I think we're talking about 2 separate Accurail models if I'm not mistaken. Clark's model has dreadnought ends? The Accurail article refers to a similar single sheathed car with re-enforced ends. I'm

I keep a supply of .010, 015. .020, .025, .030, .035 Plastruct rod to make up for my hole making mistakes or for filling manufacturers holes I do want to use. Bill Welch

Thanks Fred! Claus Schlund

Nice and inspirational Bill. Thanks for sharing. Bill Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

Gene I think the repainting began in 1952. The cars began to be renumbered in 1950, I think, but the numbers were just "patched" at that time.

There is lots of good info on the Accurail model, and how it relates to specific CN cars in the Hendrickson article that Eric provided the link for in message 168561. IMO, the model needs some minor

Rob Kirkham wrote: "The Accurail car is excellent for a CNR car." I've got a F&C CN SS car waiting for Black Cat decals. Would the Accurail model be the same car? If not what series would the model be

Years ago when Al Westerfield was beginning the process of selling his business he let his customers know it might be a good idea to place an order just in case. I ordered several kits just in case.

Why not 5 minute epoxy? Just curious. Colin Meikle

Cheers Garth I am sanding the roof down it will have to do as a stand in as there’s nothing else available as far as I know. Paul Doggett. England 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿

Friends, While I am loath to argue with Tony about this, I find no evidence or mention of roof replacements to the WP 15001-series boxcars. I have copies of several of the general arrangement diagrams

Fred thanks for the information. Paul

I'm particularly interested in those substantial cast brackets supporting the framing for the roof platforms - that's not something I have ever noticed on a car before. Regards Paul Woods Whangarei,

An old trick is to take some plastic sprue and heat it over a open flame or a soldering iron As it starts to melt pull on the end and stretch it thin. Cut it in the center and push it in the hole

Brian, I have a very useful technique for plugging holes on styrene bodies. 1st step is to place a stretched piece of scotch tape over the hole's opening. 2nd is to use Ace Hardware 2-ton epoxy and

Brian Carlson asked: "I’m working on an Intermountain box car and I need to plug some of the holes in the body to re-detail it. I have found I don’t have an appropriate diameter styrene rod. What

... or how about the ties to the right of the car with round "corners" ... I'm certain they held in the ballast well ... LOL.

Brian, I usually use .035, sometimes 1/16 Joe Binish

I’m working on an Intermountain box car and I need to plug some of the holes in the body to re-detail it. I have found I don’t have an appropriate diameter styrene rod. What I have is too small.

bob: it boils down to semantics, the MCB had their own definition, you hsve to remember this was a transistory period from single sheat to double sheat and an increase of weight and stress mel perry