check out Bethlehem Car Works and JJLModels for caboose kits that you could use. Joe Lofland [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Bob, The only difference between Scalecoat I and II is the ratio of naptha to xylene. II has more naptha which prevents it crazing styrene. So the caveats remain. Pierre Oliver

Thanks Jerry and Bruce. This particular model will have a thin resin top to attach the deck to. So the deck should have something solid to adhere to. I've only had 3 or 4 'squares' come off the 3

Hi, Although I am modeling the New Haven Railroad, I want to run DL&W, LNE, L&HR and Erie consists into Maybrook (only one train each, from staging for interchange - and sorry, the Old & Weary was

Clark, When building steam era flat cars, I can go either way on the peel and stick decks. On the plus side, they usually stick really well and I've never had a problem with one coming off. On the

I'm playing around with some color combinations using paints of different types. To get a certain hue I dearly want to overspray a Tamiya lacquer over a Scalecoat undercoat. I know this doesn't work

Bill Darnaby wrote: "Rather than use Sunshine parts, unless that is your only option, use the Speedwitch M-26D/E kit which is more accurate and the instructions have better UF photos (of the

After giving up trying to thin the too thick deck on my Intermountain AAR 70 ton flatcar, I wrote for a replacement and the peal and stick worked fine. Jerry Glow

Great spread sheet. Thanks for going the extra mile. The two M&StL stock cars were leased from General American. They are not P2K Mathers cars. Clark Propst

Chad is considering buying the flat car decks with a peel n stick backing. I think this is used often in laser kits, but I'm not familiar with the product. Guess is for those with experience: Do you

MON 3011 42’ GB Fixed ends, steel floor Steel   This car (on the "Need ID to a Model" page) is modeled by Sunshine 67.38.  See:   http://sunshinekits.com/sunimages/sun67f.pdf   Thank you for