I haven't used them, but I believe these are probably a re-release of the old Dan Kirlin parts (originally released under the Canadian Model Railway Parts Guild name?). Some years ago, Clare Gilbert

Garth; I was wondering the same thing, plus what the Tichy mill gon ends look like. But they may not be usable as-supplied for 65-foot gons. The PRR G26 end supplied in the ECW kit looks like an early

Cannonball Car Shops also did a plastic version of the old Red Ball kit. I built one of those, and by replacing/rebuilding many of the parts it came out pretty well. But I recently finished another

Detail Associates also makes a styrene gon end which I have used to upgrade a lot of my stand in gondolas to get interior corrugations. And don't forget that the P2K gon kits come with two sets of

Dear friends, The Sylvan web sites lists the following part: Mill Gondola Ends DP-0059: $3.95 CDN, $3.25 US. HO-Scale The listing is found at: http://www.isp.ca/Sylvan/detail.htm Has anyone here

Yes, I agree. Though I don't have the sunshine car to compare it to, I am also VERY happy with the cars that I purchased. As far as the cast-on grabs: zip, zip, and they're gone. As for the

Tim; Your analysis is dead on. Yes, there definitely seems to be a relationship between the economy and their rebuilding/refurbishing practices. There was a whopper of a recession in '58, there was

I haven't looked into fixing the Atlas reefer with these but I may try thinning them down, and either "skive" off the originals or just use the elongated tips on an Intermountain R40-10 to more

These lead alloy panels were then glued to a solid wood block. The resulting car requires two hands to lift it onto the track ;-) Regards, Andy Miller

Jace, Paul's last name is spelled "Dolkos." He wasn't a B&M modeler (in some ways he still isn't) -- he simply found the B&M presented an outstanding theme for his beautiful layout. His main

Branchline's 50 ton truck is a fine model of a Barber S2. Red Caboose also made one to go with their GS gondolas.

As delivered, all the Milwaukee Shops built ribside box cars equipped with Barber S2 trucks. John Greedy 40' be took are

Thats why I use a "blowgun" to remove as much excess water of the cleaned model to miminize deposits. Jerry in Fla -----------original msg -------------- Message: 4 Date: Mon, 31 May 2004

The original Red Ball wagon top box car kit required the assembler to bend about 2 dozen flat metal panels into the characteristic wagon top pattern. not likely this will be released as is in

In regard to Mal's reference to Scalecoat painted engines from 30 years ago: the toughness of the finish is because the Scalecoat used 30 years ago had a lead base which has long since removed from

I own 7 MDC pre-decorated models, of the Milw. horizontal ribbed 40' boxes. Three were identical design custom paint jobs by Walthers, from back in 1989. The rest are MDC stock paint. None have yet

Mal, Originally, yes. But George later switched to a new ink supplier in California and eventually stopped printing his own decals. This has been posted before but I'll post it again. Back in 1997,

Clark, you are correct about the new model but I am on this list and I do not waste any time modeling the 80's. Try mid-70's, there is a big difference! <grin> To answer Brian's second question

Accupain #98, the gray primer, is actually a professional product intended for the auto body trade. It is a "Lacquer" based primer, with lots of strong solvents. George gets his from various

--- Schuyler Larrabee <schuyler.larrabee@...> wrote: