cobrapsl@... wrote: You are correct. See the video at http://www.hitechdetails.com/Hydra_Hose_How_To.html Keep us posted on how this works out.. According to the website "If using other than

CC&O 3350: Vintage Rails 5-6/99 p70. Double sheathed. L&N 4170: Johnson, "Through the Heart of the South", p145. L&N 5362: Vintage Rails 9-10/99 p48. L&N 7070: Nimke, "Connecticut River Railroads v

I would like to introduce the following new Yahoo group: RRBOOKS4SALEorTRADE RRBOOKS4SALEorTRADE is a place to list Railroad related books, timetables, etc. that you wish to sell or trade. It's also

The site on glues mentioned earlier has two suggestions: http://www.thistothat.com/cgi-bin/glue.cgi?lang=en&this=Rubber&that=Metal Pieter Roos Connecticut work will real rubber. Any thoughts here

I have added this new book to the web site. If you have the first volume on box and auto cars, this is more of the same, but tank cars. 160+ pages and $35. Here's the

BAR 9838: NEB&W Guide, 96.2 edition, p133 BAR 10045: MRR 3/99 p139 (in "State of Maine" paint!) NC&StL 15454: "Focus on Freight Cars v 1", p46 NC&StL 15337: "Steam Era Freight Cars Reference Manual

Tight Bond III glue. Paul Catapano Littlerock Subdivision Atlantic Inland Railway Co. "All it takes to start an insane asylum is a big room and the right kind of people"

Andy and List, When?I first saw them at the NMRA National show several months ago, I was also "brown away". However, after experimenting with them for the last two weeks, I have to say there?are some

Guy Wilber wrote: I photographed tank cars in the late 1980s with wood running boards, which fits with Guy's facts. Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA 2906 Forest

Thanks to everyone for the replies. Does anyone know of photos of the Roberval-Saguenay, Quebec Rly Light & Power, DW&P and Sydney & Louisburg cars? Also, whether they were Fowlers or not, I'd be

I don't know how they fit into the taxonomy of "Fowler" cars, but comparing the Fowler CN cars with a CB&Q SM18 36' stock car they are very close structurally and architecturally, varying only in

I have come away from this year's Naperville gathering with a great discovery. Jim Booth, who attended this year's gathering, blew me away with his injected molded extremely flexable freight car brake

I have long savored the satisfaction of building refined wood car kits (Ambroid, Northeastern, Weaver, Suncoast, etc.), and the very best glue to use these days is white glue, either the fancy kind

I think it is. However, ore cars typically have five foot wheel base trucks, instead of the normal 5'-8" for a 70 ton truck. 70 ton features on a short w.b. gives the proportions of a truck on

--- On Tue, 11/4/08, destron@... <destron@...> wrote: <CIL 2000-3600 (or were these the Monon SU cars?)The SU cars were different cars, the 8000 series, retired by the end of 1940.  The

sure a Correct. DS wood underframe cars. The South Shore had no single sheathed cars whatsoever. 28300-28498 (even) 30 ton DS wood automobile cars built by AC&F in 1910 106600-107908 (even) 30 ton

These were DS cars with TR underframes and at least 3 different ends. There's a photo of one in an RP Cyc. Clark Propst

--- In STMFC@..., "lnerj72" <lnerj72@...> asked: I liked to use white glue when I first started building wood models 30 years ago but I found that some model railroad paints

Frank, Here's a photo of Erie 86554 to add to your collection. <http://replica.palni.edu/u?/winona,38> This was taken on the Winona [IN] Railroad in northern Indiana. Mark Plank

Whatever you use, sealing the wood before painting is absolutely necessary for long term survival, especially in humid climates. Shellac is my choice. My experience with sanding sealers is that the