Brian: In addition to Richard's comments. one thing I do that eliminates any marring of the decals is to not add setting solution until after the decals have dried completely. Then, I just touch the

pierre.oliver@... writes: Somtimes there is a problem with them not coming off, Just keep burnishing them as you would a transfer. it should work. I have used the clear film methos for

Brian, the Rail Graphics decals included in Westerfield kits aren't especially fragile (unlike older Microscale decals, which tend to disintegrate if you even look cross-eyed at them), though all

I am about to start decaling my first Westerfield model. What decal setting solution do you guys recommend for their decals. I have Solvaset, Champ setting solution, and Microscale,both Micro sol

Overland also made a nice brass bracket grab, but they have been discontinued and no amount of prodding will get them to do a re-run. I think Bill Welsh and myself have captured what supply was left

Ian Clasper kindly sent me a raft of detail shots of these new models, and I have to say that I am seriously disappointed. Previous models of U.S. prototypes from M/T have incorporated a variety of

I haven't seen one of the Hallmark trucks for years, but I'm sure that, in terms of appearance and prototype fidelity, the Athearn trucks are at least as good if not better. And unlike the Hallmark

Bill, I was considereing following that path. Any suggestions for assuring that the transfers will stick to the clear decal film? Pierre Oliver transfer

Al Westerfield reports- This seems to be correct. John Greedy, the ranking expert on the Milwaukee reefers, monitors this list when he can. Perhaps he will chime in. Denny -- Denny S. Anspach,

I've run into a problem with some dry transfers. They've been sealed in their plastic envelope since they were made. Yet when I went to apply them to the car side, the decals wouldn't transfer onto

A search of http://www.bookfinder.com yields for Moody's Industrial yield two alternatives: - one, a 1965 Manual for $125.00, and the other, a 1958 Manual for $150.00. Tim Gilbert Dave Nelson

Paul Lyons wrote: The B&W medallion for UP was introduced in June, 1950, so if it's a post-1952 paint job it sure should be B&W. I would urge caution, BTW, with Dick Smith's article, as

GROUP: Could some one tell me what the car number is on the MILW horizontal rib boxcar that is preserved at Union, IL. Thanks in advance, Mont Switzer

Hard to find and the price shows that. Don't know seller. Dave Nelson

Ben, please contact me off list. Thanks, Mike Brock

Richard - When I visited GAT years ago they gave me the name of an retired employee who actually painted the cars. I called him. That's the source of my info. Of course, we all know how good memory

We think we've corrected a flaw in our email that prevented modelers from using the "email order" button to order freight cars (appropriate content). May I ask that some of you help me with a test -

Hello: Don't treat them as transfers. Get some blank decal film and try to transfer them to that and then apply clear liquid decal film. If this works use them as a decal. Bill

I was up at the Whistle Stop in Pasadena yesterday and grabbed one of Intermountain's latest RTR releases, a PFE R-30-18 with post 1952 paint. Preoccupied with other things I did not look the model