I would be interested in an undec product offering of these as I like to "roll my own" so-to-speak. As undec versions are on in decline, those of us who desire this should make TLT folks aware of

Half the time, I do that. And you're right, I can manage to avoid getting paint stuck in the bearing most of the time, and a little exercising takes care of it if it happens. Most people probably

KISS. Pick up coupler by the shank in left hand, pick up brush in right hand, dip tip of brush into paint, and apply. Two nanoseconds. No masking is required, and by the time the spray booth would

Mike, Brilliant idea. Thanks Gordon Spalty

Peter I read your post about CT and Paniesville and Fraiport Harbor and the Western Reserve. Let me add that area is also known as the "Fire Lands" because after the revelution that area was granted

Several months ago, I embarked on an effort to find a plausible prototype to ship phenol. In Volume 3 of the Railroad Prototpe Cyclopedia are builder's photos of Dow Chemical tank cars built by AC&F

I weight my cars in line with the NMRA RP. Track and wheels have certainly improve since the RP was established, but as the RP exists, I see no good reason to mess with it and I find the weight helps

TLT is doing the CP mini-box, and is estimating mid-2011 release. It will be all new tooling. Bill Schneider

Bob, Wilsons and Cudahy had multiple plants and branch houses around country. So their cars could be seen just about anywhere. Rath had only one plant, the one in Waterloo, but it was the largest

One can paint dozens of Kadee couplers at a time by inserting the ends into the corrugations on a straight edge of a piece of corrugated cardboard. This offers a good friction fit but not enough to

Bill Dixon wrote: ====================== True Line Trains listings of future "36' Dominion Box Car (Fowler)" retooled models are on the same page if you scroll up from the Mini Box

Bill, Thanks for the link and info. Jim Brewer Glenwood MD

I don't think I ever masked or tried to protect the shanks when airbrushing them. Any slight overspray can be burnished off. If you want to mask, how about a soda straw or piece of shrink tubing (not

Peter, I looked through a lot of SHPX tank car photos, both builder's and in service from the late-1920s to the mid-1950s, and the overwhelming majority had reporting marks and car number stencils

James F. Brewer wrote: What little is known is at: http://www.central-hobbies.com/products/tltrains.html#XM40M Bill Dixon

According to the MR email newsletter, Hobby Craft announced the CP mini box at Milwaukee; anyone have any more information about when this model will be available?  Did anyone attending the train

Hi Ed, Thanks very much for the additional information. I have some photos of SHPX cars from the late '40's and early '50's in which "SHPX" and the road number are in a "railroad roman" font. In

Hi Chuck, OK, now I'm getting a creepy feeling. I grew up in MA in a town served by the New Haven which I model. Now I live in OH two towns away from Painesville and Fairport Harbor - and commute

Pierre, I have been adding weight to cars at 75% of the NMRA recommendations. Newer truck sideframes and wheelsets are much better than the materials used when the NMRA recommendations were first

Ron I throw the couplers into an old Athearn kit box, and airbrush them 50 at a time with thin dirty rusty overspray. Usually no two are exactly alike. Once I've installed the couplers I dab on