Not railroad molds, but I think some of them might be like this http://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j00pvFECRnDOQru/Plastic-Molds-Injection-Plastic-Molds-Plastic-Mold.jpg Interesting info and pictures

Bill, The size of the mold depends on the way the model is being made. Injection cast molds are larger than resin cast molds. I make the masters for a line of resin cast models, In many cases the

Ben, the car is decaled and wash weathered. I'll give it a shot of flat finish and a little airbrush weathering after I'm finished eating.. BTW I wrote 'Figure' should be "Finger" and 'ACF' should be

Thanks Jim: I have made patterns for resin kits so I am aware of the process for creating molds for resin. I am also aware of how styrene is molded, having built tanks and planes from about the age

Hi Charlie, Right now on my workbench there are the following... a Tichy USRA boxcar, a Ribside Models 40-ft MILW boxcar, 3 CB&T ATSF Bx48s, and a Speedwitch MKT 40-ft SS boxcar. And on the rip-track

Howdy!     If any one reading this list would like real brass unions, tees or elbows, contact me off list. Thanks, Bob McCarthy

Three F&C MoPac gondolas Two ARM ART steel reefers (finishing touches) Three non-freight car models Jerry Michels

--- In STMFC@..., Anthony Thompson <thompson@...> wrote: Mike, you should try Ted Culotta's technique, using surgical > tubing to just slip over the handrail wire. It is easy to do

Bill, I know a guy who is a plastics mold designer - not for train stuff but for stuff that is similar in size (slightly larger). It is my understanding that the molds used for plastics are

Hi Charlie, Interestingly enough, given all the recent discussion, I'm working on a Westerfield kit for a MoP stock car, which happens to be the first resin stock car kit I've built. I've got the

Clark Propst wrote: "I have one side done. Need to do the other side soon because the car in on the switch list for tonight's op session." Hey, if push comes to shove, all you need to finish is the

Charlie, At this moment there's a RTR IM ATSF WE box car. I bought the car as a second (1/2 price) at the National Train Show. Has a figure smudge, heck, all my models have figure smudges ! I was

Bill Brian Leppert showed me a truck mold at Naperville -- it fit in his outstretched palm! I've seen the mold for a Branchline kit - a block of aluminum about the size of a Car Builder's

Dennis, Brian or anyone: I have never seen any photographs of the molds or tools used to produce rolling stock, trucks, etc. Would it be possible to post photographs of such items? If something can

Wondering what's on your work bench and would you recommend it to another modeler? I'm converting the Tichy USRA rebuilt boxcar to an ACL rebuilt information from Steve Hoxie and decals from Jerry

Cliff liked brass, and Dave showed me a lot of early window and NG detail part molds that are indeed brass, and still run. They are low production molds. Dave brought the toolmaking in from the dark

One of the tricks I used on my P2K and Tichy tank cars was to substitute the domes plastic grabs with Tichy. When I handled my cars at the meets I grabbed them by the dome. That worked fie until the

Hi, Very short lengths of shrink tubing make very nice HO scale pipe unions and angle fittings. Put it on 'loose' and move it to where you want it, when you want it there, and shrink around the

Ed, It's been almost 35 years since I spent an afternoon with Cliff, watching while he cut a mold for an HO window. I think I even remember him recommending which kind of brass to buy. But my memory

I mentioned that I thought tank cars were 'harder' to build than stock cars. Part of that is do to not understanding how a tank car is built. When the quality plastic products started hitting the