David, the file names (the left column) is in 3 parts - the"SS-" indicates Standard Steel. The 45602 indicatesthe Standard Steel Drawing Number. The .tif is the file type wescan & store the files

Many vintage (and more modern) photos from the Industrial History Blog: http://industrialscenery.blogspot.com/2016/03/carrying-automobiles-in-boxcars.html Bob Chaparro Hemet, CA

As I noted recently Ryan Mendell's "Machinist Hand Tools Clinic: Part One" can be expensive‚ LOL. Reminder he will be doing at Lisle/Chicagoland nest. I decided to go with a Mitutoyo Digital caliper

I purchased a digital caliper many years ago and whenever I see it, I am reminded that it has never been removed from its packaging. I have two stainless dial calipers, plus one plastic one kept near

Up to date I never understood the move to digital calipers for hobby purposes. Eyes getting worse with age is the first credible explanation for me. I just don't trust those digital things. I have had

cut (nippers) while holding the edge where you are cutting with flat pliers or a strong clamp. then file the cut edge while still clamped or held with pliers. then there should be no

Micro-Mark’s photo-etch scissors work well. For major cuts I also sometimes use a little 7” sheet-metal shear/brake. Any such tool needs to be kept sharp and tight to get a clean cut on such thin

Chuck, I've been using cuticle scissors to cut etched parts off of the fret. I can't recall where I bought them but they look like

Schuyler, the device is an Elesco coil type feedwater heater, a favorite of the Central of Georgia. Gary Laakso Northwest of Mike Brock

I'm out of town presently but check with Plano direct. I was in the same quandary and he recommended a set of cutters that Amazon sells, that do an excellent job cutting the metal parts. Dave

Richard Townsend wrote: Richard probably refers to a post last March, about structural steel, a material which is mostly hot rolled and maybe cold straightened. That post is

Ron Merrick wrote: Those are certainly realistic rust colors, as I've described in my blog and in weathering clinics. However, not every casting or forging is left out in the weather. I have

Gary, here’s another look at the ERIE car, and in this view you can see both ends of the car, plus the other side of the near end. It’s pretty clear that the steps ARE bent inwards from the usual

Gary. I think that sill step on the ERIE car IS bent inwards . . . look at the step on the other side . . . but I also think that it’s been bent lengthwise, too, so you’re getting a sort of double

The nearest track features a PRR X31 boxcar and two types of flat cars and the adjoining track has what appears to be a pulp wood car, CB&Q double sheathed boxcar, a pickle car, and a 1937 GN boxcar.

Tony Thompson address’s this recently in his blog.

The railroad would have been the IC; its Freeport IL to Madison WI line. According to Google maps the car dealership building still stands. Bob Witt

This one could be interesting: SS-45602.tif?? Vulcan Corrugated Steel End - 1921 - 200 BAR Box Cars David Thompson

For castings (or forgings) that have been outside for a few months, the color ends up being about the same for ductile iron and for carbon steel (or many of the steel alloys). But castings that have

I am upgrading a few models by adding Plano metal roof walks and need to shorten a few of them to fit the cars. Has anyone had experience in cutting these metal roof walks? What is the best way,