Guys; I agree with everything you all have said, and only add that I go slowly, and look at the results of each step before moving on. The attached are examples of different processes, to get

Ray, GO FOR IT! It can be daunting to take a nice model and feel like you might ruin it. In chemistry terms, it has a “high activation energy”, but the rewards are many and the risks actually

Thanks for all the comments and information. This group is very helpful and I really appreciate it. Les Sent from my Verizon Motorola Smartphone

Ray, Jim, Additional commentary interspersed ;) As a rule of thumb, everything goes towards a mid-tone. Brianna, my daughter, and I gave a clinic at an SER NMRA annual convention when she was the

Sweet work, Clark. Does anyone know if the GN painted roof and ends black when these cars were built? Eric Hansmann Murfreesboro, TN

Ray, Take a box car you don't really care about and weather it. Build up the weathering slowly - taking a day or two between to just look at it several times a day to see "when it is enough"..

Bruce, Thanks. I will give that process a try; Future on both sides of the decal lettering. Mont Montford L. Switzer President Switzer Tank Lines, Inc. Fall Creek Leasing,

Doug, I store my Future in small Floquil size bottles. It can over time get a little “stiff,” at lease in the small bottles. Distilled water takes care of that. Mont Montford L.

Ray The best thing to do is get your hands a a stack of cheap freight cars and practice Figure out processes and materials that give you the results you want There’s a large array of products out

Here’s a 2016 blog post about working with Pledge Future acrylic floor wax. http://blog.resincarworks.com/working-with-future/ Eric Hansmann Murfreesboro, TN

Nice build, Clark! Elden Gatwood

If you use a solvent based color coat and/or clear coat, water based weathering can be wiped off with isopropyl alcohol before it dries completely. Chalk can be washed off with water. It's best to

Clark, Great looking car; I love the subtle weathering! Jim Brewer

Decided to post this after reading comments about pledge... I am supremely unconfident about weathering cars and engines. Is there a way to apply overcoat to original finish that might allow for

Mont, Yes, the military modelers, from whom I learned about Future, overcoat decals with a coat of Future to help them disappear. I think that the idea is to have a similar finish on the entire model,

The Pledge/Future floor finish product is 100% clear acrylic. No need to thin for airbrushing. It can also be brushed on, good for small areas. Clean up with water. It provides a gloss finish perfect

Bruce, I’ve not OVERCOATED decals with Future. I assume it helps the decals lay down better and that is why you do it? I use Testor’s dullcoat to eliminate the Future shine. Sometimes a

Les, Airbrush, no thinner, better in a couple thin coats. It can go on over any paint, acrylic or not. Just make sure that the non-acrylic paint is completely dry (48 hours). If a paint works well for

Les, I think the Pledge you are referring to is the old Future Floor Wax. If that is the case I can relate my experience with it. 1. When using flat or semi-gloss paints I apply the

Les Sittler asked: "Any advice would be most appreciated." http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html Ben Hom