Testors offeredFloquil Thinner and Brush Cleaner, (F110001) as a Diosol replacement. I bought two one pint cans back then, and it seems to work fine. Diosol is a mix of xylene and toluene and probably

I have been using Xylene for 25 years with Floquil paints. The clear Amber could be glase or high gloss. Jeff Coleman

As I remember “retarder” was clear and smelled like xylene; however, “glaze” was brown or rum colored. Al

Hi Denny, It has been quite some time since I've used it, but I suspect your unlabeled bottle of "dark rum" might be Floquil "glaze." In addition to imparting some luster, as opposed to gloss, to

Thanks Randy, I didn't know that. Jim

Danny, I have used Scalecoat thinner for years with no issues. The unknown bottle might be gloss as I believe the FQ retarder was clear. Roger Huber Deer Creek Locomotive Works

The Improved Dreadnaught End was a trademarked design by Standard Railway Equipment Manufacturing Co (SREM). Randy -- Randy Hammill Modeling the New Haven Railroad

I have quite a few of the older square bottle Floquil paints that are still both useful and relatively easy to use. I am running out of Diosol solvent and looking for a substitute peer-grade air

When Central Valley offered their fully detailed underbody for Atheran box cars, I used them to replace virtually all of my blue box boxcar under frames. Gary Laakso Northwest of Mike Brock

All of this brings to mind my days of modifying Athearn cars, since they and MDC were the only games in town. In about 1970 I made a Santa Fe Fe-26 (40' double door box) by cutting up the Athearn

>What is SREM improved? a typo? SREM is Standard Railway Equipment Manufacturing Company, later nicknamed Stanray. The several Dreadnaught ends were their product. Scott Chatfield

SRE is Standard Railway Equipment, later calling itself Stanray, but not in the time zone of this list. Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA 2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA

In reality they are not bars, but ribs pressed into the bottom edge of each sheet that assembles into the door. Each sheet laps over the open pressing on the sheet above and is welded top and bottom,

Based on what Brian says my approach may have been wrong but on one of my Sunshine 1932 models. Clinchfield I think. I spliced together two Menzes/Athearn metal doors to get the correct rib count. I

What is SREM improved? a typo? Jim Hunter

In regards to the terminology, best I can tell the 10’6” IH was added as an optional standard in 1941, and didn’t change again until 1947 when the 10’0” IH was removed from the

Steve. The steel ribs, actually steel bar only appeared on the outside of superior doors. The inside would be flat steel plate. See the photo from Gene Greene’s blog post.

Stephen, Why not scratch build a door with at least minimal detail on the inside? All you need is a photo of a Superior door from the back (maybe a car interior shot), some thin

Sounds like it would work. It won’t be handled, so if you can get it installed it should be fine. Tony Thompson

I am assembling an old IMWX 1937 AAR Boxcar. I have an interior detail kit and am planning on modeling the car with one door open. The wooden floor and walls from the kit will show thru. But the