All: I have 3 resin kits I won't build anytime soon. All three happen to be steel rebuilds, a popular list topic recently Since there are only 3, they are listed below. Shipping extra per USPS

A suggestion – Do a “test piece” program A whole bunch of parallel lines (or whatever shape) spaced out over the width of the bed and vary the speeds/power settings from min to max ,

I have read of scribing styrene, then snapping it. Scribe with the laser, then snap? -- Ted Larson trainweb.org/mhrr/ -------- NASG.org --------

I'm looking for one Sunshine MILW stock car (can be single deck or double deck) and two MP (and subsidiaries) Howe Truss SS boxcars, one 39.6 and one 39.7. These will likely be the last Sunshine kits

Jeff is correct. The kerf correction is in the software. The laser cutter I have has the correction as an option in the software which controls the laser cutter. I am currently using the software

On Fri, Feb 3, 2023 at 03:25 PM, Richard Remiarz wrote: Styrene is by far the most difficult material I have worked with. It does melt as it cuts.If I recall correctly what I was told some

One small clarification: the ability of a laser cutter to compensate for the “kerf” is technically in the software, and not the hardware. So if one is buying a laser, one will want to buy one

Using a laser cutter to make styrene freight car sides and entire kits is nothing new. Modeler’s Choice was doing it back in the 20’oughts (circa 2004), and Dave Hussey started producing some of

Tim, Styrene is by far the most difficult material I have worked with. It does melt as it cuts. The key is to use as little laser power and as high a speed as you can while still cutting through

Rich That is amazing to me. So the laser does not heat the plastic when it cuts into it? I never considered that it was possible to "etch" styrene, but I can see how

Tom Gasior in MN has also used his Crikut to great effect, making some excellent palm trees for a SoCal layout. I am hoping to design the M&StL doodlebugs for Crikut cutting. Someday…. Joe

Somewhat related - Rene Gourley up in Vancouver has had success using a Cricut machine on styrene. It may be another option, for thin material. I don't know where they land on price etc. Steve

Works great! The photo shows the gondola parts. The sides have the locations marked for all of the grab irons and ribs, along with weld seams. The ends are made of layers that are stacked to give

Ted Now that's more like it !! I look forward to hearing about it. :-D Interested in finding out how well these work for cutting styrene replacement side

I haven't even turned it on yet, but I bought this after listening to Bill Schneider's clinic at Cocoa. He is using a 40W machine for cutting materials to scratchbuild structures. The results were

Dear Friends and Colleagues, Attached is my For Sale List No. 4 of 47 more Sunshine Models kits, which are being offered first to my email list and members of this and other lists from which I have

Clark, After Rich's comments had convinced me that a laser with sufficient power is well beyond my limited budget, at first your "try before you buy" expression gave me just a rueful chuckle. On

Rich, I really appreciate the advice. Truthfully, it wasn't what I had hoped to hear, but sometimes reality isn't fun. In fact, as a retiree with limited resources, even $1000 is more than twice

One other thing I should add- Having studied these underframes from a rivet counter modeling standpoint, the NYC Kendig underframes were not EXACTLY the same on all types of cars-they(unfortunately

Irv, If you want to “try before you buy”, see if you can find a maker space somewhere near you. These places often have large laser cutters, 3D printers and other tools you can use for a nominal