Does Bondo shrink when it dries? Can it handle expansion and contraction without cracking? I’m looking of a product to fill in the irregularities in a 0.080 in. styrene backdrop splice where I put

I have done 'finish work' with both thin CA, and liquid clear acrylic (e.g. Future) which can nicely fill in some of the shrinkage cracks that result after the putty dries.

Steve George Bishop (Accupaint/Accucals) used to do this as well. You can layer this as well to create reasonably large structures. He built up an entire "nose

The problem I have had with most putties is that they shrink as they dry. So it's like doing drywall (sheetrock) mud work: add some, sand some, add some, sand some ... repeat. I used to use

I make my own putty by dissolving leftover styrene sprues in n-Butyl Acetate (Tamiya extra thin cement is 50% Acetone 50% n-Butyl Acetate). You can also use MEK to dissolve but it dries a little

I've used all three. I like the spot putty best, but it is black. Be sure to prime the model or the black may affect your finish color. Scott Haycock Modeling Tarheel country in the Land

I use a Bondo auto putty from WalMart. I know all the purists will poo poo this but it works for me and it lasts a long time. Just say'in Fenton -- Fenton Wells 250 Frye Rd Pinehurst NC

Hi List Members, It has been a few years since I did a project that needed any putty to smooth a joint between two sections of a plastic model. When I pulled out my favorite tube of putty (labeled

The Algoma Central & Hudson Bay Railway bought 200 of these cars in 1900 new from Pressed Steel Car Co. In 1916 the AC&HB purchased an additional 100 second-hand from the Duluth & Iron Range. One of

After downloading and adjusting image levels in Photoshop, a 1925 weigh date stencil is visible. The centered end posts and brake platform, and the different grab/handhold ladders on the corners

Hi List Members, C&O 40842 steel gon NEW 7-30 with coal load https://wvhistoryonview.org/catalog/002038 Enjoy! Claus Schlund

Hi List Members, A set of C&O hoppers (undated)... I can identify C&O twin hoppers 57915 and 56808. The two cars appear to be of identical construction other than the trucks. They are from C&O

Neat shot. Those reporting marks on the car end are definitely retouched. Eric Hansmann Murfreesboro, TN

When reviewing a MILW 36’ stock car diagram for number series 104570 - 105006 , class SM, built in 1927 by Ryan Car Co. in a MILW 1937 Shop Diagrams book I found the diagram states a “konker hand

There just might be enough room in that car for another lump or two of coal. I suspect if you were to build a model that looked like this you would receive a few raised eyebrows with the accompanying

Rich, That does look like a former GN car. That pic, according to the details, was taken on the McCloud RR ... but there is some connection with the Lane County Historical Museum (which is in

Tim, are you sure those are doors and not reinforced ends? Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS

Actually going far, in a train, is not a problem, as the other cars will have brakes. Note the NO BRAKE notation isn't on the side, where the carmen could see it, but rather on the end. It's a warning

Here is one of the former GN ore cars on the McCloud River Railroad. https://lchm.pastperfectonline.com/photo/517EDD6F-0DE0-4255-BBD0-795760046419 Looks like GN 83548 and looks like while last on the

There’s at least two CP gobs, so not just a one-off. Sent from my tricorder