Bill; The "most common" version of the offset side twin is not the "AAR standard" version, or am I wrong? I guess we should discuss how many roads had how many of each type, shouldn't we? I thought

Not sure what Bill wants, but I want the alternate standard side car for Erie, NKP C&O. Brian J. Carlson, P.E. Cheektowaga NY

Denny, Thanks for taking the time to be detailed and explicit on your techniques. This kind of information and experience is invaluable and I for one appreciate the tips and will put your method to

The most common version did not have the ever so slight "swale" along the bottom of the side sheathing but was straight along the bottom edge of the car's side. The L&N and C&O had thousands of

Hi Ed; Thank you for the heads up on RPC Volume 19. I will be sending my remittance to you in the mail today and would like to receive my copy from you at Naperville. I look forward to seeing you

So, Bill, what's the most common version of the offset twin? Dennis

Bill The most common version? Which one is that? It seems to me there are dozens of variants -- sides, ends, hopper door mechanisms, inside length (and cubic capacity). So far we have't gotten any of

ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ Could someone please wake me when a manufacturer offers the most common version of the offset twin. InterMountain, Rapido, Tahoe, Athearn, Branchline, Walther Proto 2000, is

John, Ed Hawkins previously posted that 867000-867999 match the Kadee model. Tim O'Connor

This is a copy of my reply to the same inquiry made recently on the Passenger Car List: Three lessons from life about the useful application of ACC from tubes: 1) When puncturing the tube opening,

Gentlemen,   Here's an interesting announcement (scroll to bottom): Kadee offset hoppers in NYC.    http://www.kadee.com/ca/preorder.htm   I'm not familiar with the detail idiosyncrasies of the

Acetone is the solvent for ACC. Keep a small bottle of acetone handy and dropped your applicators, tubes, etc. in it when finished using and take them out next time you need them. Lee

I use a 4" square of 1/4" glass for a drop of ACC. When your glass is about covered you can scrape off the dried ACC with a razor blade. For an applicator I use applicators I make. A needle

Like so many others have noted, I use a straight pin with the head cut off in an X-Acto type knife made by a third party (came in a free knife set from Model Expo) which has a plastic/rubber insert

I put a drop in a piece of wood (Floor leftover) and use a toothpick for the transfer. The ACC jar stays fresh, and the glue gets where it goes. For grabs, I dip the part in the glue, then apply the

My model placed in Kansas had lots of galvanized metal buildings - barns, grain elevators, etc. I paint the models with Floquil primer as a base and then use alcohol/India ink washes to get the aged

Thanks for the reference. I downloaded the whole book by hitting the download button. Nice reference. ---------------------------------------------------------------- J. Stephen (Steve)

Tim, As I indicated in my original reply, the roof Viking roof sheets were made of galvanized 16 ga. steel. In looking at hundreds of bills of materials from AC&F and Pullman, it's evident that the

Galvanized metal is very shiny when new, but quickly oxidizes to a light gray, then darker gray as it ages. I have not seen the Intermountain model but it sounds like they tried to replicate the

I have a color photo of a C&NW Viking roofed box car and it appears that the roof was unpainted galvanized metal but has gradually oxidized (rusted). There appears to be no paint on the APEX running