Richard, Thank You for pointing out the Tahoe Model Works ARA Buckeye truck. I will use them on the car. Lester Breuer

What's wrong with the LED's being on in storage? If on a siding I can see that, so the dead track section is a good idea, but I have put lit markers on several brass cabooses using very small 1.5v

Hi, We were discussing Western Union cars some weeks back. An in-service photo of two of these cars appears in 'New Haven Power' by Swanberg pg 115 - Claus

....and with the Flicker-Free circuit works with DCC (which might be what Steve meant). I'm using a couple of them too and plan to add them to the rest of my caboose fleet. Rather than adding a

Works equally well AC or DC. No flicker as the capacitor stores enough power to keep the markers lit for several minutes, even if off the track. Therefore dirty track, dead frogs, or less that perfect

Steve Does this circuit work with either/both DC or DCC? How difficult to add a magnetic switch to turn the markers on/off? Tim O'Connor

If I need to just put down one, two or three small Archer rivets in a spot, I find it difficult to handle, dip and slide the very small decal section with the normal method, so I came up with another

The same approach would work equally well, of course, on Tahoe Model Works caboose trucks, both the early Bettendorf swing motion and later Barber-Bettendorf styles, which are IMHO the best HO

I used the "reply to Group" link a the bottom of the message, and it go lost. Oct 1919 ORER Series 31200-34198, XM even numbers steel underframe. ex dim 40 0, 8 9 1/2, 8 4 3/4. cu ft 2941, 80000

I prefer to use plastic trucks with stainless steel wipers purchased from Richmond Controls. They roll better and are easier to electrically isolate. I currently have them on Walthers and

Jim, Appropriate trucks ARE available in both brass and plastic for most PRR cabin cars in a number of scales, so if any of the "cabooses" you are working on are Pennsy, that should be pretty easy

Hi, I'm well started along a project of adding marker lights to a large number of cabeese. For the brass ones it is pretty simple to "isolate the trucks electrically from the frame/body and pick

From the October 1919 ORER series 31200-34198 XM Box, even numbers, (Steel Underframe) Inside 40' 0", 8' 9 1/2", 8' 4 3/4" Outside 40 4 3/4, 9 7 3/4, 12 5 3/4, 13 3 3.4, 24 8 5/8 doors 6 0, 7 8 2/3,

Paul, I'm puzzled as to why you wouldn't use Archer for this purpose? I cut single rivets off of Archer strips and use them all the time. Much easier than worrying about making rivets

Kadee (and now IM), on occasion, paints their PS2 covered hoppers in schemes that are far away from my modeling geographical area of interest but yet charm me with their paint and graphics. While I

I don't think that the 8-panel 42-foot gon(s) in N (Atlas/MiniTrix/Rivarossi/Bachmann/Model Power) were made to fit a underframe common to house cars. Roco (who tooled the first one for MiniTrix)

Paul,   Why not make gravity work for you and turn it upside down to cure?   Dennis Sautters

Tim (no last name) asked: "I was looking at the Library of Congress photo page and came across pictures of CMO boxcars 32800 and 3233x. What series where they in?" A pointer to the photo may help

Excellent! Thanks, Tony!

I was looking at the Library of Congress photo page and came across pictures of CMO boxcars 32800 and 3233x. What series where they in? Thanks for the help Tim