I make sure I "locate" the hole accurately and well with a scriber or sewing needle in a pin vice. Small amounts or stuff that can't be laid flat, I use a pin vice but when possible, I use an Albrecht

Hi Doug, I use two tools, both powered. Most often I use a Dremel Moto tool with a foot-operated speed control, as I explained in "Building resin freight car kits" in the February "Model Railroader."

Beeswax available from Caboose Hobbies, Micro Mark, elsewhere. And bees! Jerry Michels

Doug, I've been using a cordless Dremel tool for years now for drilling holes in resin and plastic. Basically I stopped breaking bits once I started using the tool. Dremel sells a small 3 jaw chuck

Doug.   I am on the higher end. Pricey, that is.  I use a Foredom for all the drilling. Higher the RPM the better. I do 30 cars at a clip and I use about 1 bit each  block of cars. Keep the drill

I gave up on trying to drill #78 and smaller holes manually a long time ago. I went through bits way to fast. A good drill press is the best solution in my opinion (other than some trouble

Sam and Tim, Thank you for your help in addressing a difficult problem with these Oriental units. Back in the mid-80s, using draw bars between the "A" and "B" units was the acceptable way of getting

If the model *doesn't* have cast dimples, I have good luck using a straight pin as a mini center punch. Al Brown, Melbourne, Fla.

Doug, I use the pin vise with the ball handle. It fits nicely in the palm, and allows good control. If the model has pre-cast dimples, and there are lot of them, I'll plug a dremel into a variac

I use a homemade drill. I took a "Holland" motor (such as A-Line still sells for an outrageous price, as I got mine for $3 apiece years ago), added a flywheel at one end, and made a brass fitting to

I have had some set backs with plastic and resin kits drilling holes for grabs and such i either brake the bit or it gets broken off in the model. Do you have any tips on how to do this? I'm using a

Mr. Hawkins thank you for the clarification. Back to wonderment on this series of cars. Sure wish there was a drawing of the ends and roofs. The body is available and a duryea underframe can be built.

I am shouting that everyone contact me off-list, and then I send two private responses back to this list. I am sorry, and will strive to be more vigilant. -Andy Carlson Ojai CA

Mark, Stan's flat-panel riveted roof was similar to but unlike the B&O M-55/A/B box cars, which had a rather unusual roof comprised of flat riveted sheets with depressed roof sheets adjacent to the

I bought about 200 pair, and I had miss-placed them for over a year. I still have over 80 pair. $2.00/pair. -Andy ________________________________ To: STMFC@... Sent: Wed, September

I apologize guys, it has been a long day! Paul Lyons

When I am sold out, my price is $12.00/kit. When in stock, I am asking $24.00. Are you selling kits? I was thinking that you were selling RTR's. -Andy ________________________________ To:

Andy, Your my competition(G). What are you selling them for? Paul

Just a couple more weeks and the Southeastern States Railroad Prototype Modelers Meet kicks off its third annual meet on Friday and Saturday the 24th and 25th of September at the beautifully Restored

I just completed stringing the 8 truss rods on the 5th of my stash of these kits (and many more to do plus some F&C hopper bottom versions). The one piece bodies are spectacular and the kits are a