I just finished reading this thread and feel a need to blow my horn here a bit. I tried using the IM 10' car with their GN+ model's improved ends back in 97-98. I think a photo of my car was in RMJ

I wrote to Tangent, they said they will rerun them in several months. Norm Larkin

Schuyler, There are currently 2 for sale on E-Bay. Pierre Oliver

This may have already been mentioned but Tichy's caboose truck is "A BETTENDORF TRUCK WITH TWO LEAF SPRINGS". If not exactly correct, it may do until the right thing comes along. Jim Hayes Portland

Jim, Tichy's #3051 Caboose Truck is your best choice for now. It's plastic, with side frames and bolster molded as one piece. Brian Leppert Tahoe Model Works Carson City, NV

Hello everyone, Does anyone know if CB&Q class XM-32c box cars in the series CBQ 18400-18699 were built with Universal Rotary Type brake adjusters? The other XM-32c box cars in the class, CBQ

Hi, Thanks Richard for "the rest of the story". So the obvious question is ... does any one know of a caboose truck that is available that represents these 'conversions' as they were done on the

Hi I have made rivets and bolts by drilling a hole and putting in a piece of brass wire with the end peened over a little bit by hitting the end with something like a small hammer. you get them

Tim--Now I am confused, too. Why would you want to "to model them the old fashioned way, cutting 6" off a 10'6" box car"? Intermountain has a 10' box: the floor, sides, and inside ends. Postwar 10'

[snip] Jim, the trucks on the WM (ex-B&O) caboose are double truss self- aligning spring-plankless trucks of a design built in the late 1930s/ early 1940s by American Steel Foundries. The "ears"

31796. (I installed one a day or two back, and the pack is still on my workbench.) Al Brown, Melbourne, Fla.

That link leads us to the famous Homer Hill photo of these cars. That short box ahead of the 52469 is one of the USRA-like steel cars with an odd dreadnaught end, the 47000-series. These cars 8'7" IH

Greg I'm a bit confused -- postwar 10 foot cars can be modeled without a lot of trouble. There are Sunshine kits (NYC/C&O/CRR/DL&W/NH/KCS/ NdeM/D&H/M&StL/D&M/SP/SSW/B&O), and with Intermountain kits

Eric, that's actually a 4/4 Dreadnaught end, and the car is one of the 1,000 cars in the 47000-47699 series (AC&F) and 47700-47999 series (Magor) built in 1929-1930. These were fifty ton steel

My eye catches the DL&W car on the far left. It seems to have a 7/7 Murphy end with a gap/spacer in the middle. http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/el/frt/dlw52469alb.jpg I admit to a lack of DL&W freight

You are correct about needing the rectifier but let me add to what you said. If we use straight D.C. to operate our trains we are still using A.C. Sounds like a contradiction but lt me explain. Line

These cars caught my attention when the ELHS came out with their car, and I found this photo http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/el/frt/dlw52469alb.jpg This car is in the series immediately preceding the

Even better, try finding them on a Canadian LHS shelf. All I want is a Pennsy one. Steve Lucas.

What is the part number of these retainers? eric

The bridge-rectifier is necessary if the input is from the track. In the electronic diagram, the top line always has to be positive, and the bottom line always has to be negative. The bridge always