Hi Brad, Actually, for this particular car the "correct" answer is pretty simple: "Anything goes, knock yourself out" Based on the photos that I have of the 13000-series cars, some were delivered in

Gene, I'm coming from the same direction you are - thinking of producing parts primarily for my own use. My take-home on this is that it would be useful to pick some reference dimensions on the

Brad, to get a useful answer, you have to tell us what year the car was painted (not the year it was built, unless you're modeling the 1930s). I'm going to assume that you're modeling the

Bruce, I totally agree with you. I know some people who never build trains but who do many other things -- lay track, implement incredibly complex wiring, create beautiful scenery, etc -- and some who

Fellas, I would appreciate advice on paint colors for this car. Seeking paint colors for: underbody Roof Roof walk Sides and Ends Thanks in advance, Brad Andonian Seattle

Dennis, Thanks for your input. Both you and Al W. mentioned changes in the size of the rubber mold over the course of its use. THAT is really a surprise. Your last sentence - "If you can't quantify

Thanks, Tom. Very interesting. I've seen "consumer" sized packaging of the rubber and resin for modelers but I don't recall specifications. Maybe inside the package, huh? May I assume that the

No plan to produce kits. Just thinking of maybe making some parts, etc. for myself. Gene Green

I remember in the mid late 60's hobby shops were dropping trains since nobody was buying "train sets" anymore, they just wanted slot cars. Finding anything but basic model railroad supplies was

The Hobby is changing. It's always changing. IMO a fair number of people do not understand one big way it is changing: a lot of model railroads have given up on physical models and have migrated

Don, Why? Why this need to pigeon-hole? Why can't we all be "modelers? That's the term I use, because that term is broad, inclusive and flexible. It simply implies some interest in reproducing

Gene, It's been a very long time since I've had to deal with this, and you've gotten some good answers already, but I'll throw out some thoughts... All the "industrial grade" mold and casting

I’ve only even this thread a passing glance, but thought Tim’s email about ‘top’ modelers not weathering was interesting. Seems with RTR stuff its easy to take the model out of the box, place

Have you considered that the proper term for these folks might be "model builders" as opposed to "modelers". When I think of a "modeler" what comes to mind is someone who tries to capture

Gene – I agree with Tom; it’s trial and error. For my primary production master I used a very hard rubber to reduce sink. However, the mold would shrink between the first and second casting and

Tim, I am not sure if you are pulling my leg, or if you have missed my point, as the whole essence was that many who start with building don't weather things (which I think is a shame but this is

Gene, it depends on the rubber/resin combination. They're all different, and it will be on the materials' spec sheets. I use a low-shrink resin that's more expensive than what many use, and it and the

Gene, I know one producer of resin cast cars who made his first first master 3% oversize only to have the caster tell him after the first run was cast that there was no shrinkage in the process. If

I've been thinking about my questions below. What I should have asked is, "Who can tell me about shrinkage and what should I know?"

Tim, As they say, "You are preachin' to the choir" Greg Martin Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it. Norman Maclean _timboconnor@...