Seems like I'm talking to myself here : ) I just went through the series of articles Ed Hawkins did for RMJ in 93. Ed showed photos of the CNW and SAL 40' DDs. Were they the only ones? In the

Clark Missouri Pacific #61533 seems to match the Stewart model exactly. The only JPEG's I've found that shows the upward/inward slant past the bolsters are IC alternate-standard 3bay offsets which

Depends if you want the wood to look like metal or wood and also the roughness of the wood. I found that when I did many coats with steel wool inbetween that little pieces of the steel wool end up in

Consider Testors Sanding Sealer...it is available in small bottles. John F. Cizmar

Does anyone have a .pdf copy of the B&O Modeler Vol.2 #1 from Jan/Feb 2006? My saved copy has become corrupt, and the file is no longer available singely from the B&OHS. TIA! Geoffrey

Another option is to put the wood back in the box (or the circular file) and replace it with styrene. That way you don't have to seal and sand the parts - and the resulting model will look

Mike, here's my additions / corrections: 1918 The prototype PRR H31A; production H31B's were were similar. No, not USRA, but the GTW door 1 1/2 door rebuilds after receiving new doors. Re roofing

I found an old Cannon Ball Car Shops plastic flat kit for a PS1. I thought it might make into a 10'IH car or a Double door. I've already made CNW and SAL 40' DDs. So, any leads to photos of the above

A kato shell had some problems with this method, not repairable! Mark Morgan

Thanks, everyone for your comments to update the list. Here's an updated list. I've also included the original descriptions for the models which have been updated, in case anyone wishes to comment

When I was dumping mine at shows the upper limit for built up models with kadees and metal wheels was $5 if I wanted to sell them. Priced any higher and most came home. I see it all the time at shows

I've attached a scan of the color guide page. I don't think this infringes on anything as it is not for commercial use. I have two other photos of the class but I bought them personally from Craig

Has anyone any thoughts on the value of the ''blue box''?There is a local(StL Missouri)swap meet coming up in March 2010 and I have a closet full of blue boxes and Im worndering if I have a gold

Been comparing the Stewart/Bowser model to the Accurail to see which is the best choice for the M&StL cars. The two inner end supports on the M&StL cars were angles that ran to the top of the end

Can you give us the details on what it looked like? Elden

Frank, I have always used brake fluid. Never a problem on brass or plastic......... and it is very inexpensive. Joe Lofland rdgbuff56@...> wrote: [Non-text portions of this message have

The RDG Color Guide shows a photo of a class GHw gondola. They are #s 29200 - 29229. In the caption it says they were built by the Reading. There is some doubt to that as they had PRR cast on their

Howdy!        Reading the label about application on specific sanding sealer will be the best way to determine how to thin sanding sealer.        All sanding sealers were developed

I usually use 91% alcohol to strip my cars. There are always a stubborn few that this does not work on very well. By accident I used some Floquil ELO (Easy Lift Off) that is for the removal of

Over the years I have accumulated quite a collection of wood freight car kits. My question is this: What is the best method for sealing the wood? Kit instructions usually say to give the wood a