Hi Doug, Good point, I had not noticed that. Claus Schlund

One can still use an end cutting mill with a bit more care and without such a problem in the mill "lifting" the piece one is working on. As has been pointed out, the greatest problem is anchoring the

I mis-spoke (wrote) earlier when I said the Athearn reefer had two milk cans. Obviously there is only one. I am away from home and was working from memory. I have two of the Athearn cars and I do

Friends, Are the Varney metal boxcars reasonably close to AAR 1932 standard dimensions? I know they are in many ways crude, and there are better alternatives today (F&C resin

Depending on how flat the back of the resin casting is, you can use double sided carpet tape to hold the part down while you are machining it. Use a window razor scrapper to get under the part and pop

I agree with this. The biggest problem with trying to cut on a molded carbody is they can't be clamped very rigidly. The spiral cutter flutes will tend to pull the part up, and get it to vibrating.

Bob C. I have the State of Maine one. I was always intrigued by the fact these Varney cars had separate ladders and handholds. Seemed more realistic than the cast-on ones on the all-plastic kits. I

This flat car has been sold. Thanks, -Andy Hello- I have a special maintenance of way Great Northern Flat car. Duane Buck recognized the accuracy of an Overland Models UP flat

Dremel offers a .125 diameter solid carbide router bit with 20+ flutes that does not cut on the end. It cuts plastic very well (for removing Freight Car details). The great advantage of it not cutting

Two boxes of books slid off the 2-wheeler. As a result, the following books are for sale with dented corners: The Burlington Waycars 1 copy @ $70 each plus $12 dollars USPS media mail - all 4

Matt Goodman asked: "Here’s my ask: I’m looking for advice on an appropriate end mill cutter type for use on plastic. My limited experience with milling has been confined to aluminum and brass,

Hi Jeff. The first car will definitely be an experiment - both with the model and tooling/setup. With new side ribbing (vertical and horizontal), a change to the arch ends and other above-the-sill

Matt The HU was rebuilt and reclassified H3. Similar to H2/H2a but none look anything like the HU. I've been wishing for that hopper 35 years. Jeff Coleman

Hi all. I recently purchased a set of BLI N&W H2a hopper cars with the intent of back-dating them to something resembling an HU. Based on what I know, H2a’s are identical to H2s, which were rebuilt

Gents I support Claus and Charlie; I too looked at the website soon after it was announced, and I believe the first release of the website did not mention what scale the kits were. Since the site

Only a pet peeve, but I find ioften in my postings of items for sale over the years that there are often some zellots who seem to fill their life's mission by asking "what Scale" for items with no

A Resin Car Works kit update has been posted to the RCW blog. A couple of new kits are coming soon. http://blog.resincarworks.com/april-rcw-kit-updates/ Eric Hansmann RCW web guy

All- Thank you to National Scale Car for adding the Scale to the website. There are a good number of N Scalers who are interested in correct STMFCs and do buy resin and rapid prototyped cars when

Actually Claus, your photo showing Carnation cars is taken at a different plant in a different state. Your photo is labeled as Berlin Wisconsin, the photo I linked is Oregon Illinois. Pacific Coast

I'll go ahead and tack this question on to this thread. I know in "later" years (post 1950 or so) some NADX cars were painted blue and white and stenciled for Nestle. Can anyone provide photo