Guys; At least one lot had grabs, but most P&LE and NYC "Greenville" types had ladders. Elden Gatwood

Not a problem Don. And like I said off-group: there are loads of inconsistencies between the written record of D&H Seleys, and what the photo evidence shows. In a modeling context, it's best to find a

Re: D&H Seley hoppers From: Ray Breyer Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2019 08:42:37 PST Hi Don, You forgot three groups of rebuilt D&H Seleys covering the 6851-14000 number block. There were 2213 of these cars

Nelson Moyer inquired has anybody figured out a styrene gig arrangement that works? I make marks on my pliers at appropriate portions for each bend

When I did my P2K P&LE gon I found pics showing it with ladders instead of grabs. My model https://web.archive.org/web/20151002172808/http://home.comcast.net/~jerryglow/modeling/PLE_gon.html

I’ve made styrene jigs for straight, drop, half drop, and corner grab irons as well as straight top mounted uncoupling levers, but I haven’t figured out a jig design for bending bottom mounted

Hi List Members, While browsing the Barriger collection, I can upon this interesting conveyance - it appears to be a box car with the side sheathing removed so it can conveniently carry railroad

All- If there were a way to provide for Ladder Rests in the forming tool that would be useful for locomotive and passenger cars. Maybe one size for the rests would be okay as they were likely sized

I got the one from UMM Usa that has a smooth side on it. I measure the holes using a caliper then find where it matches up on jig and put a couple of pencil makes thrn bend as many ad I need. One

Here is a P2K gondola with grabs I made using my jig. Regards, Jeff Oliver

Maybe I should explain about the drop grabs. I make straight ones with a bit longer legs. I jam the grab into the drop jig, to the stop, and use the divot in the top to hold the wire while I bend the

I wish I could find them because years ago Terry Weigman engraved a pair of "duckbill" pliers to bend grabs for the Proto 2000 gondola. You bent wire to proper width then used the pliers to get the

Here’s a recent tip from the MRH forum. https://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/34779?page=1 Maybe this can inspire something different yet versatile. Eric Hansmann Murfreesboro,

Hi, Here is what I am using. .040 styrene base. I snip the wire ends from the back, the base thickness provides sufficient length to insert into body side holes. No end bends or bolt detail

Many thanks, Tim. These cars are very nicely proportioned (lower height as pointed out by another user) - too bad that they became ordinary box cars in the sixties only. Johannes Modeling the early

Hello Bryian, no, not really. I just assemble a "good-sized" through-freight train (75-80 cars) with a strong western touch, where any UP box car would be a good match. Johannes Modeling the early

Jack, I solved that issue by canting the thing to be bent, using say the set 3 in on one end and 2 in on the other. Not always perfect, I agree. I have contemplated adding styrene spacers to make it

I bought one of those tools decades ago and it doesn’t work for our needs since the spacing of the jaws is too wide. One set of jaws is too short but the next set is too long. Jack Burgess

Bryian, Check out the Shake n’ Take project from a few years ago ;) Regards Bruce Bruce F. Smith Auburn, AL "Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield."

Hi All, I'm looking to start a build project to model refrigerated cars that wore the Oscar Mayer Paint schemes in the mid 1950's I would like to get your input on the following: Sources for