There are many possibilities for the use of styrene rail. Not only for D&H modellers of the steam era that will have CWR next the running rails to be put in track (did any other road use much CWR in

A would use it to fill isolating gaps cut in rails for appearance and to make even flow of rail,I would prefer white plastic to best match ns rail,it would also be useful for guardrails in complex

I don't think you're going to find a specialized shape like rail much cheaper than nickel silver esp if you can salvage the rail from used track. Jerry Glow

I had the same situation when making a coil load of real soft iron wire. I made one wrap coils on the bottom layer and multiple wrap ones on top. I just can't see any manufacturer making plastic rail

Bud Rindfleisch

FWIIW: In Classic Freight Cars Vol. 3 by John Henderson are 3 pics of CN 8-hatch reefers: 1 with hinged doors, photographed at Ft. Worth, TX and 2 w. plugdoors pictured at Kansas City, Missouri and

I would have an interst in buying code 83 rail. How much is the question. I can think of several projects but the quantity of 6 piece package is great; just one per project. Jim

Jerry One problem with real rail is WEIGHT. A gondola or flat that weighs the NMRA recommended amount (or even more than that) becomes ridiculously heavy with a full (realistic) load of nickel silver

Jerry I consided myself as the average modeler. So I want to build and detail a track gane center with some out buildings and with one or two piles of different sizes of rail and have a section

I recently discovered that by September 1936 the National Perishable Freight Committee was publishing a booklet entitled Icing Stations. As recently as 1929, this list had appeared with a slightly

Tim, If you want injection molded parts, then why bother Evergreen, who are not an injection-molding company? Why not find a mfr of plastic freight cars to do the hat-sections? You might even

All,   The July/August 2011 issue of The B&O Modeler is uploaded to the Society website at http://www.borhs.org/modelermag/index.html featuring the following articles:   Modeling B&O’S Class I-13

Bill and Jerry, The initial posting (if I'm remembering correctly) dealt with the possibilirty of modeling a "welded rail train"... which cannot be done with actual rail due to it's rigidity. There

--- In STMFC@..., "Bill Schneider" <bschneider424@...> wrote: Assuming the gon load or scenic use, then wouldn’t 39 scale feet work better? > > Bill Schneider > > I don't understand

Thanks Jerry, I was wondering that myself! For the few places on my layout that I needed rail shapes I used cut-off bits of rail. About the only place that I really could see a use for plastic rail

I don't understand the need for it - what's wrong with real rail? Jerry Glow

Thanks Bill Ed

John I don't think Evergreen would be susceptible to anything longer than 36" as this would present shipping and displaying problems. I have taken two structural shapes and put them together

Hello Mike and Group, Let's not complicate things... White material is OK. I believe that most of us would paint and weather our own and white is a good place to start. Cheers, Bill Keene Irvine,

I'd vote for rail-shapes in various cross sections as well -- very useful when the rest of the structure is in styrene. I'd also vote for molding the rail-shapes in a "rail brown" color.