Have you tried that with Tru Color white or reefer yellow? Nelson Moyer

Sometimes using a black primer does better for lighter colors. Curt Fortenberry

Transfer Yard (1910) Photo courtesy of Eric Hansmann’s Notes on Designing, Building, and Operating Model Railroads blog. Caption: DL&W Freight Transfer Yard, Scranton, PA, September 5, 1910.

This morning, I looked back into mid-20's URTC listings: The 1/25 ORER listed URTC 30000-30099 with no QTY yet, and the series would remain on its own line in the registers until it disappears. At no

I hit reply too early. Specifically for C&EI, I do have one source (a Bill Welch presentation) that includes a mid-1950s photo of an RBNX car that has been stenciled to return empty to C&EI at

Lee - My understanding is - it depends. Some of the original RBNX cars were repainted/re-lettered for the railroads as they were leased, yet there were some newer ones that were lettered for the

I use Tamiya Fine Light Gray Primer, which a very light gray. I tried using Tamiya White Primer on yellow reefers, which worked well, but that was with Tru Color, which is more of an ink than a paint.

I have a question about FGE RBL cars that were leased to railroads. As a general rule, it appears that they were assigned FGE numbers to go with RBNX reporting marks. When they were leased to a

Nelson, I don't know what you are using for your primer, But if you add a little blue to the primer, might that tone down the orange some? Orange like yellow has a bit of a transparent

I think Randy overstated the stability of pigments. The UV in sunlight DOES change pigments. Tony Thompson

I occurred to me that I didn’t include paint failure, particularly on galvanized surfaces, in the discussion on weathering. Paint failure results from a combination of paint and surface properties

Awe, so that’s why they are referred to a ‘varnish’. I always wondered about that term. Nelson Moyer

I attached the second attempt at SFRD paint colors. The first attempt was too yellow on all cars. This one is good for L (lighest) and J (next lightest), but E and H are too orange, even though they

I think that Nelson has described the difference between weathering and fading pretty well, with one cravat… If “fading” is the loss of color, this really isn’t what happens to the paints used

Yes l agree the roof is almost certainly unpainted galvanized metal, it has lost the polished silver look of new galvanized metal, it looks the same shade as the galvanized bucket l have. The bucket

OK, here’s my attempt to answer your question. Paint fading occur as a permanent phenomenon from sunlight exposure, while weathering usually applies to the rust, dust, dirt, soot, grime, salt,

I was enlarging this image on my phone and it’s pretty evident that the Alton boxcar’s radial roof is unpainted galvanized steel and the panel caps are also unpainted (note how shiny they are in

Weathering is the grime of steam engines and the track dust etc. Paul

Is there a difference between weathering and fading? I thought fading was due to weather. -- Ted Larson Trainweb.org/MHRR --- GN in 1965 --- NASG.org

Early automobile box cars are the topic of the latest DesignBuildOp blog post. Ray Breyer also shares a resource PDF featuring car designs of the 1905-1930