Ted Culotta wrote: "You probably know this, too, but Microscale makes the decals for the scheme to which you refer [REX green-and-silver] (Aren't the members ofthis list are good at removing excuses

Doesn't everybody want a double deck layout?? :O) Tim O'Connor <timoconnor@...> Sterling, Massachusetts

I would disagree somewhat with this statement. I think that unless you are building a double decked layout then only the APPEARANCE of grades is important. You can have "perfectly" flat track that

Art: I quote from POOR'S MANUAL OF RAILROADS, 1898: Sioux Falls Terminal R.R. -- Sioux Falls to South Sioux Falls, S.D., 7.01 m.; total track (steel, 60 lbs), 9.01 miles. Gauge, 4 ft. 8 1/2 in.

I actually have not found the issue with these drawings yet (the MRRing periodical index search is hardly robust.) However, if I use the holes in the center sill castings as guides, then the

Andy: You probably know this, too, but Microscale makes the decals for the scheme to which you refer (Aren't the members ofthis list are good at removing excuses for people? Now if only they would

Tony Thompson wrote Tony, the SP rated a 2-10-2 at "1 M" or 500 tons up Cantara grade. Wasn't unusual for SP to use 3 to 5 2-10-2's on a freight. And the Siskiyou line was even worse! Grades are a

In a message dated 4/14/03 10:15:46 AM Pacific Daylight Time, thompson@... writes: << If there was a forty-year limit in the time prior to the 1960s, it was widely violated.

Tim O'Conner wrote, regarding the REX 6100-6599 series cars: "Andy, they're still available [in HO] from Sunshine!" I know Tim, and in fact I just completed a couple of Sunshine kits for the older

The first of these is interesting from several points. It is an Australian piece and some tings are done differently there. What surprises me, however, is that the cans shown for the draw-redraw type

Yeah, but was it right? Hundman has been known to commit some howlers. Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA 2942 Linden Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705

Ned Carey said: Well, I may be the only one still listening, and... Lighter cars, less load for the loco. Of course, rolling resistance of the trucks often overwhelms car weight, but if

since. I think you are right about surface preparation, but for what it's worth, my standard is to mechanical attach the weights as well as use adhesive. My weights are 5/8' brass nuts, which of

Hello Friends, The board members of the Illinois Traction Society are pleased to announce our completely updated and revised web site along with our new web address. In addition, we'd like to remind

From my experience many moons ago with SCL, that's exactly how the yardmasters liked to build trains, especially for the hilly, crooked routes. So this sounds like just another one of those

After having both stick-on weights and an epoxied weight come loose after several years, I switched to silicone caulk and have had no problems since. I also looked at why those weights came loose and

None so far but it sounds from your comments that it may just be matter of time. 8-( I avoid goo/contact cement because I'm allergic to it and you've got to be careful to let it out-gas the solvent

My favorite caulk is DAP. It adheres to anything, and once dry it seems to be permanent. I've never had a weight break loose once it was glued with a generous dollop of DAP. Tim O'Connor

My experience with silicone caulking materials has been that they dry out faster than a rubber based cement such as Walthers Goo. That being said, what has your experience been, Dave, and how many of

IIRC, a tiny bit less than 1/10th of an ounce. I stick mine together with silicone caulk, making sure there is a smear of caulk somewhere on the outside edge (I keep a pile of these in my toolkit in