I don't think you're going to find a specialized shape like rail much cheaper than nickel silver esp if you can salvage the rail from used track. Jerry Glow

I had the same situation when making a coil load of real soft iron wire. I made one wrap coils on the bottom layer and multiple wrap ones on top. I just can't see any manufacturer making plastic rail

Bud Rindfleisch

FWIIW: In Classic Freight Cars Vol. 3 by John Henderson are 3 pics of CN 8-hatch reefers: 1 with hinged doors, photographed at Ft. Worth, TX and 2 w. plugdoors pictured at Kansas City, Missouri and

I would have an interst in buying code 83 rail. How much is the question. I can think of several projects but the quantity of 6 piece package is great; just one per project. Jim

Jerry One problem with real rail is WEIGHT. A gondola or flat that weighs the NMRA recommended amount (or even more than that) becomes ridiculously heavy with a full (realistic) load of nickel silver

Jerry I consided myself as the average modeler. So I want to build and detail a track gane center with some out buildings and with one or two piles of different sizes of rail and have a section

I recently discovered that by September 1936 the National Perishable Freight Committee was publishing a booklet entitled Icing Stations. As recently as 1929, this list had appeared with a slightly

Tim, If you want injection molded parts, then why bother Evergreen, who are not an injection-molding company? Why not find a mfr of plastic freight cars to do the hat-sections? You might even

All,   The July/August 2011 issue of The B&O Modeler is uploaded to the Society website at http://www.borhs.org/modelermag/index.html featuring the following articles:   Modeling B&O’S Class I-13

Bill and Jerry, The initial posting (if I'm remembering correctly) dealt with the possibilirty of modeling a "welded rail train"... which cannot be done with actual rail due to it's rigidity. There

--- In STMFC@..., "Bill Schneider" <bschneider424@...> wrote: Assuming the gon load or scenic use, then wouldn’t 39 scale feet work better? > > Bill Schneider > > I don't understand

Thanks Jerry, I was wondering that myself! For the few places on my layout that I needed rail shapes I used cut-off bits of rail. About the only place that I really could see a use for plastic rail

I don't understand the need for it - what's wrong with real rail? Jerry Glow

Thanks Bill Ed

John I don't think Evergreen would be susceptible to anything longer than 36" as this would present shipping and displaying problems. I have taken two structural shapes and put them together

Hello Mike and Group, Let's not complicate things... White material is OK. I believe that most of us would paint and weather our own and white is a good place to start. Cheers, Bill Keene Irvine,

I'd vote for rail-shapes in various cross sections as well -- very useful when the rest of the structure is in styrene. I'd also vote for molding the rail-shapes in a "rail brown" color.

Hi Ed, and All, I would be interested in the code 83 and 55 in long lengths. This is a much needed item for detailing many structures. It was often used for making fences and hose racks, etc

Ron I have dealt in designing model projects in the NPRHA and have found when we did a model and produced it in HO scale the first thing we heard was "when are you going to do this in N Scale?" and