Here in TN, it’s minerals in the water, mostly limestone. I always use distilled water. No detergent. Thanks! -- Brian Ehni From: <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of O Fenton Wells

Some of the new ultra-thin decals come with instructions not to use anything but water for placement. I found out why the hard way. These decals also have a tendency to curl, so you have to slide them

Jay Styron wrote: Good point, Jay! But also don’t forget what one former employee told me about such stencils: "Sure, we’d follow it if it was convenient." Tony Thompson tony@...

 Hi List Members, I just remember that they go on in alphabetical order - "Set" alphabetizes before "Sol" Claus Schlund

Fenton, you reminded me of the sulfur water in Callahan, FL. We moved from Jacksonville to Callahan when I was in the first grade, and I had to put a clothes pin on my nose to take a bath. I

The lake herring or cisco of the Great Lakes, Coregonus artedi, might more properly be called a whitefish. They were brined in barrels same as Atlantic herring, hence the common name. They were and

I just use distilled water because of minerals in tap water, no soap nor Photoflo (left over from my darkroom days.) Pretreat the car with Micro Set where decal will be going, later with Micro Sol to

I use distilled water and no detergent. I started using distilled water while living in FL. Water wasn't good back then, in some towns it smelled like sulfur. Not any more.I still use distilled

Or SET displaces water and fixes the decals in place and SOL fuses them to the surface by basically melting the film to bond it to the surface.. Nelson Moyer

I think adding detergent goes back to the days before decal setting solutions were available, and water was the only way to apply decals. The detergent acts as a surface tension reducing agent so

Consider the alphabet sequence…Microset comes before Microsol. John Holmes

Something else to try is one of those orange based hand cleaners. I’ve found putting a blob of the stuff over lettering on some brands of cars is enough in, say, an hour, to soften just the

Ray, Awesome! That’s the first photo of a TEM car in TEM paint that I think I have ever seen. There’s enough there to potentially do a credibly job patching together the lettering.

Here is a question for those of you who use distilled water when applying decals. I have spent a lifetime using water with a few drops of detergent when decaling. If you use distilled water do you

I like the fiberglass brush idea. I already use one of those for cleaning off the 'blackening' on weathered rail. I'll try the paper towel with Solvaset trick also. In most cases the renumbering is

To get maximum attention nothing beats a good big mistake, and I just made one. A stray finger posted this message before I was finished. Now, back to the program. As we draw toward the end of winter

On-Line Model Railroad Magazine Indexes Information courtesy of Paul Wilfong through the San Diego Division/PSR/NMRA publication, The Mail Hook. Paul writes: “Model Railroader Magazine recently

Here’s the RPM Valley Forge website. http://www.rpmvalleyforge.com/ Steve, can you encourage the committee to post the names of the presenters and their clinic topic on the website? Those are

As we draw toward the end of winter and hopefully the end of this Covid pandemic, it's time to make your plans to attend RPM Valley Forge in Malvern Pennsylvania on March 25h to the 27th. The

Bernd this (your method) is the best method to start with removing lettering on old Front Range cars was the hardest I have found It's ironic because