Ray, Take a box car you don't really care about and weather it. Build up the weathering slowly - taking a day or two between to just look at it several times a day to see "when it is enough"..

Bruce, Thanks. I will give that process a try; Future on both sides of the decal lettering. Mont Montford L. Switzer President Switzer Tank Lines, Inc. Fall Creek Leasing,

Doug, I store my Future in small Floquil size bottles. It can over time get a little “stiff,” at lease in the small bottles. Distilled water takes care of that. Mont Montford L.

Ray The best thing to do is get your hands a a stack of cheap freight cars and practice Figure out processes and materials that give you the results you want There’s a large array of products out

Here’s a 2016 blog post about working with Pledge Future acrylic floor wax. http://blog.resincarworks.com/working-with-future/ Eric Hansmann Murfreesboro, TN

Nice build, Clark! Elden Gatwood

If you use a solvent based color coat and/or clear coat, water based weathering can be wiped off with isopropyl alcohol before it dries completely. Chalk can be washed off with water. It's best to

Clark, Great looking car; I love the subtle weathering! Jim Brewer

Decided to post this after reading comments about pledge... I am supremely unconfident about weathering cars and engines. Is there a way to apply overcoat to original finish that might allow for

Mont, Yes, the military modelers, from whom I learned about Future, overcoat decals with a coat of Future to help them disappear. I think that the idea is to have a similar finish on the entire model,

The Pledge/Future floor finish product is 100% clear acrylic. No need to thin for airbrushing. It can also be brushed on, good for small areas. Clean up with water. It provides a gloss finish perfect

Bruce, I’ve not OVERCOATED decals with Future. I assume it helps the decals lay down better and that is why you do it? I use Testor’s dullcoat to eliminate the Future shine. Sometimes a

Les, Airbrush, no thinner, better in a couple thin coats. It can go on over any paint, acrylic or not. Just make sure that the non-acrylic paint is completely dry (48 hours). If a paint works well for

Les, I think the Pledge you are referring to is the old Future Floor Wax. If that is the case I can relate my experience with it. 1. When using flat or semi-gloss paints I apply the

Les Sittler asked: "Any advice would be most appreciated." http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html Ben Hom

Good morning- I have been using Pledge to affix rivet decals to plastic and resin, based on the advice from Bill Welch and others in this group. It has worked very well. In those cases, I was brushing

Clark Another great looking car very nicely modelled. Paul

All of the cars in that series that didn't have end doors where rebuilt in 1940ish to 6ft doors cars. Scott McDonald

I built a ton of cars the first five months of the year. This is the only car I’ve worked on since. A normal pace ; )) Since then I’ve picked up a couple kits off eBay and traded with friends

On Sep 21, 2020, at 4:08 PM, Jack Burgess <jack@...> wrote:  I had long heard that Denny was heavily involved in the creation of the California State Railroad Museum which is confirmed by this