Just wanted to straighten out the record about all the early names of Reefer companies and who owned what. My source is on page 299 of March 1905 issue of "Everybody's Magazine" in the first part of a

Very interesting... I think the c'52 date on the RPI site with a script herald makes sense. The reweigh date isn't very clear, but seems to be '52 or '53 to me. The F&C instructions also include a

It may be a "Texas thing," but I can buy gallon-sized cans of lacquer thinner at Home Depot. Along with Naphtha, MEK, and lots of other good organic solvents. Jerry Michels

I don't think this is the part I am referring to Dick. The fitting I am speaking of had no ability to keep the door tight against the side. The function of the strap I am talking about was to keep the

Don, I have had similar problems with Yahoo. What I do to correct is to close the image file and start over again, which usually gets rid of the yahoo hiccup. Last night I found I somehow missed three

Steve, My plan for the couplers is as follows. Trim the end off of a #58 or similar coupler (should even work with a Sergent) by cutting parallel to the shaft, through the hole. This will get the

All, The following articles should help anyone trying to model the D&H or B&O converted cement cars from the 1930s. D & H 40'SS Cement hopper boxcars (Tichy) - Mainline Modeler June 1994,

Gene, is there a way to obtain these as a single ZIP file. The Next and Previous, and many of the links themselves that Yahoo provides are all scrambled and get stuck in a loop. Thanks. Don Strack

My underframe arrived this week. It is interesting to think about how it was created. Has anyone figured out how to mount a coupler in the draft gear? It won't fit a Kadee or an Accumate.

Gene Green, Thanks for posting the roof photos. Could you please contact me off-list to answer a question? allencain@... Thanks, Allen Cain

Hi Folks, As Dan has discovered, I posted a number of ads and a couple of magazine articles for freight car roofs in an album in the photo section entitled "Roofs, freight car." I have posted only

At Accurail we just did a custom job where we had to use Scalecoat II to match the color; the folks at Weaver recommended common paint store naphtha for thinning. Dennis

They're related to the door rub strips used on double sheathed cars to keep the door from scuffing the car siding, in the case of a single sheathed car they attach to the sheathing and angle out

The MM article includes a photo of the roof: looks to me like a Hutchins. (The "carlines" have that distinctive bolt toward the outer end.) Al Brown, Melbourne, Fla.

Beats me John, it just a little strip. I though gussets usually tied things together and reinforced the connection. Bill Welch

Hello Jim; Actually, the article by Greg Smith in Vol 2, No.1 of the B&O Modeler on the M24 cement cars contains more information than I have seen in the articles and photos of the D&H cars. In

Sounds like you are talking about a "Door Rail" or a "Side Door Bottom Guide" which is defined in the 1931 CBC as an iron bracket attached to the side of freight cars having sliding doors to guide

Gene Green, thanks for posting to Photos section Great stuff, especially the Hutchins. Dan Sweeney, Jr. Alexandria, VA

Agree with you there Chuck. I got the photos from Ron and they are very impressive models. Top class modelling and weathering there. I found the photos of the OMI model of the car. But they are quite

You mean the gussets? -- John