Thanks, I ordered a set from Andrew this afternoon. Charlie Duckworth ---In STMFC@..., <b.hom@...> wrote: Charlie Duckworth asked: "I have a Tichy USRA SS boxcar I'd like to finish as an Ann Arbor

Dave North wrote: But "stronger" is not what you want. Thermal expansion and contraction forces are REALLY big. You want flexible, which is why canopy cement is better than CA (CA is far sronger

Charlie Duckworth asked: "I have a Tichy USRA SS boxcar I'd like to finish as an Ann Arbor boxcar.  Been looking around the web but don't see that there are any decals available.  Anyone on the list

Westerfield offers decals for the AA USRA SS boxcars. Geoffrey Barbier Allentown, PA ---In STMFC@..., <omahaduck@...> wrote: I have a Tichy USRA SS boxcar I'd like to finish as an Ann Arbor

I have a Tichy USRA SS boxcar I'd like to finish as an Ann Arbor boxcar. Been looking around the web but don't see that there are any decals available. Anyone on the list know of any decals that

Thanks, everyone. Knowing next to nothing about UP freight cars, I picked up one of these on a whim very cheap at a show, intending it mainly to add to my small collection of mainly post-steam

I’m with Rich on this ‘sticker shock’ thing. I’m just finishing a Sunshinemini-kit with a P2K single door 50 fter kit as a core. Price on the box is $7.Seems like only yesterday I was at

Hi Steve, The added benefit I have found with Canopy Glue is that it dries flexible and provides a flexible membrane between the styrene and etched metal. This helps to deal with the different

 Ben, I will mail separately a roof top view of a GN15000series car, a former Erie-Lackawanna car. Staffan Ehnbom

Thank you for valued help, Richard, and my appreciation also for your RMJ series on AAR 1940s boxcars. am noticing also that at least one close up of the C&O roof shows the cross members to be

The UP A-50-17 class was built during 1941-2. The "New" date should reflect that...as does the photo in the late Terry Metcalfe's book on UP frt cars. Mike Brock

Bob A Proto 2000 double-door end-door is the correct style for a UPA-50-17. (Note: The end-door P2K models still have the bad roofs on them.The roof was only corrected on the models that had no

Sorry, I accidently hit the send key before finishing editing the email and completing the signature block. Bob, I believe the paint scheme is too new for your era. The ends and roof are too

The paint scheme appears to be too new for your era. The ends and roof are too old for a new date in 1956. For 1956 there should be a diagonal panel roof and the latest Post-war dreadnaught ends.

What's the verdict on this model: http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/932-41657 with NEW stencil date 9-56? Thanks, Bob Sterner St. Paul, MN

For attaching running boards to plastic model STMFC rooves, I use solvent. Place the running board on the roof, applying solvent to the running board brackets with a small brush. I apply more solvent

Ben, the Viking roofs applied to 1937 and 1942 AAR steel box cars by C&O, Erie, NKP, C&NW, etc. were of the same design as those applied to the C&NW rebuilds, and they fitted the bodies in exactly the

Pacer are the manufacturers of Canopy Glue. The stock number is PT-56 And as both Tony and Rob McLear said, it works. Cheers Dave North

I ordered some yesterday after Tony posted the blog item... This stuff better be the greatest thing since sliced bread, after all the gushing praise I have heard here!

I have an Extra Funaro Resin Kit , HO Scale, 6914 - Twin Tank Milk Car 52' Flatcar Series 1459-1469 (Ends Less Poling Pockets) with Extended Bell Tanks and Decals for Borden's, Abbott's, Renken's,