I don't know how they fit into the taxonomy of "Fowler" cars, but comparing the Fowler CN cars with a CB&Q SM18 36' stock car they are very close structurally and architecturally, varying only in

I have come away from this year's Naperville gathering with a great discovery. Jim Booth, who attended this year's gathering, blew me away with his injected molded extremely flexable freight car brake

I have long savored the satisfaction of building refined wood car kits (Ambroid, Northeastern, Weaver, Suncoast, etc.), and the very best glue to use these days is white glue, either the fancy kind

I think it is. However, ore cars typically have five foot wheel base trucks, instead of the normal 5'-8" for a 70 ton truck. 70 ton features on a short w.b. gives the proportions of a truck on

--- On Tue, 11/4/08, destron@... <destron@...> wrote: <CIL 2000-3600 (or were these the Monon SU cars?)The SU cars were different cars, the 8000 series, retired by the end of 1940.  The

sure a Correct. DS wood underframe cars. The South Shore had no single sheathed cars whatsoever. 28300-28498 (even) 30 ton DS wood automobile cars built by AC&F in 1910 106600-107908 (even) 30 ton

These were DS cars with TR underframes and at least 3 different ends. There's a photo of one in an RP Cyc. Clark Propst

--- In STMFC@..., "lnerj72" <lnerj72@...> asked: I liked to use white glue when I first started building wood models 30 years ago but I found that some model railroad paints

Frank, Here's a photo of Erie 86554 to add to your collection. <http://replica.palni.edu/u?/winona,38> This was taken on the Winona [IN] Railroad in northern Indiana. Mark Plank

Whatever you use, sealing the wood before painting is absolutely necessary for long term survival, especially in humid climates. Shellac is my choice. My experience with sanding sealers is that the

I've been poking around trying to compile a list of 36' "Fowler" cars... I've gotten to a stage now where I've got a short list of definitely Fowler/Dominion cars, and a longer list of possibles (of

Well, different strokes for different folks. I detest Ambroid cement. SGL

Which "standard" car? Frank Valoczy Vancouver, BC Frank Valoczy Vancouver, BC

I had a few cars that curled up from decaling water like that. Not much fun trying to reassemble a car on the fly while also trying to make sure the decals are in the right place and not

Ed: Need help re: Amarillo Rail Museum ART reefer... Paul

I have not had that problem if dry transfers are used and the car is built with white glue.  I have had some on the layout for 35 years and they still look pretty much like they did years ago.  Some

lnerj72 wrote: Iain, I have had very good luck using a canopy glue from Pacer. I don't have any handy so I am not sure of the name, but it starts with Formula and then a number. It's very similar to

The oldest wooden models I have on the layout are about 30 years old. I built them with plain old Elmer's White Glue. The stuff holds up well over the years. However, if you apply decals to an

BTW< her's this to that's take on Weldbond: http://www.thistothat.com/glue/weldbond.shtml -- Atty Raymond G. Meyer 110 E. Main St Port Washington, WI 53074 262-284-5566 rgmeyer2@...

My best results have been with plain old white glue. CA is a bad choice for wood. If you ever have a question, this is a good site: http://www.thistothat.com/ -- Atty Raymond G. Meyer 110 E. Main