In the past, I have found it useful to thin sanding sealer to avoid filling in the scribes. Chuck Happel I intend to live forever, or die trying. Groucho

Very well done Michael, sometimes being on the road is not all bad!! Fenton -- Fenton Wells 250 Frye Rd Pinehurst NC 28374 910-420-8106 srrfan1401@...

Actually there is some symbol or logo in the 2nd panel from the right; I just downsized some lettering for what appears below it - it's not going to be legible at a scale half inch lettering.

Tim is correct: I wanted as built lettering The Oddballs set seems to be a mix of old and new but thanks to help my set is complete. See my completed artwork Anyone want one? Good for the ECW kit or

Michael Gross wrote: Speaking as a metallurgist, this is certainly not true of everyday or common brass, 30 percent zinc in copper (yellow brass). Heating rate won't matter, and cooling rate

A good thought, Jim, and in future I might experiment with annealing the brass wire before or after it is flattened. My suspicion is that the delicacy of the flattened wire has more to do with its

Very nice. Lester Breuer

Scribbed wood is best first sealed with some kind of "sanding sealer".... I used shellac in the past. Shoelace is alcohol based. Then lightly sand or steel wool to smooth, then paint. If sealed

I have long forgotten the reason for doing it, but I recall "annealing" brass wire in the past. This made it easier to work with, by heating it with a match or lighter, then letting it cool. Maybe

Thanks for your comments, but this is an idea I recall seeing demonstrated by Bill Welch, George Toman, or some other fine modeler. I used Details Associates WR 2502 .008 brass wire, and flattened it

Having built many a wood traction model, I build the bodies first, and then apply coats of lacquer sanding sealer, removing any fuzz that gets highlighted this way, and then apply details, and then

I am building an old wood 40ft DRGW NG reefer kit. The body is entirely wood. The directions say to paint body first, then apply details, then touch up paint. Makes sense to protect the wood from

Wow that looks great! Going to have to use that idea! Scott McDonald

How do you flatten the wire? Hammer? Pliers? Colin Meikle

Great use of time. Looks great. Gary Ray Magalia, CA

Very nice door handles, Michael. Hope to see you in Collinsville. Nelson Moyer

Nice idea! What brand of .008 brass wire did you use? I didn't even know it was possible to do that. Those look great! I can think of a number of uses for flattened brass wire of

Hi Michael, Nice work! I have to give it a try. Pax, Ralph Brown Portland, Maine PRRT&HS No. 3966 NMRA No. L2532 rbrown51[at]maine[dot]rr[dot]com

Seems I get more modeling done in hotel rooms than at home. One of the easiest projects on the road is adding small details, with a few parts and minimal tools. The new door handles on this BLI NYC

I think Jerry wants the "as built" lettering. There's no shortage of photos of the cars in the post 1960 era but once repainting began all bets are off. No two cars seem to be