Ed Hawkins provided me excellent info on the missing info I referred to. It's operating instructions for the retauner vakve and obviously only goes on the left B-end. It will br included on my set.

In most instances the width if the handle it dictated by the molded on anchors (just the handle is carved off in the cast doors). I'm sure that someone has an accurate dimension that you could

Hi George. After studying a number of PRR boxcar photos from Class X29 to Class X40B, my best guess is about 10 inches between bolt of rivet head centers, and the grip, if that’s the term, appears

On modeling a boxcar door handle in HO. I’m curious to know. What is the actual/typical prototype dimensions of the door handle Michael and others have modeled? George Corral La Grange,

Like others reporting, I have been building wood (and wood and paper) railroad models since I was a child, and as we speak, I have finished three more. Most in later years have been passenger cars,

Al, if you are still active here and see this please email: fgexbill(at)tampabay.rr.com Or check Messenger for the message I sent you on Facebook Thank you, Bill Welch

I use .010 brass wire and DO NOT anneal it. I use "Chain" nose pliers to create flat areas and regular needle to level it out the six-eight scale inches handle portion. I think the Chain nose may be

Michael does an excellent job on all of his models and this is another example of his fine and creative work. As an alternative I have achieved a similar effect by bending the handle in .010 or .012

Jason Klocke lent me one of his Milwaukee Donkeys. We used it during an ops on my layout the other day. It's equipped with a Scale Sound Systems custom speaker. Besides listening to a 'state of the

As I age, I am narrowing my focus and selling HO kits that I can’t use and/or will never get around to building. I have for sale about 130 items. Most are HO kits (a few are

Thank you for the replies. It is an Alamosa car shop kit. When I get home tonight I will post some pictures of it. I am only into the kit for $35.00 so if the build goes into the ditch it isnt a

Ed Bommer wrote: True. I was thinking of the Northeastern type of siding with deep, rectangular grooves in it. As someone once said of that siding, "wrong on both counts." Tony Thompson

If the V-grooves are exaggerated in width and depth, the simple fix is to sand the surface down until they are at the desired profile. I have a project in the works where I am doing this for a wood

Just FYI some interesting background on another group of D&RGW mill gondolas Jim Eager wrote the following - ======================== D&RGW 30050-30099 (1st) were built by PSC 3-44 for the Defense

I used to use a piece of keystock to flatten wire in a vice (or a good smack)

For those who object to visible scribing, would it not be feasible to turn the precut wood side around? This would present the blank, unscribed side to view. If this is too plain for individual

The main appearance snag in wood "V" shaped scribing being filled in, is that it results in a shallow dent along the otherwise too deep, too wide scribed line. Ed Bommer

Chuck Happel wrote: But we agree that scribed siding is exaggerated, and the wood product is even more so. Wouldn't it be an ADVANTAGE if the sealer fills in the scribes? <vbg> Tony Thompson

Nicely Done Michael. Those look great. I use a pair of Xuron Short Nose Pliers 475C to flatten my wire. Others as well but really like these. I find I get a lot of force with these. As noted here by

If you prefer using an acrylic wood sealer, look for PinePro at shops that sell pinewood derby cars and supplies. I used PinePro on two wood cars with Northeastern Lumber Co. clerestory roof shapes to