Ted Culotta wrote: Probably these are steel nuts which are galvanized (or otherwise coated). Steel is a lot cheaper than zinc and is denser, too. Tony Thompson Editor, Signature

I weight all of my closed resin cars using zinc nuts like those included in Branchline kits. They are cheap and work great. I use three for a 40' car. The are secured with GE Silicone II adhesive

I should just terminate this thread immediately but I'll add this first...primarily because I want to. As a long ago Yankee fan...which, oddly, ended about the time of the retirement of Mickey Mantle,

I've usually been able to figure out the weight needed inside a resin carbody before closing it up (weigh all the main body parts plus the trucks before assembly, and subtract that from the desired

Charles Morrill wrote: "Regarding adding weight to a finished closed car --- is there some reason why you don't just drill a hole in the floor, pour in the required weight in lead shot, bee-bees,

Regarding adding weight to a finished closed car --- is there some reason why you don't just drill a hole in the floor, pour in the required weight in lead shot, bee-bees, sand or whatever, and then

Boy, do I have a couple of stories to tell in Cocoa Beach of turning cars that arrived here in Salem, OR. We usually tell them to simply turn the car half-way... 3^) So much for placards and waybill

The good Dr. Anspach writeth: Ignoring (but admiring) Denny's closing alliterative flight of fancy, the heroic measures he's outlined for adding weight to completed resin cars reinforces my opinion

I should have mentioned in my first post that the outboard end of the coupler mounting pads and even floor ends of resin kits tend to be thicker than the rest of the casting. If this is not attended

Ben Hom writes... "Ben Hom writes- Ben, Heres a tip that comes from the military folks... Take the model and freeze it solid for a few days... Then tap the glue line with the end of you Xatco knife

This demanding requirement for proper boxcar door placement is why, by serendipity, so many locomotive turntables remain in situ and in use in so many places. With the disappearance of so many wyes,

Ben Hom writes- Well, Ben has THAT right! I have addressed this matter partially in a number of ways, depending upon whether or not I think I can get away with it: One way is to apply fitted sheet

Ben, Bending the shank does adjust the head height - together with the gladhand height. I don't like propping cars up on washers if the body is already at the right height. That's why I bend the

I have been shimming the coupler boxes to correct drooping couplers. I usually use .010 styrene sheet stock. I use the Kadee coupler gauge. Doug Brown

Oh jeez! I thought the eaves looked a little odd... Some kit box labels should inlude a "YBS" mark for "You'll Be Sorry!" Scott Pitzer ======= Scott, Lot 692-B also had the "double-Z" eaves.

I have been using Kadee #58's in their own Kadee boxes as much as possible for years now (since 58's came out) and have been doing the slight upward bend of the shank as a standard practice. I find

Andy Miller wrote: "I have found that the easiest solution to Kadees with low "gladhands" is to bend the shank slightly up or down. Many people bend the gladhand itself and Kadee even sells a tool

Clark, I have found that the easiest solution to Kadees with low "gladhands" is to bend the shank slightly up or down. Many people bend the gladhand itself and Kadee even sells a tool for this, but

Having just completed a Sunshine PE box, your comments are well taken. I too had trouble with the coupler height. eric

I didn't see it mentioned, but one thing I always do is drill the holes for the truck screws on a drill press to assure they are "plumb". In fact, I usually dig out the floors for several kits and