I have had a few off-list requests to describe a technique to solvent weld a .005" strip to a styrene carbody side. I have described this technique to the STMFC list once before, but I can do so

Clark, I prefer to mount the coupler box without coupler whenever possible. I then install the coupler only when all of the heavy painting is done. Sometimes this isn't possible, like with some

I will be offering kits for these within the next year. Regards, Ted Culotta Speedwitch Media 645 Tanner Marsh Road, Guilford, CT 06437 info@... www.speedwitch.com (650) 787-1912

Ditto. -- Thanks! Brian Ehni From: "Gatwood, Elden J SAD" <Elden.J.Gatwood@...> Reply-To: <STMFC@...> Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2006 10:52:20 -0500 To:

Clark, Lighten up on the paint!! <VBG> I usually install them in the building process, and these days I grit blast them and paint them along with everything else. You do need to be careful not to

Clark; I add them when I do all the underframe detailing, and then mask it before painting. This prevents me from having to mess with the box after painting, and risk screwing up the uncoupling

Which OMI 3-dome? Elden

Most resin kits advise you to add the couplers while working on the underframe, long before painting. I add the coupler boxes and trucks just before weathering. Otherwise you would have to mask the

I would like to retract any negative statements I made about the coupler mounting design for the Speedwitch SOU gondola. I evidently forgot to mention in my post that the instructions stated that if

In a triumph of optimism over experience, I have painted two OMI tank cars in Warren colors and now cannot located any decals for them. Any suggestions? On a second tank car matter, a OMI three

Bud, My choice for this would be Elmer's STIX-ALL. This is not the GLUE-ALL designed for wood, but rather an acetic acid based cement sold in a tube. It will hold anything to anything and is slow

Thanks, Ben and Bill, for the great suggestions. Would the side sills tabs and ends furnished with the RC car be good to go? I am cool with the idea of modifying the door tracks and underframe,

or your who (The so to speak. I like the fact that a ''more'' accurate model can be made either way. Thanks for your help Dave Schroedle

You can use solvent cement for attaching .005" styrene to styrene without softening the edges or warping the strip. I can give you a technique which I use if interested by contacting me at

i know the use of MEK or lacquer thinner,nail polish remover,solvents,etc., in general is not the problem when bonding very thin styrene. it is the amount applied. i suggest you use a #3 fine tip

Mike, The 8 numbers applied to the currently available kits are all correct numbers in the 24000-24099 series. Accurate car numbers for these cars range from 24000-24449 (450 cars), all of which had

Dave (?) wrote: "Ben yes that is the reason why I did state that it was incorrect. As a newcomer to prototype modeling I am willing to learn." Dave, as I posted before, there's incorrect, and then

Greg, I'd be interested in this technique also. Doug Brown

wrote: HiBud,I can,t vouch for this myself but the subject came up at one of the Naperville clinics. It was agreed that MEK damaged .005 styrene. It was suggested to use lacquer thinner. Regards, Don

Ed Hawkins writes: "The currently available kits have 8 car numbers from which to choose and each kit also comes with a set of decals made by Oddballs that provides a selection of reweigh station