Scott, trying to help you and on page 42 of my RPC vol 19 is a Wabash box (NJI&I #4145) Let me know where else to look Fenton -- Fenton Wells 250 Frye Rd Pinehurst NC

Just to finish this up, I'm going to post a link to the results of a search and see if it works: Distance between coupled cars Not exactly the same question but related there are some good comparisons

These were the last new 40’ cars purchased by the Central in 1957. They were different in that they were delivered in a brown color as opposed to the more common freight car red. These cars also

I just pulled this F&C kit, #8081, WofA, out my stash to work on. My plan is to turn it into the GF&A version, then letter it for the SAL as it would have looked after 1944. Originally, when I came

8300-8799 January 1958 ORER Richard Townsend Lincoln City, OR

I was excited to learn about the project that two of our list members, Randy Hammill and John Drake have launched. The chosen prototypes are interesting and varied while sharing some characteristics.

Could someone who has a ORER from November 1957 or later please tell me the number series that the boxcar CG 8734 was included in? I am considering renumbering the Kadee part number 5216 boxcar to

Hello to all repliers, please excuse the delay. Ed, Dennis, this is all great information again! Lots of thanks! Jim, all my models HAVE to run good to excellent, and as I mentioned some weeks ago

Johannes, I'm going to answer this from a different perspective. First you need to decide whether the car will be used on a layout. If it will then the amount of distance between the coupler face

It's not just brass cars. Since ALL the couplers available to the hobby, except for the Kadee #711 "Old Time" coupler, the Sergent, and the PROTO:HO Accumate were/are oversize, there has always been

EARLY Duryea underframes were banned sometime around 1971 or 1972. Later Duryea underframes (mid 1950's) were never banned, as far as I can been able to find.

Ahem....from the Westerfield site: "Made in Injection Molded Styrene. Not Resin" Regards Paul Woods NYCSHS #7172 ---- On Wed, 04 Mar 2020 05:05:45 +1300 Benjamin Hom <b.hom@...> wrote ----

Hello Ben, Tim and all: Actually the Westerfield Models #1171 Wine Door Lock set IS styrene, NOT Resin. The sets are currently available on our website, as Ben pointed out. Here is the

Friends, Ed Bommer said (in part): "The Duryea design reduced much of the stress from rough handling on the car body and its framing by isolating and spring-loading the center sill. A major problem

Hi Ben, Despite the many times as I've ordered things from Westerfield, I didn't know that. Thanks for bringing them to my attention. I'll definitely include some in my next order. Pax, Ralph

The back of the coupler head must be at least the distance of the draft gear spring travel to the striker plate on the end sill, about 3" to 4" or so. Accurately modeled striker plates seem rare in

Hello Dennis, wow! This is GREAT information which helps a lot! Many thanks! One problem is that most brass cars don't have a coupler box already in place but just a cut-short at a non-defined place

Tim O'Connor wrote: "Now if we could just get Wine door locks in injection molded plastic." Ralph Brown responded: "I'd like to see Simonton operating gear as well, but I do have more than a few

Hi Tim, I'd like to see Simonton operating gear as well, but I do have more than a few hoppers that could stand improved Wine door locks. Pax, Ralph Brown Portland, Maine PRRT&HS No. 3966 NMRA No.

Photo: Wilson Meat Reefer WCLX 2572 Taken at Union Station Yard in Ogden, Utah in 2005 by R. J. Sorensen: https://www.railpictures.net/photo/105932/ Car was built in 1957. Good photo for