Folks, The PRR T&HS is planning a virtual PRR evening on November 20, 2021, 7:00pm-9:00pm (Eastern Daylight Savings Time) , through Zoom. Thanks to Auburn University, we will be able to host

Or at least Disney! :>) Steve Hile

Just think how much more difficult HO prototype modeling would be if we had high resolution photos for everything. I see you’re a Lewis Carroll affection ado. Nelson Moyer

If you zoom in on the NP boxcar end that Eric posted, it appears that the shaft is square from the lever end down to near the lowest ladder rung, where it seems to transition to a round rod that

This auction seems pretty unusual so this is a last day heads up. I don't know

The chain is attached to a U-bolt casting with eyes on both ends that is in turn bolted to the square shaft. I see that on CB&Q single sheathed boxcars. That’s too small to model in HO scale, so I

Interestingly, it appears that the brake chain attaches to the shaft with some sort of yoke (half of a turnbuckle for extreme modelers! :>) ) Steve Hile

I wasn’t suggesting using the A-Line sill steps for brake staff footings, just relating my experience with annealing to make them easier to bend. That came in very handy for the B&O wagon tops

In my youth (not going to do the arithmetic right now), I glued the car weights into Athearn “Blue Box” cars with Goo. In 20 years or so, those floors too were “banana” or other peculiar

Looking good Eric, fenton -- Fenton Wells 250 Frye Rd Pinehurst NC 28374 910-420-8106 srrfan1401@...

Nelson, I've tried to use the A-Line sill steps but had difficulty drilling the brake staff hole. I find the thinner etched metal fret material easier to drill, plus it's a bit

Talked to Carol (Caboose Stop Hobbies) yesterday. She said she was going to show her Westerfield and other resin kits during her Zoom Wednesday evening. Clark PS she has 6 kits from last week left.

Clark Nice! That car was a cripple, and you have restored it to full service! Tim O'Connor -- Tim O'Connor Sterling, Massachusetts

One more shot before painting, which I've done. The yellow resin box car in the background is one I bought at Caboose Stop Hobbies last Wednesday. I picked up the Ribside at a swap meet yesterday for

A soldering iron works too. It's greener :-) -- Tim O'Connor Sterling, Massachusetts

For hidden weights I like to use DAP silicone caulk which dries hard in about 24 hours. And it's cheap. 😁 Tim O'Connor -- Tim O'Connor Sterling, Massachusetts

Hi, For years now I have drilled 2 small (1/8th inch or so) holes in the bottom of any boxcar, reefer or tank car to let anything vent out. From my British modelling days 30 years ago I have a bogie

ALL these solvent based contact cements we've been discussing work the same way. They are a synthetic rubber (Weldwood says neoprene, Pliobond says nitrile, can't find what's in Barge) dissolved in a

A-Line sill steps are much easier to bend and shape after being annealed. Hold them in a flame until they glow red, then cool and bend away. I use an alcohol lamp, but a butane lighter or candle

I haven’t had time to look into this reporting mark in depth, but this and a couple of the other photos in the NYCHS Archive may be proposal photos taken at East Rochester, where one car was painted