I belong to 6 groups.io groups. The other 5 all have an Emailed Photos folder, while this one does not (anymore). My understanding is that it's a storage quota issue. -- Dave Parker Swall Meadows,

I use Tru Color for most freight cars, and decal setting solutions can soften the paint with repeated applications, so I always airbrush Model Master Clear Gloss on the areas to be decaled, to produce

Thanks for the info, Tom. I tried the quoted text tonight on the decal problem and must have missed it somehow. I found the same on going to the Photos album. Great site and full of good info. This

Yep. Same here. But if there's a followup post and you click on "Show quoted text", the quoted text will include a link to the photo. (See Tim O's followup to Clark's post with the Sophocles Marty

I come to this list directly and not through my e-mail. I've noticed lately that no attached photos show up. Even if the message is tagged as having an attachment. Is anyone else having that

When decals float off of their backing paper in water I use a wide tool such as a large Xacto blade, wide paint brush, or a styrene strip to retrieve them. The film does not curl around a wide tool as

Tim O'Connor wrote: What a GREAT technique for deteriorating lettering! Sounds terrific! Tony Thompson tony@...

Rob Simpson wrote: Used in the 1920s for heavy acids like nitric and sulfuric, supposedly to let vapors sink out the bottom. Or something. That explanation always seemed lacking to me. But they

Chuck: I agree that Solvaset seems to be a bit stronger than the Microscale products (and red is stronger than blue). I haven't had it eat any decals, but then I don't use it very often. I agree with

Stay away from solva set. It loves to eat most decal paper. Micro set is not as harsh and gives you time to play with the decal until you get it set. Hubert Mask

Already dullcoated . . . *sigh* Yes, it can be done, but it ain’t easy, and it can be a bit scary. As I mentioned before I use a single edge razor blade, as it’s sharper than most anything

Thank you to everyone who has responded to my questions. I have a couple of steps that I can now try to get rid of some of that silvering. The car pictured was painted with Scalecoat and I did not

Hi Schuyler, The AC&Y #3179 appears to be a type of Mather car I am not famiiar with but I agree, it's a car with character and kind of neat. Think it was an older type attemted to look it up in

This car was offered by Sunshine. I have one running on the railroad…someplace. Bill Darnaby

Hello, Don - and other interested folks, Attached is a spreadsheet exported from my database. The criterion for selection to export was "inset side sill" and/or "with brackets". The count is 275

Wasn’t that a wood kit, Don? Northeastern? Schuyler

Actually Monsanto Chemical had a car of two like the Eastman car that operated out of their plant in Revere. Mass., just north of Boston. Years ago someone made a foil wrapper for a kit of these

Overspray, in my experience, seldom conceals the blushing. Fix that first with the poking and slicing with the sharp edge. I use a single edge razor blade. Sharper than any exacto knife.

Tim’s additions to Pierre’s basic recommendations are what I do as well. IMHO it’s essential to float the decal in a puddle on the car side, and get it to settle down to the surface by wicking

Todd I find that I can pick up tiny decals with a fine, wet paintbrush, and transfer them to the car with that - they slide smoothy off the wet brush