If the V-grooves are exaggerated in width and depth, the simple fix is to sand the surface down until they are at the desired profile. I have a project in the works where I am doing this for a wood

Just FYI some interesting background on another group of D&RGW mill gondolas Jim Eager wrote the following - ======================== D&RGW 30050-30099 (1st) were built by PSC 3-44 for the Defense

I used to use a piece of keystock to flatten wire in a vice (or a good smack)

For those who object to visible scribing, would it not be feasible to turn the precut wood side around? This would present the blank, unscribed side to view. If this is too plain for individual

The main appearance snag in wood "V" shaped scribing being filled in, is that it results in a shallow dent along the otherwise too deep, too wide scribed line. Ed Bommer

Chuck Happel wrote: But we agree that scribed siding is exaggerated, and the wood product is even more so. Wouldn't it be an ADVANTAGE if the sealer fills in the scribes? <vbg> Tony Thompson

Nicely Done Michael. Those look great. I use a pair of Xuron Short Nose Pliers 475C to flatten my wire. Others as well but really like these. I find I get a lot of force with these. As noted here by

If you prefer using an acrylic wood sealer, look for PinePro at shops that sell pinewood derby cars and supplies. I used PinePro on two wood cars with Northeastern Lumber Co. clerestory roof shapes to

In the past, I have found it useful to thin sanding sealer to avoid filling in the scribes. Chuck Happel I intend to live forever, or die trying. Groucho

Very well done Michael, sometimes being on the road is not all bad!! Fenton -- Fenton Wells 250 Frye Rd Pinehurst NC 28374 910-420-8106 srrfan1401@...

Actually there is some symbol or logo in the 2nd panel from the right; I just downsized some lettering for what appears below it - it's not going to be legible at a scale half inch lettering.

Tim is correct: I wanted as built lettering The Oddballs set seems to be a mix of old and new but thanks to help my set is complete. See my completed artwork Anyone want one? Good for the ECW kit or

Michael Gross wrote: Speaking as a metallurgist, this is certainly not true of everyday or common brass, 30 percent zinc in copper (yellow brass). Heating rate won't matter, and cooling rate

A good thought, Jim, and in future I might experiment with annealing the brass wire before or after it is flattened. My suspicion is that the delicacy of the flattened wire has more to do with its

Very nice. Lester Breuer

Scribbed wood is best first sealed with some kind of "sanding sealer".... I used shellac in the past. Shoelace is alcohol based. Then lightly sand or steel wool to smooth, then paint. If sealed

I have long forgotten the reason for doing it, but I recall "annealing" brass wire in the past. This made it easier to work with, by heating it with a match or lighter, then letting it cool. Maybe

Thanks for your comments, but this is an idea I recall seeing demonstrated by Bill Welch, George Toman, or some other fine modeler. I used Details Associates WR 2502 .008 brass wire, and flattened it

Having built many a wood traction model, I build the bodies first, and then apply coats of lacquer sanding sealer, removing any fuzz that gets highlighted this way, and then apply details, and then

I am building an old wood 40ft DRGW NG reefer kit. The body is entirely wood. The directions say to paint body first, then apply details, then touch up paint. Makes sense to protect the wood from