You can use solvent cement for attaching .005" styrene to styrene without softening the edges or warping the strip. I can give you a technique which I use if interested by contacting me at

i know the use of MEK or lacquer thinner,nail polish remover,solvents,etc., in general is not the problem when bonding very thin styrene. it is the amount applied. i suggest you use a #3 fine tip

Mike, The 8 numbers applied to the currently available kits are all correct numbers in the 24000-24099 series. Accurate car numbers for these cars range from 24000-24449 (450 cars), all of which had

Dave (?) wrote: "Ben yes that is the reason why I did state that it was incorrect. As a newcomer to prototype modeling I am willing to learn." Dave, as I posted before, there's incorrect, and then

Greg, I'd be interested in this technique also. Doug Brown

wrote: HiBud,I can,t vouch for this myself but the subject came up at one of the Naperville clinics. It was agreed that MEK damaged .005 styrene. It was suggested to use lacquer thinner. Regards, Don

Ed Hawkins writes: "The currently available kits have 8 car numbers from which to choose and each kit also comes with a set of decals made by Oddballs that provides a selection of reweigh station

Tim, The kits that the MPHS/ARM accepted from InterMountain Railway Company now have all the correct parts that were originally intended, including the AAR spring-plankless trucks (same as those

Bill Navari wrote: "If painting this yourself, as you desire, best starting point would be the Branchline undecorated boxcar kit, stock #1400." I strongly disagree. The Branchline car is too tall

Apologies for all the cross-posting... The following list is a partial list of the magazines I would like to find a new home for. This list will be updated over the next week or two as new mag's are

IMO, you won't be wasting band width. I would welcome seeing the "twin XACTO blade" method described. As far as I'm concerned, modeling techniques are always welcome. Frank Greene Memphis, TN

fits against the side of the mold, perpendicular to the direction the mold opens). Thanks for that background Dennis. At http://www.masterunitdie.com/MUD_HDHStyle.htm notice the mold at the upper

Elden, If painting this yourself, as you desire, best starting point would be the Branchline undecorated boxcar kit, stock #1400. Superior doors detail part # is 140003. Bill

Dennis and Ben Thank You for your replies, Ben yes that is the reason why I did state that it was incorrect. As a newcomer to prototype modeling I am willing to learn. Dave

Bud writes: Hello, Thought you guys would be the source for advice on adding some .005" styrene riveted batten strips on a model. I thought I'd use the tried and true method of running a row of

I sent my advisory in between receipt of your two messages. Sorry. SGL

http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/el/frt/erie21800b.jpg Will get you to it, Bud. You somehow substituted a . for a / is all. Between "org" and "el" is where. SGL

Two suggestions: Make the battens from shim brass instead of .005" styrene. This provides slimmer battens (probably more accurate thickness). And you can use ACC to tack one end, line it up and

Ill try again with the Geo Ellwood link: http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/el/frt/erie21800b.jpg This should work. Bud Rindfleisch

Hi again, I recently posted a request for photos or plans/dimensions of the Erie 3 bay covered hoppers, 21800 series. I found a good side view, perfectly car center, builder's photo on Geo.