A nit -- My Uncle bought a "1964" Mustang and I recall seeing contemporary photos (in magazines) of the "1964" Mustang. I guess they just called them that because it was 1964.

The caption is incorrect. There were no “1964” Mustangs. All first year Mustangs were sold as 1965 models. Introduced five months prior to the 1965 model year, they have been called “1964 ½”,

Hmm. Kalmbach could have applied a little more proof reading scrutiny... :-D Unless you have no other materials or just have money to burn, from what I see I think

Yesterdays and this mornings work. I screwed up on both car's diagonal side bracing. The MILW car should have one at the top and the bottom corners, but because I left the ladder stiles I could easily

Hi Keith and List Members, Have a look at the link below for a preview... https://kalmbachhobbystore.com/-/media/files/books/model-trains/bks12838.pdf

Guy, I bought this one recently and there are quite a few scenes pre 1960. Most of the photos are ones of the prototype. It's divided up into 8 chapters covering different

 Has anyone here received a copy of this book; Model Realistic Freight Car Loads, by Keith Kohlmann? If so, is it worth purchasing or does it represent a post 1960 overview of open top

The OMI model does represent a specific group of 8k GATC tank cars, and if you remove the model's dome handrails, I think you'd have a close match for the Celanese car. Now who

On Mon, Jul 11, 2022 at 01:28 PM, Dennis Storzek wrote: I wonder if a piece of phosphor bronze wire, like Tichy sells, would work, sharpened like this and driven at slow speed by a battery motor tool?

Thanks Clark. That thick plastic is what i was wondering about, but it sounds straightfoward enough. Rob

Thanks Tim. I am also awaiting the plastic release of the Type 30s as I could use at least 6. The Celanese tank car that you posted seems somewhat similar to OMI 3270, which purports to be a model of

Bob, Folks, Notable features include the short upper door track, 1/3 and 2/3 height door stops, car builder’s doors, plate ends, Carmer uncoupling devices, longitudinal AB reservoir These all mark

On Mon, Jul 11, 2022 at 09:09 AM, Owen Thorne - owen at udel.edu wrote: So, while choosing high-speed bits for hand-drilling plastic and resin seems counterintuitive, the commonly available carbide

Photo: PRR Boxcar 570062 (1941) Photo from the Library of Congress: https://www.loc.gov/pictures/collection/fsa/item/2017820462/ Photo can be enlarged quite a bit. Good view of “B” end. I’m

Partial and and side views of gon in scrap metal service:https://www.loc.gov/resource/fsac.1a35061/ Rob

I would go with High Speed Steel. Most commercial users of drills want a drill that will last in production machines. That is what carbide and Cobalt drills are for. But modelers are going to break /

I have enjoyed this discussion, but one question remains unanswered for me. I too have had trouble finding reliable affordable bits for hand-drilling plastic and resin and I remain unsure if I should

They were not built in huge numbers as far as I know. GATC also built riveted tank cars of the same size at the same time -- Those were imported in HO scale brass by Drake, and I

I've taken to using (new) exacto blade, scoring the cut, and then repeating the cut 7-8 times until I am all the way through the plastic. Seems to work fine. Mostly because I am not trusting myself

How many GATC 1948-design ICC-103 tank cars were built? I have two of the Tangent model but don't know if more would be justifiable. -Phil Lee