Don’t be too quick to judge Walthers as doing something inaccurate. In as much as we know it happens. The accuracy of The ORERs’ isn’t 100%, as I have found dates on cars in photos that don’t

That's a useful suggestion. I hadn't seen those before, perhaps because of where they are listed. I parted with my last Front Range cars a few weeks ago, courtesy of someone on this list who has a

Hi Bob, In the far-left foreground is a Santa Fe raised-roof Bx11 or Bx12 class. Either of these can be represented in HO by one of my favorite Westerfield kits. (See "Build resin freight car kits"

I've got one of the D&RGW cars under construction on my workbench. Beautiful gold & silver cars. I've decided to remove the floor and replace it with the vastly superior Accurail underframe -- which

Perhaps it is because the Walthers cars are bogus in that they should have car builder type ends. Barry Bennett, Coventry, England.

This undated photo from another source (I can’t rememberwhere I originally saw it) was reposted on the O Gauge Railroading On-LineForum: http://tinyurl.com/p77mm2s While the detail

schuyler.larrabee@... [STMFC] wrote: Schuyler, The version of the Improved Dreadnaught ends of the Front Range Products 5000 model represent prototype 50'-6" box cars built in 1955 or later.

Can you please expand on that comment? Aren’t the seams welded ??? Best to ya, Mike Bauers Milwaukee, Wi

You don't want to use Archer's weld lines, you want their panel seams. Tom Madden

Should be able to find a good used one for that price. Also look at Harbor Freight as they have a couple in that price range. A problem might be the container to pull the vacuum in.

In response to Ron Merrick's email Ben Hom writes inpart: Ben Hom< Ron, Ben's right, removing the rivets from an existing freight car is far easier and more productive cutting a kit

There is one more way to do the simulated welding. I’ve done road and roof tar lines this way after reading about others doing it. So I certainly didn’t invent it. For those you use a black or

True, I would do the Archer weld lines rather than scribing, which I did thirty years ago and didn't like the appearance of. I used to have to do things like carve off the second (water) hatch off

While resuming my modeling efforts I find I need some additional castings that are too fine to fill molds without vacuum. Obviously I now have no access to a high quality vacuum pump and don't wish

There are two versions of the photo on the page Jim’s link leads to. The one nearer the top of the page has a better resolution, or at least, a higher pixel count. Schuyler

The exchange about “hacking” included (from Ben) a reference to Front Range cars. I’ve had four FR kits kicking around here for a long time. Three No. 5000, 50’ ACF cars, and one ACF 3 Bay

Ron Merrick wrote: "The direct answer to your question is that I'm frankly not sure I can successfully remove rivet detail enough so as to have no trace of it remaining, so I've been reluctant to

Ben: There are quite a few 40' welded-side cars built through the fifties, some of which jumped out at me when I was checking RPCyc 29 for details of the lettering on a Katy dart-not end car which

oh…. It’s Archer [something] Best to ya, Mike Bauers Milwaukee, Wi

There are also very detailed raised urethane decals of a number of different types of welds available in the hobby market. The name escapes me, but its that decal place that pioneered the scale rivet