I am curious how these differ from such things as Microscale's "Crystal Clear" and Testers canopy cement, that all have the buttermilk smell of Elmers white glue? Bill Welch wrote: wonderful

Tony - what class(es) would these be in EsPee? Now? Yes, I do! I actually rummaged through the storage box the other night - you know the one you all have hidden away in a back corner full of

Steve, Weight is definitely an issue with flat cars. My sunshine PRR F30A is perhaps the lightest car I have ever seen and there was no way I wanted to hide any of the beautiful underbody work.

Ted Culotta wrote: "If you go to www.steamfreightcars.com and click on Prototype, then I believe "Freight cars" or something similar, there is a .pdf roster of 1937 AAR box cars (I'd be more

Al Westerfield has a "new" technology that he is using on some turn of the (20th) century inside stake coal gondolas that uses a lead filled resin casting for an under frame component that will add

I used the RC56 and have switched to the 560 with the same wonderful results. "Beckert, Shawn" <shawn.beckert@...> wrote:List, Searching the internet for information on the RC/56 canopy glue

Mike: If you go to www.steamfreightcars.com and click on Prototype, then I believe "Freight cars" or something similar, there is a .pdf roster of 1937 AAR box cars (I'd be more specific, but I am

I have searched the message archive for quite a while but cannot find the discussion of the accuracy of the Red Caboose 1937 AAR 10' box car. Can someone provide a pointer? TIA. Mike

Bruce Smith wrote: Those 40' 10" cars are the Harrimans (or Harriman follow-ons) Richard mentioned. With straight side sills, they would not be too hard to scratch. I am not aware of any in

Dear Schuyler There certainly were solid-bottom conversions (the #45000 series, 529 of them, as memory serves) from the original #44000 drop-bottom gondolas, built in the early 1920's; the 1943 ORER

List, Searching the internet for information on the RC/56 canopy glue that some people have said works well for glueing running boards and such, I found some indications that this is no longer

<snip> Thanks Richard! I did some looking in the 1943 ORER and found the following: 1943 ORER entries for Union Pacific Flat cars length number reporting marks 36' 4" 20 OWR&N 39'

I saved one version of the dates for ARR rules: Message 7534 from Jeff English on April 24, 2002. Guy Wilber wrote: And Tony Thompson replied: Excellent idea, Guy. Was there not a moderately

I've done a lot of bead blasting and never destroyed anything. I rebuilt a Lambert C&O caboose into a MP Magor built http://home.comcast.net/~jerryglow/more/Magor.html including making all the end

Yup! Thanks! Phil Buchwald

Guy Wilber wrote: Excellent idea, Guy. Was there not a moderately complete list compiled some time back? It ought to be in the archives. Tim O. seems to be our best ferret in the archive, so I'd

Baking soda works well. Baking powder will give you a nice rise, but I am not so sure about its abrasive qualities. It is a mix of soda and aluminum somthing or another. This is embarassing - I own a

Or baking soda. Or is it baking powder? I forget. -- Brian Ehni

Try aluminum oxide in a Paasche or Badger air eraser. Will do wonders, will not destroy delicate soldering work. Tom Jones III

Jerry, the surface of the L-shaped piece to which the grab wire is fastened is approximately .025" x .014-.015, with .012 wire. I'm inclined to think bead blasting would destroy it. There simply