Postscript: The background to the lettering is RGB 15/23/25, a very dark charcoal that looks almost black. The letters are RGB 41/51/52, a rather dark gray. When you take each of those expressed as a

I dunno... I use Firefox, updated very frequently by Mozilla, and the lettering is almost completely lost in the background color. Several times I needed to use my mouse to highlight the words so

Eric Lombard wrote: There was a drawing for B-50-7, which was a B-50-6 superstructure on a Bettendorf under frame, as had been used on classes B-50-1 thru B-50-4. The class was not built, nor

I see Bob a 26 or 27 ford dates the photo Tom -- Thomas j Cataldo

Was there a time when some gas stations received deliveriesdirectly by tank car? I have come across some possible photographicevidence of this practice and several narrative accounts attesting

George Future does adhere very well but it's not an adhesive - it does not literally melt polystyrene as other adhesives (besides CA) do. But acrylic is tough so I can understand that it holds up to

Randy, I think what you might have is a Southern Pacific B-50-8, built in 1913 by Standard Steel Car Co. The photos referenced are not of high enough resolution for me to examine closely or confirm

Excellent George, I be this would work with styrene rivets onto resin. I have a current project to try this with. Bill Welch

The site is not well coded, I think. For me, the site is fine. When you click on a photo it is enlarged and the rest of the site is darkened. If you close that photo, the rest of the site returns to

Nelson, I have been experimenting using Future (Pledge) as a method to attach resin rivets to styrene on a new project. I have also tried the Future as a glue for thin styrene (.005) in some

Good morning Nelson I saw you message via email on the Resin Builders Group but for some reason I could not log onto Yahoo Groups to respond from my Laptop—I was out of town. So here goes: I have

Assuming you speak about rivets -not nbw's- Archer makes life easy. Many sizes available. Apply rivet strip (any lenght), apply decal softener, coat of primer, paint & lettering, dullcoat. Nothing

Just to continue this discussion of dull or semi-gloss finishes. My wife is a quilter and while we were at a fabric/craft store I wandered off while she was shopping and ended up in the paint

Realizing that it would be pretty difficult in a lot of places, have you tried sanding the resin surface (probably 600 grit or finer) where the rivets are to go? You might get better adhesion with a

Nelson, Here's an easy solution....stop driving yourself nuts and use Archer rivet decals! Regards Bruce Smith Auburn, AL

Nelson. I've given up on Tichy and harvesting athearn rivets and just use Archer decals now. Others may have better luck. I just never got good results with Tichy. Brian J. Carlson

I posted this question on the resin freight car group and got zero input, so I’m broadening the scope by reposting here. I just finished applying rivets to the ends of the sides of four flat

Nelson, Folks, Another excellent source of information and photos on the G22 and all other PRR gondolas is the PRRT&HS book "Pennsylvania Railroad Gondolas" by Al Buchan and Elden Gatwood. That book

Randy, No documents available make a case for #51406 as having been a UP car. Now let me ramble on here.... I tend to ;-) UP classes B-50-7, -8, -9, -10 are a mystery and if anyone has information

What price do you want for the two cars and roofs?